Bee Jay's VBP A Arm install
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 289
From: Spring Park MN
It was my impression that the performance benefit of additional caster is that the outside tire in a corner has additional negative camber while the wheel is turned. That enables a touch better grip while cornering. IIRC, the stock C3 geometry is pretty poor for camber on a tight (autocross) corner.
I don't recall any return-to-center complaints with the stock caster setting when I had the original suspension.
I don't recall any return-to-center complaints with the stock caster setting when I had the original suspension.
Last edited by v2racing; May 20, 2013 at 06:34 PM. Reason: caster!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,961
Likes: 573
From: Lompoc, CA. Santa Barbara County
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 698
Likes: 8
From: Stockholm Sweden
I run the VBP transverse fiber leaf in the front, but I run the complete kit with the lower control arms as well.
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...t-1963-82.html
The lower control arms are working well, except for the bad quality ball joints that should be changed prior to any use.
I went for the transverse spring kit to get the adjustable rideheight and adjustable springrate and I am very happy with the function of the kit.
Sorry, no answer to your question.
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...t-1963-82.html
The lower control arms are working well, except for the bad quality ball joints that should be changed prior to any use.
I went for the transverse spring kit to get the adjustable rideheight and adjustable springrate and I am very happy with the function of the kit.
Sorry, no answer to your question.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 351
Likes: 5
From: Clearwater FL
Glad I saw this, this changes some of my thoughts about those A-Arms. Ricky, who did you end up purchasing your replacement uppers from, if I may ask?
I too had experienced a delay in ordering from VBandP where they told me in person something would be ready in a week and it actually turned into 3.
Bee Jay, the monospring should be lighter than the coil overs in the long run for weight loss.
I too had experienced a delay in ordering from VBandP where they told me in person something would be ready in a week and it actually turned into 3.
Bee Jay, the monospring should be lighter than the coil overs in the long run for weight loss.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 955
Likes: 50
From: Jersey Shore
If you are returning the VB&P arms, check these out...
Delrin bushings, aluminum adjustment sleeves, chromoly cross shafts and Howe racing balljoints. The adjustability is endless and very easy to change when fine tuning at the track or auto-x! They are SPC arms from http://scandc.com
Delrin bushings, aluminum adjustment sleeves, chromoly cross shafts and Howe racing balljoints. The adjustability is endless and very easy to change when fine tuning at the track or auto-x! They are SPC arms from http://scandc.com
Last edited by vette427-sbc; May 19, 2013 at 12:13 PM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 351
Likes: 5
From: Clearwater FL
At the price point, that is even better than VBanP and you're only spending a few dollars more, those look amazing! And I'm assuming they preform well?
http://scandc.com/new/node/66
http://scandc.com/new/node/66
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,877
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
BeeJay-
Have you looked at the Vansteel ones. Pricey- but from guys who run them on the track really seem to like them. Have sets for stock springs and shocks and coilovers or semi coilovers.
Have you looked at the Vansteel ones. Pricey- but from guys who run them on the track really seem to like them. Have sets for stock springs and shocks and coilovers or semi coilovers.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,961
Likes: 573
From: Lompoc, CA. Santa Barbara County
They're in. I love working on this car, it's my hobby, but sometimes it's a Pain In The ***. I hope these work out. I need to get an alignment befor I can get a driving impression.
Last edited by Bee Jay; May 20, 2013 at 12:13 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
I like the Van Steel front coilover setup but in 2010 I wasn't sure which way MY economy was going. I think there's an opportunity to drill some lightening holes but I was more worried about strength. The QA-1 semi-coilover is a nice package.
The coilover shock uses the same holes as a regular shock but the mounting bolts are bigger, requiring the captured nuts to be removed and the mounting holes enlarged. Easy job but there isn't much metal left and the weight of the front end is focused on that shock mount.
I made a bridge out of a piece of 1" square tubing.
I think it's probably strong enough just bolted in place but I welded it in.
Paint, new ball joints and bushings and it's done.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 698
Likes: 8
From: Stockholm Sweden
I have so far only tested those on the street but the coming weekend they will taste a bit of track.
I am actually going to get the alignment done today.
