Check the vacuum line that goes from the engine to the ac controls. You may have pulled it loose when you were digging around for the plug to bypass the EST.

 

I will check that. Even before I started pushing around looking for the EST plug I never had air out of the center vent. Is there a solenoid or actuator is attached to the control switch? Is it all vacuum controlled?

 

Is there air coming out of your side vents??? If there is, it should be coming out the center as well. Yes there are vacumm lines attached to the switch, you will need to remove the console to gain access. Each one has a different function when the switch is moved to a different detent. You have to make sure that they are all connected and move one detent at a time to see if they are functioning correctly.
Hopefully they are still intack and attached.

 

There is no air out of the side vents. After pulling the console I can see that all of the vacuum lines are connected and from the looks of them seem to be in good shape (of course they disappear after about 6-10 inches). Which detent puts it out of the center vents? I figured it would be Max A/C....???

I'm thinking that I can check the condition of the vacuum lines by actually applying a vacuum to them.... is this correct? Is there a way to check the control?

 

Max/AC, Norm & Vent will operate the center top outlets. I think your best bet is to apply vacuum as you stated. This way you can tell if your flap (diversion) door is working correctly.

 

On my A/C control switch there are four hoses. A solid black, a black/green, black/brown, and a black/blue. The only ones I can hold a vacuum on are the black/brown and black/blue hoses. Is this consistent with the center vent not working?

 

I haven't had a chance to inspect all of my vac lines to the A/C but I have stumbled on yet another issue.

When I turn my wheels to the right, I can hear a "whirring" (for a lack of better words) and the steering wheel tightens up a little. This occurs past the half-way point of the steering range. I haven't pushed it past this point to see if I can continue to turn the wheel because I don't want to ruin anything. First chance I get I'll get under there to see if anything pops out at me but I figured I would throw it out on here to see if anyone can come up with common problems in this area.

 

Okay, so the connector at the firewall for the vac lines looks to be in good shape. One of the hoses goes to an actuator (diaphragm type...???) and the other goes over the top of the firewall on the passenger side. This one disappears....where's it go? So.... I'm guessing I should pull the lines and put a suction on it????? The first photo shows the firewall plug/connector.

Also, while searching around I noticed a vac line that disconnected. The second photo is of the disconnected vacuum line. It runs over to the driver side into a check valve that has a few lines connected into it. Where does this go?

 

I'm thinkin the vac line in the second picture is your vac feed for the ac controls.

 

Where do I need to connect it? You can see that it has a little plastic tube/line connected to it.... is this a broken piece or just an adapter?

 

there is a grommet with I think 3 or 4 tubes, it goes in there
May be a broken off piece in the hose.

 

that first picture I posted poorly shows the grommet with the green and white lined vacuum tube. I probably should have rotated the picture 90 clockwise.... The grommet doesn't look like it has plastic adapters into it....

 

That hose in the second pic is in deed the vac line for the A/C control. In the first picture I am showing the vacuum line connector and I noticed only 2 out of 3 of the vac lines were hooked up. It turns out the A/C control vac line had broken. After hooking it back up I now have air out of the center vents.

After filling my windshield washer fluid reservoir I tried getting them to spray and I don't get a thing.... no noise or anything.... The wipers do come on but no spray. Is there something I need to do to "prime" the washers?

 

good news on the air flow through the vents....
your washer pump may be done, may have to be replaced.
located under the washer fill "bottle" on driver's side by the cruise control transducer.......
you can also blow air through the lines to make sure no dirt entered.

 

I have never had a gm of this era that held washer fluid for more than a day before it leaked out, my vette is no exception. My system works aside from that. I would verify voltage at the pump and from there.

 

Okay, I bench tested the pump and after bit of playing around with it, it seems that I freed it up and it now works! I think priming it with some fluid also helped.

 

Okay, so I've finally got the alarm I intend to put in the car in and am looking for some insight on the install. This alarm has a simple remote start option but I'm not sure that I will necessarily require the remote start feature.... so.... you can count that option out. My idea is to install the alarm into the area where the radio/head unit goes. I should have plenty of room underneath that air vent tubing that's back up in there to install the brain. What do you guys think about this idea?

I'm thinking that around the shifter area at the neutral safety switch I would have easy access to the ignition signal wire (for starter kill) and plenty of options for the 12V constant and the 12V switched. The wires I would have to route to that aren't in that area are the door lock signal wires and the parking light wires.... unless someone knows an access to them in this area...?

Well, I'm open to suggestions and I'd like to know if anyone has ever installed a brain at this location...? Any input is appreciated!!!

 

Okay, so I'm in the process of installing my alarm and all is well and good until I finish my last thing!!! I just got the door locks working with the remote and I go to test the lock function one last time and nothing. I hit the disarm button and open the driver side door and notice that I my interior lights aren't coming on.

I then notice that I have no power on the inside of the vehicle....

I get no crank from the engine. I checked for 12V on crank at the park/neutral switch and there is nothing when I turn the key. I literally have nothing on the inside... horn, windows, mirrors...etc.

I do have headlights though. When I pull the headlight switch out the pop-ups don't do anything of course but I can see the lights come on under the front cowl.

I have checked all of my fuses with a fuse tester and they are all good. This sounds to me like a courtesy clock fuse issue but like I said... it checked out good. I haven't had a chance to actually probe into the fuse ports to measure voltage.....

Any suggestions before I get too far ahead of myself?

P.S. I have disconnected the brain from the car and the same problem persists. Disconnecting the brain should be okay since the only wire that is interrupted for the brain install is the starter signal...and I interrupted it all the at the starter.

 

So I read through this entire thread out of curiousity as I'm working on an '82 that belongs to my girlfriend. Very nice car, and very nice job getting it running again!

I did want to mention - as I didn't see it had been answered yet.... the connector in the last photo of your original post is for your knock sensor. It clips into the small post at the end of the sensor. It is located on the bottom of the engine block just above the oil pan. If you decide to flush the coolant you'll need to unscrew the knock sensor to drain the one side of the block.

 

Okay so... I went under the dash today and was probing around checking for voltage at different fuses and after I was getting 12V where I needed it (fuel pump, courtesy clock, etc) I took a break. I shortly noticed that my passenger side kick panel light was on.... so I had power again. I also noticed that the driver side kick light was not on. I changed bulbs out and sure enough it popped on. I'm guessing there was just a loose connection at the fuse box and that probing around got a connection back....???? This sort of worries me... I don't want to be out somewhere when a loose connection pops up again.

Any suggestions as how to ensure that all of my connections at the fuse box are nice, tight and secure? It looks like taking the box out is a PITA. I have already cleaned out the fuse connectors as best as possible but if the wiring in the back of the box is loose then cleaning is not gonna help.

Any suggestions? Thanks!