When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
NEVER use ZDDP additives. Most major oil companies say to never add anything to their oil. And they are 100% correct. I have tested ZDDPlus and Edelbrock's Zinc additive, in 3 different oils each. And in every case, they ruined each oil's carefully balanced additive package and significantly reduced their "Wear Protection" capability, compared to their capability BEFORE anything was added. Always use oil just as it comes out of the bottle.
No argument intended. Please elaborate about your testing of the additives. I have never thought Eldebrock would sell snake oil so I am very interested in your claim of it ruining the additive package. If it does I sure don't want to use it. Also in my previous post I was thinking about NSL oils when I referred to oil additive package. I realized my error and see you caught that for me. Thanks
I understand oil thread is not an exact science, I give you more info: I've a crate engine Goodwrench/Targetmaster Gen I Small Block, I have about 20k miles on it... they suggested to use 20w50 motor oil. Consider I rarely use the car when I'm below 40F
Last edited by Iron_dog; Mar 22, 2013 at 04:50 AM.
High CR -> thick oil? That makes no sense at all. High power, high rpm endurance motors can benefit from a thicker oil such as 10W-40. Some new cars specify 10W-60 (BMW E46 M3) or 5W-50 (Ford Boss 302).
A 20W-50 oil risks startup damage unless the car is never started in anything much below room temp.
10W-30 is a good compromise viscosity. Hard to go wrong with it unless you live in a very cold climate where you'd want a 5W-30 or even 0W-30.
A good compromise is the Mobil 1 15W-50-Excellent viscosity flow at colder temperatures and superior high temperature protection AND the correct amount of ZDDP-1,200 PPM. Really has so much going for it plus a great price at Walmart for 5 Qt container-$25 BUT NOT a true synthetic in the USA-Group III highly refined dino oil.
The reason that Mobil does not make their 0W-40/5W-50/10W-60 readily available in the USA is that these grades are TRUE synthetic Group IV oils, and thus much more expensive than their mass market grades-5W-30/10W-30 etc-Group III dino oil.
True synthetics like Mobil 1 0W-40 will flow like water at 0 degrees unlike a dino oil 5W-30 which will flow like molasses! If you use a true synthetic, start up concerns will be nil. I no longer use Mobil 1 5W-30 in my 10 Z06-0W-40 Mobil 1 like the Z06's in Europe and around the rest of the world outside of the USA.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Mar 22, 2013 at 07:49 AM.
True synthetics like Mobil 1 0W-40 will flow like water at 0 degrees unlike a dino oil 5W-30 which will flow like molasses! If you use a true synthetic, start up concerns will be nil. I no longer use Mobil 1 5W-30 in my 10 Z06-0W-40 Mobil 1 like the Z06's in Europe and around the rest of the world outside of the USA.
Good point. I might switch from M1 10W-30 to M1 0W-40 next oil change. NAPA has all M1 at the same price, even 0W-40 and 5W-50. They put it on sale for $5.99 a couple times a year so it's not really much more than 10W-30 at wally mart. I have a roller cam so ZDDP is not important to me.
If I check K&N website they point to 2002 one for my engine/year, which are the benefits to have more capacity? thanks
their site will always point you to the stock equivilant. The HP-3002 would have a greater filtration area and allow slightly more oil to be added to achieve the proper oil level in the pan.
I understand oil thread is not an exact science, I give you more info: I've a crate engine Goodwrench/Targetmaster Gen I Small Block, I have about 20k miles on it... they suggested to use 20w50 motor oil. Consider I rarely use the car when I'm below 40F
Although your exact motor is not longer available, this is a close relative:
I have 10W30 in the crankcase of my recently rebuilt smallblock. The pressure gauge, on a cold start, over 1500 RPM, reads about 80 psi. After maybe ten minutes of operation, it drops down to about 60 psi, and stays there.
Would I be better off using 5W30 oil?
To answer your origional question, if you want to run a big filter, the medium truck filter fits the smallblock as long as you are not running headers. It's the NAPA/ Wix 1794. It has much more filtering area than the shorter filters, and probably will never go into bypass mode. You will be filtering 100% of the oil 100% of the time.
Last edited by gcusmano74; Mar 23, 2013 at 05:11 PM.
I had a 468 solid roller BBC built by a local engine builder and when I mentioned running 10W30, he said to run 20W50 only. I'm in Florida, so running at 40 degrees or 0 degrees isn't a concern. Warmed up, the oil pressure is about 65 psi. What would be downside or advantage to running 10W30 is the engine "is built for 20W50"?
Maybe I got two Old School builders in a row, but the last guy was exactly the same...run 20W50. Previous engine was a HR 427.