yep very wise

 

I like my wife's 70 LT-1 with the Tremec TKO600 (2100RPM freeway cruise, 20MPG fuel mileage), Jeep steering box, Edelbrock water pump, Comp cams roller rocker arms, Manley connecting rods, Mahle pistons, Manley severe duty valves, Cloyes true roller timing chain, Centerofrce clutch, lightweight L-88 flywheel and Ultradyne cam I consider it a PREFECTED LT-1 Corvette. Vette has around 10K miles on it since I stopped slaving on the restoration. I consider the Vette a compilation of my 30+years of experience wrenching on Hot Rod cars and finding out what works and what doesn't.

I don't understand how people can enjoy hanging around with a bunch of "self proclaimed experts" telling them their car isn't 100% factory "correct" and they need to pay "so and so" big $$$ for proper restoration to get maximum judging points. I also enjoy driving the Vette more than cleaning it but, try my best to maintain it in a excellent condition.

I enjoy driving my C3 Corvette and I think most of the people I meet are happy to see a piece of American Muscle driving down the road.

Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCgJ1...hannel&list=UL

 

You want a better running L-48? Put a free flowing exhaust on it, then bank your $$$ for a 383 build from a competent machine ship (HINT: attend some local circle track races and talk to the front runners about where they get their engines built, that will be the shop you want to talk with.)

 

Used to feel the same way about most other motors I had.

Bottom line is the tech in parts we have to day is SO superior to the best back then.

Get yourself a decent set of heads, more modern cam etc you wouldnt believe the difference. Easy to bolt on 100hp and still be driveable. You dont have to go radical to go fast and be reliable these days. An 1/4 in stroke goes a looong way.

Back in the 80s anything over 400hp had lousy manners and still didnt run all that great.

 

"It is easier to be cruel than wise. The road to wisdom is long and difficult, so, most people just turn out to be a$$holes."


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

Just kidding Scott, no need to be all butt hurt...

 

It's just a quote concerning wisdom that I thought was funny. I didn't mean it to sound like a comeback.


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

I was facing a similar question with my car overall. The original engine was already gone. Yet the quandary was the engine as it had been replaced with a 454 built to a 468. It supposedly had 14:1 static compression and 230-260 per cylinder, and a bum clutch. I am still in the process of verifying those numbers.

My question was which way do I go with the clutch, flywheel and bell-housing that was cracked. I could have gone stock, but decided to upgrade all the way around.

I don't think that what I did took away in value from a NOM car that had been neglected for 13 years.

 

 

that's too bad about the disappointment - good, reliable power is pretty easy these days.

and my suggestion. Vortec heads (or almost any aftermarket heads), cam, headers, aluminum intake. Put you in the 400+ neighborhood and still be very driveable and can be returned back to stock for the chalk n mark folks.

 

I agree, i've got a similar set up to you and I can really throw the car around, great looks with killer performance

I have to warn my friends before we go to shows about the matching numbers guys as I don't want my friends to think I hang around with a bunch of wierdos.

Matching numbers doesn't mean much in the real world, just a con by dealers, L88, 427 tripower? yeah it matters then, not for 97% of vettes though.

If you're gonna get young blood into the hobby you need guys like us, I always have kids coming up to me drooling over the car, why? BECAUSE IT'S MODIFIED, a standard vette ain't gonna do it for the average 20 year old, it just looks like another old car that drives like an old car, the average kid has grown up with cars that drive themselves and jumping into a stock vette will be like driving a bus.

When I tell them it will keep up with most modern stuff they are surprised and when I lay two 50ft black lines down the road it leaves an impression. And maybe they'll go and buy one when they can afford it

I love Corvette's and have time for both stock and modified, each to there own, but the whole matching numbers crap has got out of hand, most people don't care and if you're thinking it's an investment then go and buy a painting or something then you don't have to lash out money on maintaining it. Cars keep you poor

These are sports cars and and they are supposed to be driven not put in the garage as an ornament or trailering it around and putting mirrors underneath it or putting 'don't touch the paintwork' signs on it because it then stops being a car and starts being something boring.

 

I agree whole heartedly with making performance mods and using home depot bolts for my 74. However, if I had a 63 split window silver with red interior (really almost any c2 or c1) I would try to keep it original. I might even buy some frame chalk .

 

I understand and appreciate people who preserve the past - but that's just not me, if it's a Corvette it needs to be carving a canyon somewhere - and doing it faster next time

 

Would it work for you if you pull the correct engine, preserve it. And drop in something that suits you? Maby a Fast Burn 385 with a cam? Pretty simple, all GM, spirited. From my point of view if it can be returned to stock no foul, even with a collectible car.

 

If I had a 63 Split window and wanted to drive it, unless it was a Z-06 I would put some disc brakes on it for performance and safety.

Just went to a car show today, beautiful 70 LT-1 roadster the owner told me the Vette scored "top flight" on first time out (according to owner.) I talked with the owner, nice guy has owned the Vette over 20 years, eventually he admitted to me, he had roller rockers on his LT-1 motor. Car was pretty AWESOME but, had weird speedo in it with MPH/KPH indications, maybe an export car? Owner thought speedo was stock until I showed him 69 Vette along side of it. I also wonder about the power steering set-up on it.

The 70 LT-1 was a nicer car than my wife's 70 LT-1 but, would I trade straight across for it.....NO! I would be paranoid driving a stock LT-1 around constantly worried that some "new citizen" would blow a stoplight and kill my car. I owned a 53K mile 1 owner 70LT-1 with full documentation, didn't like driving that Vette around much either. I'll keep my TKO600 5 speed over any Muncie any time, my 72 LT-1 had 4:11 gears and M-21 close ratio, it used to SUCK driving down the freeway getting passed by Camrys at 65MPH. Our TKO equipped 70 roadster gets right at 20MPG with the factory Holley #4555 LT-1 carb, I'm happy with my Vette, maybe not Nirvana but, close enough for me.

 

If your building a low rpm to midrange 350 all you need is 1 5/8 primary long tube headers. If you want the headers to last long and look good you need ceramic coating. Most headers you will buy use 5/16 head flanges, 16 gauge tubing, reducers with a gasket.

Headman makes a header they call the elite for your vette. It has 1/5/8primary tubes, thicker 3/8 flange, thicker 14 gauge tubing, ceramic coated, and it has ball flange at the collecter like a modern car uses in there exhaust systems.

You will most likely need a bracket from headman to mount your a/c compressor

For heads of course you could paint aluminum but a set of 180 runner iron dart heads with 64cc chambers to get rid of your current 76cc chambers to raise your compression.

Intake small engine kept at low rpms the performer edelbrock will do the job and save some weight off your engine. It will still allow you to run your factory air cleaner.

For cam you have 3.08 rear with only a three speed trans, Again you wanting torque with midrage. I would use the 262 lunati voodoo. If you want to go past midrange more you could go up one cam size but you never get anything for free extra duration moves the power band higher that has to be your choice.

keep in mind when looking at its specs on line that your current L/48 cam has only 195/205 at .050 duration with only .390/.410 lift.