C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 10:47 AM
  #981  
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Originally Posted by Doug1
haha, ok! Miata's, really? I've driven one with all the bells and wistles, yes they will be surprised.
As I said, Mazdas provide the necessary doors to be blown off.... of course this is all fun and games - I'm not prejudice, I have friends with those smiling cars - and they look fabulous

what really irks me about them is that they are so fast, stock. One should have to work hard and spend thousands of dollars to be that fast.... not go from your hairdresser's appointment to the track to beat up on the poor Corvette. Seriously!
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 08:28 PM
  #982  
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So I checked for combustion fumes in the coolant tonight and all good there. Ugh! I have never watched a radiator flow but I think this thing is clogged. Nothing much actually coming through the thing at all. What is the flushing process and what works best on the corrosion? $300 for a new one is a little steep right now. Since the block was just rebuilt do I just need to clean up the radiator?
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #983  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
As I said, Mazdas provide the necessary doors to be blown off.... of course this is all fun and games - I'm not prejudice, I have friends with those smiling cars - and they look fabulous

what really irks me about them is that they are so fast, stock. One should have to work hard and spend thousands of dollars to be that fast.... not go from your hairdresser's appointment to the track to beat up on the poor Corvette. Seriously!
Hahaha that is some funny stuff, I don't care who you are!
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 12:00 AM
  #984  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
So I checked for combustion fumes in the coolant tonight and all good there. Ugh! I have never watched a radiator flow but I think this thing is clogged. Nothing much actually coming through the thing at all. What is the flushing process and what works best on the corrosion? $300 for a new one is a little steep right now. Since the block was just rebuilt do I just need to clean up the radiator?
With a new engine generating more heat until broken in, your radiator should be in good condition. A good radiator shop should be able to evaluate yours and clean it out if necessary. Back in the day, and maybe they still do, they could remove the end tanks and rod out the core, then solder the tanks back on if it was badly clogged.

Your heat gun can be used to try to evaluate the radiator condition. Once the engine is up to operating temperature, you can shoot the radiator at different places and see if you are getting an even temperature drop across the fins/tubes, or if you have uneven cool spots.


Pete
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 12:19 AM
  #985  
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Originally Posted by PeteZO6
With a new engine generating more heat until broken in, your radiator should be in good condition. A good radiator shop should be able to evaluate yours and clean it out if necessary. Back in the day, and maybe they still do, they could remove the end tanks and rod out the core, then solder the tanks back on if it was badly clogged.

Your heat gun can be used to try to evaluate the radiator condition. Once the engine is up to operating temperature, you can shoot the radiator at different places and see if you are getting an even temperature drop across the fins/tubes, or if you have uneven cool spots.


Pete
Thanks Pete!
I used the gun and it seemed consistent but tonight I was observing the flow from the tubes and found there was only a trickle and not coming from all of the tubes. I will have to find a radiator shop and have it checked. Any idea what rodding it would cost compared to a new one?
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 12:50 AM
  #986  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
So I checked for combustion fumes in the coolant tonight and all good there. Ugh! I have never watched a radiator flow but I think this thing is clogged. Nothing much actually coming through the thing at all. What is the flushing process and what works best on the corrosion? $300 for a new one is a little steep right now. Since the block was just rebuilt do I just need to clean up the radiator?
$100 for one that's close enough from Summit racing (and aluminum) they're a bit wide, but still fit.
... it's what I'm using in mine

or, if you still have an old guy who does radiators - have it "rodded out"... they can desolder the tanks then clean the core .... shouldn't be more than about $75 IF you still have anyone who does that (look for a/c shops, sometimes they still do radiators)

a good sign that the radiator is clogged is if the fins (as viewed through the fill) are red and fuzzy looking

so about that show car

Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; Feb 13, 2013 at 12:53 AM.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 06:33 AM
  #987  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
$100 for one that's close enough from Summit racing (and aluminum) they're a bit wide, but still fit.
... it's what I'm using in mine

or, if you still have an old guy who does radiators - have it "rodded out"... they can desolder the tanks then clean the core .... shouldn't be more than about $75 IF you still have anyone who does that (look for a/c shops, sometimes they still do radiators)

a good sign that the radiator is clogged is if the fins (as viewed through the fill) are red and fuzzy looking

so about that show car
Hahaha trust me I do not have a show car but the carriage has to be suitable for the queen! LOL
You got a part number for that radiator? Mine are more white fuzzy.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #988  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
Hahaha trust me I do not have a show car but the carriage has to be suitable for the queen! LOL
You got a part number for that radiator? Mine are more white fuzzy.
I made mine too loud for my queen

check that - the radiator is on ebay - $161 on up with free shipping.... this looked interesting
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROW-TRI-CO...d6adf7&vxp=mtr

I run electric fans on mine.... it's the only way to fly IMO

Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; Feb 13, 2013 at 06:31 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 03:03 PM
  #989  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
Well I have been trying to keep it under wraps (until fonished) but I haven't been able to drive it because 1. I have been worried about the whole hot problem and 2. I am in the middle of prepping for paint! Hahaha I was going to surprise you guys with a bunch of pix when finished.
My mom's tenant works for a top body shop here in town and saw the car and decided he wanted to paint it for me as a project. I got bumpers off, door hadles off and most everything else prepping it for paint. He is doing body work and painting it for free so I thought I better take the opportunity while it is available. We are hoping to be ready to shoot it around the first of the month.
FatCat,

What shop is painting your car?
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 03:38 PM
  #990  
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Originally Posted by jschulz30
FatCat,

What shop is painting your car?
A friend works for a local shop but we are doing this as a project at my house.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 10:06 AM
  #991  
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I need a good rattle can paint for the draw. Any thoughts?
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #992  
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what's a draw?
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 11:25 AM
  #993  
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Fatcat, you have to wait for the thermostat to open before you can see it flowing fast. If you rev the engine after its open you'll see the level drop in the radiator as its flowing, then when you let off the level will usually over flow out of the cap opening.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #994  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
what's a draw?
Dang auto spell! I meant the frame.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 01:35 PM
  #995  
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Originally Posted by hugie82
Fatcat, you have to wait for the thermostat to open before you can see it flowing fast. If you rev the engine after its open you'll see the level drop in the radiator as its flowing, then when you let off the level will usually over flow out of the cap opening.
I am going to put a new thermostat in this weekend and see what that does.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 01:57 PM
  #996  
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get POR 15 frame paint, and brush it on.... it comes out smooth - and be certain you do not get it on your skin, there is no removal process for it other than your skin wearing off.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 02:00 PM
  #997  
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy
get POR 15 frame paint, and brush it on.... it comes out smooth - and be certain you do not get it on your skin, there is no removal process for it other than your skin wearing off.
Any thoughts on where I can buy that?
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 08:51 PM
  #998  
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i love POR-15 products, its worth the money, i used their gas tank sealer on a motorcycle tank that was rusting from the inside out, two years later the inside of the tank is still like when i first sealed it AND with sitting full of gas the entire time too.

I don't what that stuff is, but it is ridiculously tough. After the leftover sealer dried in a seperate container, i couldn't even hammer and chisel it off.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 10:27 PM
  #999  
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Originally Posted by FatCat
Any thoughts on where I can buy that?
Here:
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Por-15
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 10:32 PM
  #1000  
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Originally Posted by SpartyGW
I was taking more about buying it locally instead of ordering online but thanks!
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