1982 Stingray Starting Problems and plug/wire identification
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 119
Likes: 3
I apologize for the crummy quality of the following pictures but I wasn't exactly sure how to photograph this stuff. You'll notice that the passenger rear wheel is cambering outward. Again, I don't see any structural damage to the frame or anything. None of the arms look bent or damaged either. From the looks it seems like this has two leaf springs, which could be broken? I don't see a break point or anything but maybe you guys can chime in on the issue.
Also, I was pulling on the parking brake today and heard a snap and the handle went loose. Sure enough, I broke the rusted out cable that operates the parking brake. Is this an easy fix?
Also, I was pulling on the parking brake today and heard a snap and the handle went loose. Sure enough, I broke the rusted out cable that operates the parking brake. Is this an easy fix?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
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I've noticed that since I broke the parking brake cable the brakes work now. They are a little spongy but previously they were completely soft. Maybe the caliper is stuck in a closed position or by pulling the hand brake I freed a previously stuck caliper?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
If your calipers are old, just replace them from the parts store. Its way easier and not worth the hassle of rebuilding them (imho). If your leaf spring is in two pieces, its broken. That's supposed to be one spring. Vbp would be my rec for a new spring. Someone has had your rear strut rods out, they are not normally orange. Also, inspect your aluminum diff cover where the spring mounts, make sure its not cracked, broken.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Fiberglass springs rarely break
in fact I've never seen one break or sag. You just have to have the end bushings adjusted correctly.
Calipers are not worth playing with when advanced auto is selling rebuilt one for $65 each.
Good Luck
that car looks like its all there!
in fact I've never seen one break or sag. You just have to have the end bushings adjusted correctly.Calipers are not worth playing with when advanced auto is selling rebuilt one for $65 each.
Good Luck
that car looks like its all there!
Racer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 394
Likes: 1
From: Everywhere US
Very rare to break one of those springs ..... I do notice you spring bolts are all the way to the bottom .... so some adjustment to that will certainly raise the tail end up some ... should have an inch or so at the bottom of the bolt ....Glad to hear you got is running ... looks like a good clean up in the engine bay is in order ... should help with any other issues that mite crop up ....
Your emergency brake is not necessarily related to your normal braking system, as it has its own hub and shoe set up inside your rotor ..... changing the cable is easy ... and they are available at Corvette America (or the like) .... once adjusted, it should be good .... or as good as they get ......
Looks like a fun project ......
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
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When the car is on the ground I notice that the center of the spring is lower than the ends of the spring. I read somewhere that that is a sign of spring failure.
Also, I thought the main negative to a fiberglass spring is the possibility of them breaking as opposed to a steel spring being less susceptible to that. ????
Also, I thought the main negative to a fiberglass spring is the possibility of them breaking as opposed to a steel spring being less susceptible to that. ????
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
When the car is on the ground I notice that the center of the spring is lower than the ends of the spring. I read somewhere that that is a sign of spring failure.
Also, I thought the main negative to a fiberglass spring is the possibility of them breaking as opposed to a steel spring being less susceptible to that. ????
Also, I thought the main negative to a fiberglass spring is the possibility of them breaking as opposed to a steel spring being less susceptible to that. ????
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
Drop your spare tire and the carrier its in out of the car. This will give you a clear look and will need done either way. I suspect your spring is broken right in the middle. Could be in conjunction with a damaged batwing (rear diff cover and mount assy).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
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It's definitely the leaf spring. See the attached photos. You can clearly see that the driver side of the leaf spring is tattered at the center joint. It also looks like the mounting section is in good order. It seems to me that a steel replacement would be preferred since it would be less likely to break like this. I know the spring rates have a chance of fading but I've also read some horror stories of new fiberglass springs breaking shortly after an install.
After doing some researching I see that there are a few spring rate options for replacement leaf springs... what would you guys suggest?