//Ricky.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,961
Likes: 573
From: Lompoc, CA. Santa Barbara County
Bee Jay
Pro
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 650
Likes: 1
Bee Jay,
See my solution below for this. I experienced the same frustration installing those same A-Arms.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...trol-arms.html
I found the bushings in the above thread at PepBoys.
RickyBerg,
I'm nowhere near your level of track driving and I'm not too worried about these A-Arms for an occasional North GA mtn run, but I hate to hear these A-Arms are sub par for track and have this design flaw. I will share another issue that I encountered with these A-Arms that scared me quite a bit. Bee Jay and anyone else who installs these please make sure that you tighten the bushing bolts thoroughly and maybe a little Loctite wouldn't hurt either. I made sure to tighten them upon reassembly and gave them a good inspection after being on the road for a bit, but over time the bolts loosened. I only noticed because the car started handling funny. Glad I checked. The bushing slid out over a half inch as the bolt backed out. If anyone has a fix for the issue RickyBerg has discovered, please feel free to share.
Thanks
Last edited by brando1118; May 20, 2013 at 02:57 PM.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
Bee Jay,
I don't know if this is a solution but It's almost free. I made a washer to slide into the space between the shoulder on the cross-shaft and the bushing.
Unless you threw out the old control arm, you already have the necessary washer on the end of the stock cross-shaft. I drilled out the hole (with a Harbor Freight step-bit) to 7/8" and cut through to the hole with a hacksaw.
Obviously I have more to do. I'm going to disassemble the arm, drill out another washer and slide it on one side of the cross-shaft. Then I re-assemble the arm and install the clip-style washer. I also plan to make a retainer out of the piece I cut out of the washer. I'll tack weld a small bar to it with a couple of holes. The legs of my clip-style washer will have corresponding holes that I'll tap. A couple of hardened screws and some Loctite and hopefully it'll be good to do.
If it's a complete failure, I'll bite the bullet and buy the other control arms.
I don't know if this is a solution but It's almost free. I made a washer to slide into the space between the shoulder on the cross-shaft and the bushing.
Unless you threw out the old control arm, you already have the necessary washer on the end of the stock cross-shaft. I drilled out the hole (with a Harbor Freight step-bit) to 7/8" and cut through to the hole with a hacksaw.
Obviously I have more to do. I'm going to disassemble the arm, drill out another washer and slide it on one side of the cross-shaft. Then I re-assemble the arm and install the clip-style washer. I also plan to make a retainer out of the piece I cut out of the washer. I'll tack weld a small bar to it with a couple of holes. The legs of my clip-style washer will have corresponding holes that I'll tap. A couple of hardened screws and some Loctite and hopefully it'll be good to do.
If it's a complete failure, I'll bite the bullet and buy the other control arms.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 698
Likes: 8
From: Stockholm Sweden
But they choose to take your money and reward you with a crap product.
For me its not so much about the crap product (all companies can be unfortunate with a product).
Its about NOT responding and sort out their customers problems with their crap products!
I don't do business with that sort of companies and that's the reason I DONT shop at VBP any more.
VBP have had all possibilities to respond to my mails and to my phone calls, they also had all chances to respond to/at this thread but chose not to do so.
The result is that You, me and others end up with possibly dangerous parts that definitely weakens your car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 289
From: Spring Park MN
I sat down and studied these VB&P arms and the C3 geometry and I believe I have come up with a fix that will also help handling.
I am going to make new cross shafts out of 7075 aluminum (I have plenty of it already) with a different mounting style for the bushings. They will be firmly supported inside and out. I will lower the arms pivot point and in doing so will lower the roll center and change the camber curve in much the same way a longer ball joint would do. I have to trig it out first, but I think this is the way to go.
Triangulating the arms would require stripping the powder coat and redoing it. I can machine these up myself with virtually no cost involved. I should be able to do it rather quickly after I make up my blueprints.
Suspension and steering guys, what do you think?
I am going to make new cross shafts out of 7075 aluminum (I have plenty of it already) with a different mounting style for the bushings. They will be firmly supported inside and out. I will lower the arms pivot point and in doing so will lower the roll center and change the camber curve in much the same way a longer ball joint would do. I have to trig it out first, but I think this is the way to go.
Triangulating the arms would require stripping the powder coat and redoing it. I can machine these up myself with virtually no cost involved. I should be able to do it rather quickly after I make up my blueprints.
Suspension and steering guys, what do you think?