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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 11:27 AM
  #81  
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So you suggest just picking up the 2101 performer intake asap and putting it on right now no matter what? Whats the benefit of it over stock? I read that the stock intake and carb are good for 400hp im pretty sure. Or maybe they said they just dont need to be replaced.
I would agree with scotty, put on the 2101 now not later. The stock iron intake has pretty uneven and low flow characteristics and dissipates heat more slowly and heats up more slowly than an aluminum intake. I haven't been able to find any flow data on the 2101 but can pretty much guarantee it's better than original L-48 intake.
Only problem I have with the 2101 and other after market similar intakes is in stock form they have no oil splash guard to keep hot valley oil from directly contacting the aluminum surface leading to higher intake tract temps than could be had if it had one.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 11:32 AM
  #82  
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ok well if im gonna have new heads, cam, intake, headers, valve covers, and air filter. Mine as well get a new carb. Just do everything. What carb would you guys suggest?

3 speed turbo350 automatic
2.08 rear gear
stock convertor
l48

If you need any other info to pick a carb let me know! thanks
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 12:20 PM
  #83  
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Whatever carb you get, make sure its got vacuum secondaries.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 01:01 PM
  #84  
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hopefully you mean 3.08 rear end...
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 01:13 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
ok well if im gonna have new heads, cam, intake, headers, valve covers, and air filter. Mine as well get a new carb. Just do everything. What carb would you guys suggest?

3 speed turbo350 automatic
2.08 rear gear
stock convertor
l48

If you need any other info to pick a carb let me know! thanks
Your Q-jet is a great street carb, give a re-build, and use it.

Scott
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 01:18 PM
  #86  
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I have my original Q-jet. Rebuilt and modded by me via Cliff Ruggles' book. Runs great. Kinda depends on your level of determination if you want to go that route or not. It took some time and effort to get it running just right, in the end it was worth it however.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 01:18 PM
  #87  
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alright lol thanks guys. The order ill do everything is

1)intake manifold and ss sleeve kit
2)headers and straight pipe
3) top end
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:29 PM
  #88  
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I read I regular intake manifold will work with vortex heads but the air/fuel chambers won't line up well between the intake and heads and you would lose performance. Still I read about others running the setup in a pinch so I'm guessing the bolt holes do line up or most intakes like mine have plugs to shift position. Of the bolt holes slightly.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #89  
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An Edelbrock 2101 is slightly better than stock cast iron manifold, because:
1) It's lighter.
2) Aluminum heats up much faster than cast iron. In a relatively mild climate, you won't need your heat riser. You can replace it with an open spacer, and improve the exhaust flow. I always wondered why we install sewer pipe sized exhaust pipes, and then choke off one side with a heat riser valve.
3) It performs slightly better. A little more top end than the stock, without giving up the low end.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:24 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by augiedoggy
I read I regular intake manifold will work with vortex heads but the air/fuel chambers won't line up well between the intake and heads and you would lose performance. Still I read about others running the setup in a pinch so I'm guessing the bolt holes do line up or most intakes like mine have plugs to shift position. Of the bolt holes slightly.
Vortec heads are center bolt. Meaning, the intake manifold you would be using needs a bolt pattern that lines up with them. Maybe you could have a machine shop drill four holes into a reg manifold...but for my money, I'd just have new, aluminum intake. Shaves off about 50 pounds, easy.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
alright lol thanks guys. The order ill do everything is

1)intake manifold and ss sleeve kit
2)headers and straight pipe
3) top end
Eh, I would do top end first, then the headers/pipes. The angle of the exhaust ports on whatever heads you buy will determine the bends needed in the piping.

As for SS sleeve, that's brakes, right? Do that anytime.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:31 PM
  #92  
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Alright. And ss sleeve was a gift i got so I have to put it on plus it loks better the just black tubes :P i was gonna do it when I have all the fluid drained. Which would be when intake is being done
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:37 PM
  #93  
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Oh, the mesh sleeves for hoses, lol! I thought you were talking about the brakes for minute. Seemed outa the blue...headers, true duals, top end rebuild...oh and brakes.

