Fuel pump hoses
1) Am I going to deal with a flood of gas when I disconnect the old hoses?
2) Suggestions on clamps? Spring or the old fashioned screw clamps?
'73, L82 350
Good luck.
I like them better than the older gear-style, really don't trust the spring style clamps since the new hoses don't seem to be as pliable as the old ones were.
I'm sure any style is fine, just preferences

Mooser
First, disconnect the battery. Either + or - side will do. Then, turn off any electrical or flame type of device in the area you will be working (water heater, furnace, etc.). Bring a fire extinguisher to the area where you can easily reach it, if needed. [Only the first two items are intended to be done, so that the third one won't be.]
Now, install one clamp about 2-3" after the metal fuel 'feed' line. This will close off the fuel from the tank. Cut the same line immediately after where the clamp is positioned with bucket underneath. There will be some fuel run out of the pump and the supply line to the carb. At worst, the fuel in the carb bowl will syphon out, so you may see 1-2 cups of fuel, max.
If you have a fuel return line back to the fuel tank (I don't think you do, as you mentioned only two hoses) you will also need to put a clamp just in front of the main metal line going back to the tank.
Once excess fuel has drained, remove the other parts of the hoses and old clamps. If you intend to reuse the clamps, remove them and place them [or new clamps] on the new hoses about 1" farther inboard than they will be when in final position. You want them alread on the hoses and with the tabs oriented so that you can grab/squeeze those clamp tabs easily with a set of pliers.
Now, install the ends of the new hoses except on the ends of the tank metal line(s) , and position clamps in final position. Next, if you have a fuel tank return line, use pliers to pinch the GM hose clamp and wiggle it back and over the retention bump on the line, and next to the squeeze clamp. Grab the new line (w/clamp) with the best hand to install it on the metal line. With the other hand, pull off the old rubber line and immediately install the new one. You will have a bit of fuel loss on this (an ounce or two, if you are quick...a little more if you're not), but that is a LOT less trouble than draining the fuel tank. Now, use pliers to put the new hose clamp in position.
Time to do the 'feed' line outlet. Just follow the same process that you just did on the fuel 'return' line--or do it the first time, if you don't have a 'return'.
Congrats. You just 'did the deed' without draining the tank. Not that bad, was it? Oh. What was the 3rd clamp for? Insurance! Just in case something started to shoot fuel and you needed another to close it off. You won't need it....but, keep it close.

Wipe up any spilt fuel (you will only have fuel in that bucket, if you did your job right); remove the other squeeze clamps; and double check all your work. Clean up the area, and get rid of the excess fuel (dump in some rocks so it will evaporate, rather than to put down a drain or sewer). Don't forget to air out your workspace before you fire up the utilities you shut down.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jan 9, 2013 at 09:18 PM.
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Survival of the 'fittest', I always say....


If you are doing it outside, try and slope the front of the car up. Even slightly, mother nature will keep the gas in the tank.
There is less than 1 psi actual pressure on the fuel exiting the fuel line from a FULL fuel tank. 1 psi is nearly equivalent to a 30 inch 'head' of fuel in the line and the tank. If the tank is less full, then there is [proportionally] less pressure. Will 1 psi push some gasoline out of a 1/4" metal fuel line? Sure! Can you stop it? Easily.
And, you can slip over to a new rubber hose from your thumb while losing less than an ounce of fuel.
















