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Fuel pump hoses

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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 05:42 PM
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Default Fuel pump hoses

I'm getting ready to install both fuel hoses at the pump and looking for advice from those that did this job. I have the preformed hoses ready to go...no clamps yet. Seems straightforward, but....

1) Am I going to deal with a flood of gas when I disconnect the old hoses?

2) Suggestions on clamps? Spring or the old fashioned screw clamps?

'73, L82 350
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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Drain as much gas out of the tank as possible (I used a syphon hose) Raise the front of the car as high as you can as this will help prevent gas from from leaking out of the lines. Hose replacement is quite simple, you just have to eliminate gas spillage.
Good luck.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 06:26 PM
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All good advice. Oh yeah you will get gas spillage. I take a piece of hose the size of the fuel feed and the return line each about 6" long and push a wooden dowel in one end as a plug. Then when you cut off the old line from the steel feed lines from the tank quickly push on the the plugged hose. This way you can replace one side at a time from the pump and the fuel line to the carb and then quickly push on the other end removing the plugged piece. This cuts down on the amount of gas that leaks out. Oh put your clamps on the new hose before you shove it on the lnes.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Thanks...great ideas!
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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I do as JimT described. There will be a small amount of gas in the larger hose and line. Have an appropriate fire extinguisher handy and no source of ignition around the car. Maybe even do it outdoors instead of in the garage. Be safe. mike...
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 09:02 PM
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I've been using the fuel-injection style clamps for several years now on most things.
I like them better than the older gear-style, really don't trust the spring style clamps since the new hoses don't seem to be as pliable as the old ones were.
I'm sure any style is fine, just preferences


Mooser
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 09:14 PM
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No need to drain anything from the tank. You just need a box cutter knife and 3 small squeeze clamps that are strong enough to collapse the hose, and a plastic bucket (or milk container with the top cut off) to place under where you will be working {to catch any dripped fuel).

First, disconnect the battery. Either + or - side will do. Then, turn off any electrical or flame type of device in the area you will be working (water heater, furnace, etc.). Bring a fire extinguisher to the area where you can easily reach it, if needed. [Only the first two items are intended to be done, so that the third one won't be.]

Now, install one clamp about 2-3" after the metal fuel 'feed' line. This will close off the fuel from the tank. Cut the same line immediately after where the clamp is positioned with bucket underneath. There will be some fuel run out of the pump and the supply line to the carb. At worst, the fuel in the carb bowl will syphon out, so you may see 1-2 cups of fuel, max.

If you have a fuel return line back to the fuel tank (I don't think you do, as you mentioned only two hoses) you will also need to put a clamp just in front of the main metal line going back to the tank.

Once excess fuel has drained, remove the other parts of the hoses and old clamps. If you intend to reuse the clamps, remove them and place them [or new clamps] on the new hoses about 1" farther inboard than they will be when in final position. You want them alread on the hoses and with the tabs oriented so that you can grab/squeeze those clamp tabs easily with a set of pliers.

Now, install the ends of the new hoses except on the ends of the tank metal line(s) , and position clamps in final position. Next, if you have a fuel tank return line, use pliers to pinch the GM hose clamp and wiggle it back and over the retention bump on the line, and next to the squeeze clamp. Grab the new line (w/clamp) with the best hand to install it on the metal line. With the other hand, pull off the old rubber line and immediately install the new one. You will have a bit of fuel loss on this (an ounce or two, if you are quick...a little more if you're not), but that is a LOT less trouble than draining the fuel tank. Now, use pliers to put the new hose clamp in position.

Time to do the 'feed' line outlet. Just follow the same process that you just did on the fuel 'return' line--or do it the first time, if you don't have a 'return'.

Congrats. You just 'did the deed' without draining the tank. Not that bad, was it? Oh. What was the 3rd clamp for? Insurance! Just in case something started to shoot fuel and you needed another to close it off. You won't need it....but, keep it close.

Wipe up any spilt fuel (you will only have fuel in that bucket, if you did your job right); remove the other squeeze clamps; and double check all your work. Clean up the area, and get rid of the excess fuel (dump in some rocks so it will evaporate, rather than to put down a drain or sewer). Don't forget to air out your workspace before you fire up the utilities you shut down.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jan 9, 2013 at 09:18 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 09:16 PM
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I've unhooked my fuel hoses many times and never got too much gas on me. Little on the hands, but not bad. Just put a pan under the pump. I like the hoses that Mooser has but I have the originals on mine (new ones but the original style).
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 12:30 AM
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You are speaking of the rubber hoses, yes? It's a very simple job, and like stated above, very little gas will end up leaking out once you disconnect the hoses. Just have the new ones ready and switch them out one at a time directly (in a timely manner). Yes, a small splash pan is needed. With all due respect, disconnecting the battery and having a fire extinguisher at hand is a great idea, but not necessary f/ such a small job like this, unless you're going to do the job while smoking a cigarette. I'm in no way knocking safety, and please don't take it like I am, but my work area is in good order and stays clean, and I don't see the need to go overboard. I do have an extinguisher in the shop, in the center of the work area.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 12:44 AM
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I can almost guarantee that, if this process were done only one time by 1000 different C3 owners...without doing any of the safety precautions..., one of them would likely get burned [or worse]. If those odds are OK with you, don't bother being careful.

Survival of the 'fittest', I always say....
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 06:14 PM
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Perfect...thanks. I'm doing this outside with an extinguisher, just in case.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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A quick and dirty clamp is a 12" crescent wrench. Tighten the knurled wheel to clamp off the hose while you work.
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 08:14 PM
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I agree with jacking the car up. Good ol' Gravity will pull fuel thru the feed line..the fuller the tank the more the pressure! If the car is backed into a garage with back to front drain slope, you will get a flood if you just pull the hose. Ask me how I know! If you are doing it outside, try and slope the front of the car up. Even slightly, mother nature will keep the gas in the tank. Also if you have a pressurized tank, take the cap loose! Good luck!
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 11:11 PM
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A good way to stop that 'gush of fuel' is to put your thumb over the end of the fuel line....

There is less than 1 psi actual pressure on the fuel exiting the fuel line from a FULL fuel tank. 1 psi is nearly equivalent to a 30 inch 'head' of fuel in the line and the tank. If the tank is less full, then there is [proportionally] less pressure. Will 1 psi push some gasoline out of a 1/4" metal fuel line? Sure! Can you stop it? Easily.

And, you can slip over to a new rubber hose from your thumb while losing less than an ounce of fuel.
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