hei question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
hei question
installing hei on my 74. to get the full 12v i was gunna run a wire to ign on fuse panel but it is occupied by a black and pink wire. can i just scotchlok into this? it already has was appears to be a factory splice of a male connector on it.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 673
Likes: 2
From: Melbourne Victoria
Hi nomomopars,
(On my 74) I found 12v for my HEI on the seatbelt interlock bypass (If you still have it).
See link if you don't know what I'm talking about.
It worked for me PLUS it's close to the dizzy- so you can use shorter wires.
Cheers
,
Gav
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-firewall.html
(On my 74) I found 12v for my HEI on the seatbelt interlock bypass (If you still have it).
See link if you don't know what I'm talking about.
It worked for me PLUS it's close to the dizzy- so you can use shorter wires.
Cheers
,Gav
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-firewall.html
Last edited by thegavel; Mar 15, 2013 at 10:11 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
I have a 74 also and happily made the same HEI conversion. If the wire you are holding is black with pink letters that say "Resistor" (or something to that effect" then that is the wire you are trying to replace.
Its been a long time since I did this but it went something like this...
I followed the resistor wire back to the fuse block bulk head connector. This is where I get fuzzy if it was a male of female connector, but went like this. I used a soldering iron to heat up the connector in the plastic bulk head connector and it realesed from the plastic. the heat made it slide out easy.
Then I got a new wire with the same type connector installed on the end and held a lighter to the connector to get it nice and hot. I slid right into the place of the old connector and cooled into place nicely.
Its just an idea. I know its not very clear but if you follow that resistor wire to its end it should make a little more sense. You have probably already found a MUCH easier way to do this...
Have fun.
Its been a long time since I did this but it went something like this...
I followed the resistor wire back to the fuse block bulk head connector. This is where I get fuzzy if it was a male of female connector, but went like this. I used a soldering iron to heat up the connector in the plastic bulk head connector and it realesed from the plastic. the heat made it slide out easy.
Then I got a new wire with the same type connector installed on the end and held a lighter to the connector to get it nice and hot. I slid right into the place of the old connector and cooled into place nicely.
Its just an idea. I know its not very clear but if you follow that resistor wire to its end it should make a little more sense. You have probably already found a MUCH easier way to do this...
Have fun.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Hi nomomopars,
(On my 74) I found 12v for my HEI on the seatbelt interlock bypass (If you still have it).
See link if you don't know what I'm talking about.
It worked for me PLUS it's close to the dizzy- so you can use shorter wires.
Cheers,
Gav
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-firewall.html
(On my 74) I found 12v for my HEI on the seatbelt interlock bypass (If you still have it).
See link if you don't know what I'm talking about.
It worked for me PLUS it's close to the dizzy- so you can use shorter wires.
Cheers
,Gav
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-firewall.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
I have a 74 also and happily made the same HEI conversion. If the wire you are holding is black with pink letters that say "Resistor" (or something to that effect" then that is the wire you are trying to replace.
Its been a long time since I did this but it went something like this...
I followed the resistor wire back to the fuse block bulk head connector. This is where I get fuzzy if it was a male of female connector, but went like this. I used a soldering iron to heat up the connector in the plastic bulk head connector and it realesed from the plastic. the heat made it slide out easy.
Then I got a new wire with the same type connector installed on the end and held a lighter to the connector to get it nice and hot. I slid right into the place of the old connector and cooled into place nicely.
Its just an idea. I know its not very clear but if you follow that resistor wire to its end it should make a little more sense. You have probably already found a MUCH easier way to do this...
Have fun.
Its been a long time since I did this but it went something like this...
I followed the resistor wire back to the fuse block bulk head connector. This is where I get fuzzy if it was a male of female connector, but went like this. I used a soldering iron to heat up the connector in the plastic bulk head connector and it realesed from the plastic. the heat made it slide out easy.
Then I got a new wire with the same type connector installed on the end and held a lighter to the connector to get it nice and hot. I slid right into the place of the old connector and cooled into place nicely.
Its just an idea. I know its not very clear but if you follow that resistor wire to its end it should make a little more sense. You have probably already found a MUCH easier way to do this...
Have fun.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 42
From: Austin Texas
I am sorry if I confused the issue. Yes, sounds like you are working with wires under the dash. I was proposing another option that involved replacing the original resistor wire with a full 12v capable wire.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
I wouldn't use the power window wire - when you use the power window, the performance of your motor will go down (and possibly shut the engine off). Not to mention, the power windows don't operate when the ignition is in the "start" position... if you wire your distributor to that wire, your car won't start (it might if the engine is still spinning when you release the key... trust me, it's an annoying diagnosis the first time it happens).
Replace the original resistor wire with a non-resistor wire. Otherwise, there is an port on the fuse panel that is hot at all the right times.. IIRC it's the top open plug on the fuse block (at least it is on my 77 panel).
Replace the original resistor wire with a non-resistor wire. Otherwise, there is an port on the fuse panel that is hot at all the right times.. IIRC it's the top open plug on the fuse block (at least it is on my 77 panel).
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
I am in the process of doing a complete rewire with HEI upgrade.
I have all new harnesses and replacing the resistor wire would be nice. However, I am scared to use heat for fear of warping the connector block.
What about using the Alternator (pin 2) 20ga brown Ign On wire?
Would this provide enough power for both?
I have all new harnesses and replacing the resistor wire would be nice. However, I am scared to use heat for fear of warping the connector block.
What about using the Alternator (pin 2) 20ga brown Ign On wire?
Would this provide enough power for both?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 188
From: Wabasha Mn
What you could do is use a relay mounted in the engine compartment and pull a full 12 volts from back of the alternator for your "power in " (fused) relay wire and the power out side of the relay going to the HEI. Then use one of the other smaller relay wires as the trigger wire and run that to your brown wire location or any other ignition on source. The other wire on the relay goes to a good ground. Always nice to have a clean 12volt source when dealing with old wiring and it does not take much voltage to trigger the relay, only about 8 volts if I recall.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
What you could do is use a relay mounted in the engine compartment and pull a full 12 volts from back of the alternator for your "power in " (fused) relay wire and the power out side of the relay going to the HEI. Then use one of the other smaller relay wires as the trigger wire and run that to your brown wire location or any other ignition on source. The other wire on the relay goes to a good ground. Always nice to have a clean 12volt source when dealing with old wiring and it does not take much voltage to trigger the relay, only about 8 volts if I recall.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Just use the same wire (the resistor wire) that goes to the coil. BUT, tap into it near the fuse block and run another lenth of #14 or #12 awg wire up to the coil. That will be the new "12vdc feed wire". Wind up the unused portion of the 'resistor wire', cap off the open end of it, and tie-wrap it up somewhere low on the firewall. Then it will be there if you ever decide (or need) to wire it like the factory did.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
In the center of the firewall connector is a bolt, loosen the bolt and the whole connector will come off, then you can release the terminal and reinsert one with the non resister wire. Here is what the connector looks like, just push the barb over and pull it out.
Item picture
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121020621279...84.m1423.l2649
Item picture
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121020621279...84.m1423.l2649
