1982 Stingray Starting Problems and plug/wire identification
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 3
I've got a 300# spring on order. They said it would work with stock shocks just fine. My question now is... are these shims/spacers supposed to be installed with the spring? Check out my picture. I have added two red arrows to point out the two pieces that look to be shims or spacers. There might even be a third one on top of them.
When I replace the spring does it need any spacers or shims?
When I replace the spring does it need any spacers or shims?
Last edited by Igidy; Jun 23, 2013 at 04:05 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
OMG I never seen a bubba like that! The spring broke and Bubba overlapped the spring halves. Then clamped them down with some shims!!!
:wil ly:
Your #300 should be perfect! Do you know if it comes with hardware? Bushings, pads, bolts,ect....
After Bubba clamped that down it most likely bent up the mounting hardware...
:wil ly:Your #300 should be perfect! Do you know if it comes with hardware? Bushings, pads, bolts,ect....
After Bubba clamped that down it most likely bent up the mounting hardware...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 3
I purchased a VBP kit with hardware. From the image they provide it doesn't look like there are any shims included. It does look like the center mounting plate has some shim type pieces above it. I will find out once it has been received.
Last edited by Igidy; Jun 25, 2013 at 03:29 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Talk to VPB first. Their kit might be different than the OEM spring and mount. It looks like they give you a different mounting plate..? But I've never used or installed their kit so its just a guess 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 119
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I installed new shocks and spring today and it rides nicely. I still need to adjust the ride height. I'm going with what I found as "factory measurements" of 11.42" in the rear and 16.52" in the front. Is that the way to go? This is measured at the frame rail right in front of the rear wheels and behind the front wheels right?
On a side note.... When the engine cranks over it runs at around 500-600 rpm for about 2 minutes then it noticeably kicks up to around 900. Sometimes it will die before it kicks up to 900 rpm. If I push the gas I can keep it alive. Please note that I have replaced the plugs and wires. Any ideas? Normal?
On a side note.... When the engine cranks over it runs at around 500-600 rpm for about 2 minutes then it noticeably kicks up to around 900. Sometimes it will die before it kicks up to 900 rpm. If I push the gas I can keep it alive. Please note that I have replaced the plugs and wires. Any ideas? Normal?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
My 82 does similar warm up behavior. Runs a bit differently for the first minute or two, then stumbles and runs perfectly afterwards. I attribute this to open loop/closed loop and switching over. On warm days it switches way sooner. I talked with an 84 owner and his crossfire does the same thing. I now let mine idle until I hear it change before taking off.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 119
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I noticed the same thing. It was a lot less hot a week or two ago and today at 99 degrees it doesn't die and switches over a lot sooner.
I was checking all of my lights and what not and I was wondering how you initiate the high beam headlights?
I was checking all of my lights and what not and I was wondering how you initiate the high beam headlights?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 3
When setting the ride height I'm having to tighten the bolts quite a bit to get the car to ride as high as I would like. Doing this makes the bolt stick out and I'm worried about it sticking out too much and starting to become a "low spot" concern. Is it normal/acceptable to consider cutting the bolt so that it's not the lowest spot under the car?
Okay, so... I've noticed that in the front passenger side of the engine bay I've noticed a few things missing. I'm pretty sure the A/C compressor goes here. I can see some A/C lines and connectors so I'm pretty sure that's what it is. I also see some lines coming off of the exhaust manifold which I'm guessing is EGR? I have seen some photos and I can see where that rubber hose is supposed to connect. There's that valve looking thing that is just south of center in my photo. Is this the actual EGR valve?
Okay, so... I've noticed that in the front passenger side of the engine bay I've noticed a few things missing. I'm pretty sure the A/C compressor goes here. I can see some A/C lines and connectors so I'm pretty sure that's what it is. I also see some lines coming off of the exhaust manifold which I'm guessing is EGR? I have seen some photos and I can see where that rubber hose is supposed to connect. There's that valve looking thing that is just south of center in my photo. Is this the actual EGR valve?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
Depending on the length of bolts, they can stick out quite a bit. I think that's the purpose of the metal spacers lowering the spring from the start. Your ac compressor is missing, as you noted. I'm afraid I can't help you with the emissions stuff. Mine has all been removed and capped off by a previous hack.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 943
Likes: 15
From: Valdosta Georgia
The "valve looking thing" is indeed the EGR valve. The lines coming off the exhaust manifolds are for the AIR system and some pieces seem to be missing where it connects to the AIR pump. And has as been noted, your A/C compressor is missing as well.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
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Is the EGR connected to the ECM? Can I simply plug the vac lines to it and "delete" the EGR valve to gain some power?
When I shift between Park, Reverse and Drive I can feel the transmission sort of slump (for a lack of better words) around. When I put it in Drive it feels like the car sort of squats down a little bit in the transmission area. Is this normal or should I be looking for an issue?
When I shift between Park, Reverse and Drive I can feel the transmission sort of slump (for a lack of better words) around. When I put it in Drive it feels like the car sort of squats down a little bit in the transmission area. Is this normal or should I be looking for an issue?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 119
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Can anyone get me a good shot of this area of their engine? I want to find out what I am missing. I was supposing that the EGR valve goes to that rubber hose in the center left of the photo but you can tell by the angles that it doesn't. I know I am without A/C compressor...that much I got. If I could get a good shot of this part of the engine bay that would do me wonders.
Last edited by Igidy; Jul 9, 2013 at 11:43 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
If they don't hang lower than your rims, you are safe. Lots of people running longer bolts without cutting them. Regardless of how much threads are exposed, they are all hanging down the same length.