1982 Stingray Starting Problems and plug/wire identification
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Third and final question....sorry..... Can I just plug all of the rubber hoses that route to the EGR valve instead of trying to bring it back to stock? Will this throw engine codes or make the engine run funky?
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I figured that there really is no chance of them smashing into the ground unless they are at or lower than rim level. I'm looking at getting a new A/C compressor and I'm at the point where I have to choose between "Switch Type" or "Non Switch Type". Any ideas?
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Okay, so after some searching I found some pretty good pictures and figured out the EGR routing. I don't think the EGR valve that I have is for this particular set-up. It may be off of a Trans Am or something that had the same engine with a slightly different EGR set up...??????? You tell me. The reason I say this is because if you look at the directions that the plugs on the EGR are facing in relation to the direction the hose fittings are facing they are opposite of the factory set up. I did some custom hosing and the engine runs better. I'd like to see about completely removing this from my system but before doing so I will definitely do some research and request some input.
I also found a couple A/C compressors in the garage where the car was kept. One has a noisy bearing and the other sounds good. I also found mounting hardware. I will throw that back on and see if I can't get it to work.
So, as I stated earlier, when I put the car into Drive I can feel it sort of "hunker" down, for lack of better words. I can feel the transmission vibrate and shift but it does feel like the car sort of sets into place. Is this normal?
I also found a couple A/C compressors in the garage where the car was kept. One has a noisy bearing and the other sounds good. I also found mounting hardware. I will throw that back on and see if I can't get it to work.
So, as I stated earlier, when I put the car into Drive I can feel it sort of "hunker" down, for lack of better words. I can feel the transmission vibrate and shift but it does feel like the car sort of sets into place. Is this normal?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Burkburnett TX
That's normal for most rear wheel drive cars I've had. What's your idle and in gear rpm? If its high it will exaggerate this feeling. Its also worse on a car with weak or non functioning rear brakes in my experiences.
Last edited by Arkyvette; Jul 9, 2013 at 07:30 PM.
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Okay, so the engine's RPM is the same both in idle and in gear. Roughly 750 RPM. Although I had it running at around 550-600 RPM today in the 103 degree heat. Usually it will run at 750 RPM though. I have discovered a loose connector on my driver side engine bay right near the alternator. It is a single wire female plug. View the picture below.
I have also included a picture of my EGR valve hooked up with the custom hosing. Also, I have put up two pictures of the car with the spring installed. I would like to bring the rear up some more but my bolts are already at the rim level. I still have another inch or so of threads left on the bolt though. You'll also notice that the front end is a little. From the research I've done it seems that this might settle after time? I'm guessing that since the rear end was dropped for so long that the front end raised up and will need time to settle. Any input on this?
I have also included a picture of my EGR valve hooked up with the custom hosing. Also, I have put up two pictures of the car with the spring installed. I would like to bring the rear up some more but my bolts are already at the rim level. I still have another inch or so of threads left on the bolt though. You'll also notice that the front end is a little. From the research I've done it seems that this might settle after time? I'm guessing that since the rear end was dropped for so long that the front end raised up and will need time to settle. Any input on this?
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From: newtown ct
the EGR valve is on the intake manifold between the distributer and the valve cover breather pipe with a black plastic vaccume hose on it.what you hooked up is the air injection soleniode(dont grade the spelling) if you want a few shots of my 82's engine bay can get a few later this week it is for the most part unmolested let me know
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My rear end is to me a little low and the front a little high. Is there any real issue with cutting the end link bolts on the leaf spring other than altering a brand new part that I just purchased? The only concern I see is that if I were to ever remove them and install them back on that if they were too short it might make it difficult to install. Are there any methods for lowering the front?
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I am really only having an issue with my driver side rear. It is low on that side. The passenger side seems to be adjustable enough to get it where I need to however, the driver side is already at the rim height and it could still use at least half an inch or so. It looks like I have 1.5 to 2 inches, at least, worth of threads on the bolt. What about just applying more washers/spacers under the nut of the end link bolt? Or is that just bubba?
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So, I'm on to check the timing and I can't seem to locate the brown/black (or tan/black) wire/plug for the EST. On the driver side near the base of where the distributor meets the engine I see what looks to be like a sensor. Here is a picture of it. It has three wires on it. Looks like two brown wires and one tan wire. They all look like solid color wires.
I'm showing it from two separate angles here (both from the driver's side). Is this where I need to splice and install a plug for easy disconnect? Or is this not at all the right plug? If it is... which wire gets spliced. If it is not.... where else should I look?
I'm showing it from two separate angles here (both from the driver's side). Is this where I need to splice and install a plug for easy disconnect? Or is this not at all the right plug? If it is... which wire gets spliced. If it is not.... where else should I look?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Valdosta Georgia
That is not the wire you want. That is the oil pressure sender, don't cut anything there. The brown wire you are looking for is closer to the fender along the firewall, it may be hiding under all the wires and vacuum hoses, keep looking you will find it.
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Okay, so after looking hard and long I can't find the plug. There aren't too many electrical connections in this area. There's the oil pressure sender unit/connector, the fuel pump relay, and what looks to be another relay right next to the fuel pump relay. Between the brake booster there is a single connector but it does not contain a tan/black wire. Is there something that this wire/plug connects into that could help me locate the wire? Maybe there's something that it goes into that I could trace the wire back from.
I have attached one of the earlier photos and circled a connector in red. This wire looks to be tan/black...although it could be orange/black????? That wire doesn't have a connector on it but I have read that early models didn't have a bypass connector. Is this the wire/plug?
I have attached one of the earlier photos and circled a connector in red. This wire looks to be tan/black...although it could be orange/black????? That wire doesn't have a connector on it but I have read that early models didn't have a bypass connector. Is this the wire/plug?
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Okay, so I'm right on top of it..... This vehicle must not be equipped with one. Could you possibly trace the wire and tell me which plug it goes into? Or see if it goes straight into the wiring loom...? That way I can just splice my own plug in? I'll continue searching in the mean time. Thanks again for the help and pictures.
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this little bugger was hiding. It was tucked under the windshield wiper motor. I barely saw the little wire and peeked my light into there and saw a plastic clip. Pulled it out and sure enough there it is. This IS it, yeh? heh.
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Upon my attempt to time this engine I came up with a few questions. When I unplug the EST and run the engine it runs rough and typically at a low idle (200 - 400!!!!). This hardly makes it easy to set the timing being that the engine is running so low. Is there an engine speed that I need to have someone hold the engine at while I run my timing test? Also, there was a clearly marked white out/chalk mark on the engine that I assume was the timing mark. I can't seem to find any noticeable hard mark on the harmonic balancer.... Is there typically a "V" notch or just a line?
The sticker under the hood says to not adjust the idle speed at the carbs.... really? not recommended?
The sticker under the hood says to not adjust the idle speed at the carbs.... really? not recommended?
Burning Brakes
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From: Valdosta Georgia
the sticker calls for 6 deg in Drive at idle speed. Idle speed in Drive should be 500-600 rpm or so. If the car is not holding that rpm you may have another issue. The timing mark on the balancer is a line (groove) in the balancer and there is an indicator attached to the block. Line up the groove with the 6 deg mark on the indicator at 500-600 rpm. You will need a helper to keep the car from moving or you will need to block the tires if you do it yourself. I'd get a helper.
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Okay, I got it timed in drive and it run's so much better now. Thanks for the help.
I have noticed that no air blows out of the two center vents above the center gauge console.... where should I look first for issues?
I have noticed that no air blows out of the two center vents above the center gauge console.... where should I look first for issues?