Not to make light of brakes. Brakes are good.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #94  
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lol nope already did ss brake lines!
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 06:53 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by KevinK
Vortec heads are center bolt. Meaning, the intake manifold you would be using needs a bolt pattern that lines up with them. Maybe you could have a machine shop drill four holes into a reg manifold...but for my money, I'd just have new, aluminum intake. Shaves off about 50 pounds, easy.
Vortec heads are referred to as center bolt because the valve covers are held on by 4 bolts in the center of the valve cover, as opposed to perimeter bolt valve covers, which are the old skool ones. You're right, though, the bolt pattern is different. Also, the intake ports are about .200" taller than on the old skool sbc, so even if you drill and tap holes in the head for an old skool manifold, the ports don't line up. Back when the Vortec heads were new, there were no aftermarket intake manifolds for them, to speak of, so people did what they had to do to make it work, but I don't think anybody bothers to anymore, it's too easy to just buy a manifold.

Scott
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 05:14 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by scottyp99
Vortec heads are referred to as center bolt because the valve covers are held on by 4 bolts in the center of the valve cover, as opposed to perimeter bolt valve covers, which are the old skool ones. You're right, though, the bolt pattern is different. Also, the intake ports are about .200" taller than on the old skool sbc, so even if you drill and tap holes in the head for an old skool manifold, the ports don't line up. Back when the Vortec heads were new, there were no aftermarket intake manifolds for them, to speak of, so people did what they had to do to make it work, but I don't think anybody bothers to anymore, it's too easy to just buy a manifold.

Scott
Alright so I was browsing ebay for the 2101 intake manifold to buy and I came across Heads. Now usually anything on ebay i tend to stay away from just because of cheapness but there are still legit companies selling great products on there

Now these heads were the first to show up. Now Im just wondering the differences between these and the speedway heads. The ebay heads have 58cc chambers which is better then 64 correct?

Anyways spill you knowledge on me guys

heres the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-210CC-BUILT-ALUMINUM-HEADS-58CC-CNCd-COMBUSTION-CHAMBERS-S58210272-/370597004142?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56494d836e&vxp=mtr
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
Alright so I was browsing ebay for the 2101 intake manifold to buy and I came across Heads. Now usually anything on ebay i tend to stay away from just because of cheapness but there are still legit companies selling great products on there

Now these heads were the first to show up. Now Im just wondering the differences between these and the speedway heads. The ebay heads have 58cc chambers which is better then 64 correct?

Anyways spill you knowledge on me guys

heres the link
SBC Chevy 210cc Built Aluminum Heads 58cc CNC'D Combustion Chambers S58210272 | eBay
these heads sound like a screaming deal, don't they? Did you read the text on the website you linked to? These heads are sold without rocker studs or guide plates, and you need to use special washers under the head bolts, and you need to use special, extra long head bolts for use with the special washers. Hmmmmm, the deal is starting to sound a little less spectacular, but still pretty good. I'm wondering if 210cc intake ports are a little on the large side, though, for what you are trying to do. The same company makes a 190cc intake port head, but it's only available with a 64cc combustion chamber. Man, nobody wants to make a head for us cheapskates who are still using our stock, dished pistons. A 180cc intake port with a 58cc chamber would be perfect for what I want to do. You, too. I think what I'm going to do, is get the speedway heads, measure the combustion chambers to see exactly what I'm dealing with, and have them milled enough to give about a 58cc chamber. If the heads actually do have a 64cc chamber, a .036" cut should bring them down to 58cc. The rough rule of thumb is every .006" you cut from the head will reduce chamber cc by 1 cc. Don't know how accurate that is, but I guess I'll find out.

Scott
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:45 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Planbmatt1
Alright so I was browsing ebay for the 2101 intake manifold to buy and I came across Heads. Now usually anything on ebay i tend to stay away from just because of cheapness but there are still legit companies selling great products on there

Now these heads were the first to show up. Now Im just wondering the differences between these and the speedway heads. The ebay heads have 58cc chambers which is better then 64 correct?

Anyways spill you knowledge on me guys

heres the link
SBC Chevy 210cc Built Aluminum Heads 58cc CNC'D Combustion Chambers S58210272 | eBay
Its not that simple... the smaller chambers will give you higher compression but that doesn't mean they are the best heads or even goon heads for you to use over stock.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #99  
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Alright thats what i thought lol how much would it be to make the speedway heads 58cc? For a machine shop to do it.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 07:15 PM
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Wish I had seen those when I was shopping for stuff. I paid about 160 for a set of used vortecs, and then spent another 300 on them in machine work. For an extra 50, I coulda had aluminum, and ran a cam with decent lift.



Oh well.
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