After doing some researching I see that there are a few spring rate options for replacement leaf springs... what would you guys suggest?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
Wow, that's really broken. Its not common at all, I would go back with a composite spring. They ride and perform so much better (imho). They really don't often break like that. Vbp is where to get a good one, they run sales here every so often. With it broken, your entire rear end and even the front wont sit right. Probably plan on shocks to go with whatever type of spring you choose. Depending on if that happened at speed, you may want to closely inspect the rest of your rear components for damage.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
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Would you recommend going with the lowest spring rate (300)? My ambitions for any performance are way down the road and I'm more inclined to comfort for now.
Would getting a lower rate steel spring (260 - 280ish) provide a better ride and also the improved durability?
Would getting a lower rate steel spring (260 - 280ish) provide a better ride and also the improved durability?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
A fiberglass spring will ride smoother from every bit of research I have done. I have the vbp 420 and its hard as an unloaded f350 in the rear. I don't like it. I think the factory spring was around 260 and were known to ride very well.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
Just make sure your shocks are in good shape and if the exhaust runs close to the spring, shield it and you'll be okay. I'm running a 330 lb composite spring in my '73 and it handles very well and rides good on good roads. Rough roads are pretty tough. If I just wanted a cruiser, I would probably run a little softer spring. I hated my steel spring.
DC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
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Even low spring rate steel springs (260-280ish) will be rougher in ride than a composite of the same rate?
Whats the best way to test shocks? Just pushing them in and making sure they retract when I let off?
Also, as far as checking the other components.... I can check the rear strut rods pretty easily (straightness and bushings) but would visual inspection of the lower ball joint be sufficient or is there a more concrete way without actually putting them to use.
Also, you really think caliper replacement is necessary if I get a nice solid compression from them? I already have plans for replacing the rubber hoses and flushing/bleeding the lines. I know that if I replace the calipers later I will be losing all of that fluid in the lines and have to re-bleed anyways. I just don't want to spend any unnecessary money.
Whats the best way to test shocks? Just pushing them in and making sure they retract when I let off?
Also, as far as checking the other components.... I can check the rear strut rods pretty easily (straightness and bushings) but would visual inspection of the lower ball joint be sufficient or is there a more concrete way without actually putting them to use.
Also, you really think caliper replacement is necessary if I get a nice solid compression from them? I already have plans for replacing the rubber hoses and flushing/bleeding the lines. I know that if I replace the calipers later I will be losing all of that fluid in the lines and have to re-bleed anyways. I just don't want to spend any unnecessary money.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 28
From: Burkburnett TX
Your calipers will leak as soon as they see any good use with some heat cycles. Why risk it over a few hundred bucks. I know that a composite spring will react differently, so yes, they are smoother. There is no good way to test a shock other than bouncing the car, and making sure the fluid hasn't leaked out. If the shocks are old, the seals and valves inside them are old and they might be brittle and dried out and might need replaced anyway. As far as inspecting things, look to see if anything contacted the ground that should not have, look at the halfshafts to see if they got in a bind and bent or wrecked the u joints (I would go ahead and change these while you have things apart) make sire your rear wheel bearings aren't way out of tolerance while its apart also.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: mount holly NC
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How about just changing the spring, get the car on the road and then see what else needs to be fixed?
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
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Think replacing the shocks with a stock replacement, along with putting a 300 lb spring in would be too bouncy? I plan on this just being a cruiser. Where I live we have horrible roads....to say the least. I have another car with what I would call "soft" coilovers (quite a bit harder than stock) and the ride around town is rough.
I'm leaning towards that setup... 300 lb with stock shocks.....???
I'm leaning towards that setup... 300 lb with stock shocks.....???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 363
From: Lubbock Texas
Ask the spring vendors if stock shocks will work with the spring you want. If I remember correctly, the stiffer the spring the better the quality of shock is required. 300 lb spring might be just fine with stock shocks but you should double check with the experts. You might search the forum as well, there have been plenty of shock/spring threads in previous years.
DC
DC
Last edited by DC3; Jun 19, 2013 at 01:52 PM.