power locks
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
power locks
hi everyone, i am stumpped, i got new switches and new door pigtails and i can lock and unlock the locks with a direct 12v to the actuators, but when i connected everything the right way with the new switches and wires i blow the 20A fuse. everything i can see in the doors is right and everything else on that circut works great until i hook up the look switches. any ideas?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
yea i replaced both, the passenger has a 2 wire ground connection to the door, the old ones where taking apart, so i followed the power door look wireing diagram i have, but that is different from the new pigtails i got from ecklers, i think this problem has been in my 81 a long time. i also had a fried vanity mirrror conection i found and that is on the same circut, so i removed all the burt wires and unplugged the mirror connection tonight and its still blowing the 20 A curtisy fuse
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 336
From: Texas
well all i can think of is that the wiring is cracked or grounded in the pass through going into the doors from under the dash....... if i was having this problem, i would disconnect all the connectors from the switches and actuators, undo the ground at the passenger door, pull the fuse, and start checking for grounded wires with a volt/ohm meter. i looked at a 81 elec. diagram for the door locks and its the same as my 79. good luck.
maybe.. Roger.. can help you, he is good at electrical problems.
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/tune.../index24.shtml
maybe.. Roger.. can help you, he is good at electrical problems.
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/tune.../index24.shtml
Last edited by speedreed8; Sep 20, 2012 at 09:55 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Hmmm...the schematic in that link isn't exactly right, but its close.
This is correct
You see there are 5 connections on the lock switches on this one, but not on the other one.
As stated above, disconnect the switches, check for fuse blows. Go from there. the color codes on the pigtails I got from Ecklers didn't exactly match the originals and it took me a bit to sort it out. If you hook it up according to this schematic it will work. Most likely culprit is the color code. so your switching power to ground through the passenger side switch.
This is correct
You see there are 5 connections on the lock switches on this one, but not on the other one.
As stated above, disconnect the switches, check for fuse blows. Go from there. the color codes on the pigtails I got from Ecklers didn't exactly match the originals and it took me a bit to sort it out. If you hook it up according to this schematic it will work. Most likely culprit is the color code. so your switching power to ground through the passenger side switch.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Check post #6 in this thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...oor-locks.html
Roger has the pin letters on the drawing.
The switches are the same although they are drawn different, but the connections are different on them.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...oor-locks.html
Roger has the pin letters on the drawing.
The switches are the same although they are drawn different, but the connections are different on them.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
thats the diagram i used before i bought the new pigtails, when hooked up it that way, with the old switches, noting at the drivers side, but from the pass side the lights would dim and a huge power drain. i have the pass side unplugged for now so i could put the fuse back in, its a immidiate blown fuse with them connected, i think i am keeping the 20A fuse co in business
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
That means the pigtail on the pass side is connected wrong. Ecklers probably sent you 2 of the same pigtail. if you ignore the colors on the pigtail and connect the door wire harness colors to the pin letters on Rogers drawing it will work.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 476
Likes: 37
From: Lynnwood WA
I just went through the same problem. My drivers side pig tail fell apart, so I ordered new pig tails and a new drivers switch from corvette central.
the pig tails came labeled for side, and with an explanation of what wires hook up to what harness wires. I put it all together just as instructed, not easy, because of the poor quality of the China made parts. Every time I hit either lock button it would blow the interior light fuse. I took it all out and tried it two more times. All that did was destroy two more hard to change fuses! I need to put the car in a shop to check out the work I did on the motor and trans swap, this means someone else will have to lock the car at night. Today I removed the power lock system entirely, even the switches so nobody will be confused about if a door is locked or not. The funny thing is, that without all that crap in the doors I have no more rattles and the keys works like never before, they have this wonderfully snap to them and the latches makes a positive noise locking and unlocking; Even the **** in the armrests are easy to use! If I go back to power door locks, it's going to be aftermarket with a key fob button. ChrisNY maybe you should consider this as a solution. or feel free to flame me for comitting this sacrolidge to a Corvette.
Zorro
the pig tails came labeled for side, and with an explanation of what wires hook up to what harness wires. I put it all together just as instructed, not easy, because of the poor quality of the China made parts. Every time I hit either lock button it would blow the interior light fuse. I took it all out and tried it two more times. All that did was destroy two more hard to change fuses! I need to put the car in a shop to check out the work I did on the motor and trans swap, this means someone else will have to lock the car at night. Today I removed the power lock system entirely, even the switches so nobody will be confused about if a door is locked or not. The funny thing is, that without all that crap in the doors I have no more rattles and the keys works like never before, they have this wonderfully snap to them and the latches makes a positive noise locking and unlocking; Even the **** in the armrests are easy to use! If I go back to power door locks, it's going to be aftermarket with a key fob button. ChrisNY maybe you should consider this as a solution. or feel free to flame me for comitting this sacrolidge to a Corvette.
Zorro
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Disconnect new wiring until the problem goes away. Then, add in one piece, and just one connection at a time until the problem occurs. That last connection is in the circuit which has the "problem". Be aware that the "problem" connection you just made may not be the source of the problem...it's just in the circuit with that connection.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
thanks Zorro, mine have never worked, nor the key locks, i replaced the lock cylinders last week and got the system working again. lubed up the actuators, and they workd great straight off the battery, my old wiring for the locks was molested beyond belief, but the original colors were all still there and i had power at the switches, so i figured new plugs and switches it would be good to go. i just checked the pass door look plug and the blue and orange wires were reversed, so i put them in the right order. havnt pluged the switch back in yet, i want to re check the drivers switch before i blow another fuse. i thought it was strange the new plugs had all the correct color wires but in the wrong order to wire diagram we have all used here. hopefully that will do it. if not i am really considering just powering the lock system with a new power source since i know the actuaors work and the wiring to the pass side is connected. try to isolate why its blowing the fuse. mine blows right away not when i try and use them, so i am thinking its gatta be a dead short in the lock wiring or just wrong connections.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 476
Likes: 37
From: Lynnwood WA
That is the same boat I was in. Locking the doors, I was always worried that the key would break off in the lock. I also replaced the lock cylinders, cleaned up and greased the system. When I tried the key in the drivers door, it worked great. The rod had fallen of the actuator. When I reconnected it, the new locks cylinders worked better but not enough better, I was still worried (especially if someone else was locking it) about the key breaking. The power locks worked perfectly, But while putting the door panel back on the wiring connector on the drivers door fell apart. So I took the actuators out of both doors, and can, for the first time, lock and unlock my doors, without even thinking about it. Is it the right way to fix this? NO! Is it a tremendous relief not to have to worry about locking my car? YES!
Zorro
Zorro
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 420
Likes: 3
From: deposit new york
thanks agin Six, everything is back together and working great so far, had a little bit of problem finishing everything, but eventually worked it out, when i put the wires back in the pigtail and connected it the first time everything messed up again, like it was stuck in a constant lock/unlock sequence. but unhooked everything and started again and got it all right finally. here is the link where the diagram that did the trick for me is posted. thanks again everyone 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...post1581896362
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...post1581896362