Power steering valve - spring order
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Power steering valve - spring order
Putting my steering valve back together (basic clean and inspect) and noticed the one area seems backwards to the manual and the way I'd expect.
Found a thread and this seems to match what I was expecting
The smaller spool (2nd one from left)
c-clip retainer
larger spring
seal retainer
seal
flat washer
The way it was on when I took it apart
c-clip
seal and retainer
flat washer
spring
Just looking for anyone just verify before I button this up?
Thanks
Mooser
(sometimes I wonder how this car every moved)
Found a thread and this seems to match what I was expecting
The smaller spool (2nd one from left)
c-clip retainer
larger spring
seal retainer
seal
flat washer
The way it was on when I took it apart
c-clip
seal and retainer
flat washer
spring
Just looking for anyone just verify before I button this up?
Thanks
Mooser
(sometimes I wonder how this car every moved)
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Send a PM to Jim_Shea. He is the resident expert on these matters; he worked at Saginaw Steering for years and knows this stuff inside and out. He also has lots of documentation on rebuilding the steering components. I would not put it back together without getting the correct info from him.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Got it all back together correctly (Jims' papers also explained that the o-ring in the manual isn't there, that helps)
Does anyone know how hard it should be to activate the valve?
I'm guessing you shouldn't be able to really move the ball-stud by hand based on the springs and how much resistance there must be on the car.
Just curious I guess
Mooser
Does anyone know how hard it should be to activate the valve?
I'm guessing you shouldn't be able to really move the ball-stud by hand based on the springs and how much resistance there must be on the car.
Just curious I guess
Mooser
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I used the C-central kit. (minor kit 562337 basically new seals since everything else seemed fine)
All in, less than 1/2 hour (minus all the research time)
Mooser
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,413
Likes: 59
From: Emerald Isle NC
CSSB has a good tutorial on PS valve rebuild on their website. It's what I used on mine.
My valve was pretty stiff after the rebuild, and I wondered if I had done it right too. Installed it, and it worked fine.
Hardest part of rebuild? Getting the two halves pressed back together without tearing your work up!
Carter
My valve was pretty stiff after the rebuild, and I wondered if I had done it right too. Installed it, and it worked fine.
Hardest part of rebuild? Getting the two halves pressed back together without tearing your work up!
Carter
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
CSSB has a good tutorial on PS valve rebuild on their website. It's what I used on mine.
My valve was pretty stiff after the rebuild, and I wondered if I had done it right too. Installed it, and it worked fine.
Hardest part of rebuild? Getting the two halves pressed back together without tearing your work up!
Carter
My valve was pretty stiff after the rebuild, and I wondered if I had done it right too. Installed it, and it worked fine.
Hardest part of rebuild? Getting the two halves pressed back together without tearing your work up!
Carter
After fighting with it a few times I polished the chamfer leading into the bore and made sure the transition was extra smooth. Lots of jelly on the seal and fingers crossed it went together nicely
Mooser