I am swapping out my stock 350cid with a 383cid 405hp/450 torque from Blueprint engines (Summit Racing) and am running a new 700R4 from Monster Trans. I have a couple questions...Has anyone heard anything bad about Blueprint Engines? And when I install the motor, can I use my stock radiator if I have it cleaned, rodded and checked? I don't want to run hot if I need a bigger radiator.
I am trying to follow what Fishslayer did a few years back. Seemed to work out real good for him.

Thanks, Brad

 

The stock rad is a 3 core and in a 1980 unlike older c-3's there is plenty of air flow to keep the motor cool because the snout was designed to aid air flow and this is an advantage in my opinion .

I have no info on Blueprint Engines and the way to get some is google there name with "reviews" add phrases like "bad reviews" to find info on them. Are you sure you have the power listed right more tq then hp

 

On my 81, I went with an electric fan instead of the mechanical. The engine stays much clooler at idle now and is alot quieter. I really never had any issue at cruise or high rpm. The noise from a mechanical is too much for me to handle now. I used an electric fan from a Mustang. $50 at the junk yard. Al

 

I ran the stock radiator for some time. No issues. it developed another leak and i replaced. I never had cooling issues with the old one, till all of the fluid ran out of the crack!! I have 383 stroker in mine.

 

brad1964,

I feel you using the factory radiator should work. You might have to use a fan blowing into the radiator area during cam break-in procedure. I usually do this regardless of horsepower increase or not. I do it just to be "safe"...while keeping an eye on my aftermarket temp gauge which is very accurate.

For whatever it is worth:
Also make sure your foam seals between the radiator support and radiator are in place so the fan mounted on your water pump can pull air through the radiator. These foam seals become much more important when you are actually driving so air does not blow around the radiator...and causes the air to pass through the core. Also if you plan on getting rid of the factory fresh air intake system that attaches on top of your core support...you might want to consider installing a foam seal between the hood and upper radiator support to seal it off so little to no air can go up and over the top of the radiator support.

One other thing to consider if you have not already...so I apologize if you have considered this.

When I put much higher horsepower engines in cars that did not have them available during its assembly. I make sure that the way that your universal joints attach to your rear differential is thought out well. In earlier cast iron differentials the half shafts and universal joints were attached much stouter than what you car has now. Even in the 1980-1982 Corvettes the side yokes coming out of the differential are different from an automatic car versus a manual car. The bolts are much larger in a manual car versus that of a automatic car. I have replaced the side yokes with the manual design...and then (depending on the HP/torque increase) I have gone in and removed the rear wheel bearing flange and replaced it with a 1963-1979 design. I use ONLY Spicer U-joints with NO grease fittings. But that is just me.

Sound like you are going to have one heck of a ride when completed.

DUB

 

the '80-'82 3 core radiators flowed so well with the new style nose, no 4 core option was available those years

 

I use a 17" plastic 6 blade from summit with the stock shroud.if the intake allows run cooling lines from the back of the intake to the top of the water pump.use a thermostat housing with a radiator cap on it ,it become the highest point of the cooling system.summit sells them.

 

Any one with an 80 to 82 will have none of the traditional cooling issues you here about corvettes , You do not need a different radiator or electric fans , keep it stock . I had a cracked neck and just put in a new 3 core replacement that cost me shipped to my door 172.00 from advanced auto. And my motor is no where close to stock .

 

I swapped a 383 into my 1980 several thousand miles ago. I haven't had any problems with overheating. I didn't clean, rod, or even remove the rad when I did the swap. I drove it on 100+ degree days last summer and it never even offered to overheat. I have the TH350 so, without OD, I am running higher RPMs than you would be at the same cruising speed. FYI, I haven't gotten the A/C working yet so that may be an additional consideration.

 

Brad,

Thank you for your interest in BluePrint Engines! If you have any specific questions on any of the engines that we offer please let me know and I will be happy to help.

Thanks,

Andrew Obermeier
BluePrint Engines
Product Specialist
1.800.483.4263 ext. # 138
andrew@blueprintengines.com

 

Thanks for all the responses! I think I will use my stock set up with the radiator and fan as suggested. I know lots of you have used the 383 stroker and gone thru this before. I have beefed up the rearend with 3.73 gears, stout U-joints (w/o grease fittings). I will need to have a new stout driveshaft made approx. 3" shorter to work with the 700R4. When I pull the motor/tranny, can I pull them at the same time with my engine hoist using the loops on the intake manifold or should I use bolts on the corners of the block to be more cautious and make sure the motor doesn't fall?

 

Andrew, I will give you a call and talk to you about a few things I am looking for.

 

Which is better? A one piece seal or 2 piece seal?