1982 Stingray Starting Problems and plug/wire identification
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The starter checked out good. So, I'll go ahead and install the other, newer one. Ok, so... the aux fan not being in wouldn't affect starting.
Ok, so.... I should be looking at my ignition/key circuity yeh? suggestions?
Ok, so.... I should be looking at my ignition/key circuity yeh? suggestions?
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From: mount holly NC
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So.... new starter on and.... still a no crank condition with no 12V to purple wire when key is on. My next go is to either follow the positive cable from the battery to the panel... or pull the column and check at the ignition switch/control.... any recommendations as to which first?
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
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Before I even removed the previous starter I tried jumping 12V to the purple wire and it didn't do anything.... Both starters that tested good (at Autozone) show that the purple wire terminal has continuity to the body of the starter....which puts it with continuity to ground. I'm not sure it makes sense that the signal terminal (purple) would be connected to the ground of the starter but maybe someone can chime in....?
If I were to jump 12V to the purple wire of the starter I would actually being jumping it to ground... errrrr. Could the starter have a bad terminal yet still test good?
If I were to jump 12V to the purple wire of the starter I would actually being jumping it to ground... errrrr. Could the starter have a bad terminal yet still test good?
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
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Before I even removed the previous starter I tried jumping 12V to the purple wire and it didn't do anything.... Both starters that tested good (at Autozone) show that the purple wire terminal has continuity to the body of the starter....which puts it with continuity to ground. I'm not sure it makes sense that the signal terminal (purple) would be connected to the ground of the starter but maybe someone can chime in....?
If I were to jump 12V to the purple wire of the starter I would actually being jumping it to ground... errrrr. Could the starter have a bad terminal yet still test good?
If I were to jump 12V to the purple wire of the starter I would actually being jumping it to ground... errrrr. Could the starter have a bad terminal yet still test good?
At Autozone they ground the starter case,
then apply 12 volts to the top terminal of the solenoid.
The starter is ready but not turning.
Now when you apply 12 volts to the "S" terminal the coils in the solenoid pull in and send 12 volts from the top big terminal to the bottom terminal and the starter spins.
In the car the starter is bolted to the engine and that is the ground.
The battery cable connects to the top terminal, the starter is ready but not turning.
When you turn the key to START 12 volts goes to the "S" terminal and the starter spins until you turn the key to run.
You have to find why you don't have 12 volts on your purple wire.
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Arkyvette, I jumped 12V to the purple wire at the plug to the starter extension harness. I didn't use a low gauge wire but rather an 18 or 20 gauge wire through the backside of the plug (firewall side). Maybe I need to use a higher gauge for amperage purposes?
petes74ttop, if I'm measuing that the "S" terminal is connected to the starter case then that means when you bolt it to the engine then the "S" terminal becomes ground. Then... if 12V were applied to it, then it would be a short.... yeh? Is the "S" terminal supposed to be "connected" to the starter case like I am measuring or is it supposed to be "insulated" from it?
petes74ttop, if I'm measuing that the "S" terminal is connected to the starter case then that means when you bolt it to the engine then the "S" terminal becomes ground. Then... if 12V were applied to it, then it would be a short.... yeh? Is the "S" terminal supposed to be "connected" to the starter case like I am measuring or is it supposed to be "insulated" from it?
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It seems to me that the "S" terminal should never be connected to ground or starter case for that matter. Whats your take? It seems like even at Autozone the starter wouldn't work if the "S" were grounded.... hrmmmm
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From: mount holly NC
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Let's recap...
The battery is new and charged.
The cables are good, clean and tight.
The starter tests good.
The 6 wire connector is not burnt or corroded.
The starter clicked before so lets see what to look a next.
The power for the purple wire comes from the ignition switch when turned to start.
That power goes through the neutral safety switch and through the theft deterrent control module and ends up at the "S" terminal.
The neutral safety switch is connected to the shifter so try moving the shifter back and forth.
Maybe you will get lucky!
The cables are good, clean and tight.
The starter tests good.
The 6 wire connector is not burnt or corroded.
The starter clicked before so lets see what to look a next.
The power for the purple wire comes from the ignition switch when turned to start.
That power goes through the neutral safety switch and through the theft deterrent control module and ends up at the "S" terminal.
The neutral safety switch is connected to the shifter so try moving the shifter back and forth.
Maybe you will get lucky!
Burning Brakes
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From: Burkburnett TX
If you ohm through a coil you will get resistance. Nothing to worry about there. If the starter was faulty, it would have tested bad. Sounds like you did that test wrong with the 12 volts. Send it straight to the back of the starter where the purple wire connects and if you get cranking, then backtrace the purple wire to find out why you don't have 12 volts on it with key to start. As a side note. Have you tried to turn your key really hard to start? I've had some gm products that when worn, required this. Just a thought....
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Ok, I definitely was not jumping the 12V to purple correctly. I got under the car today with a 10 gauge wire and jumped the two terminals and it definitely flipped the starter on. So... that end of the circuity is right... So, from what petes74ttop is saying I need to check my anti theft module and the ignition switch. This is the starter side of the key control, correct?
Whats on the battery side of the key control? From the wiring diagrams I have it seems that it goes to the crank fuse and then the battery. Is that all?
I also tried the techniques mentioned (turning key really hard and going between P and N) and nothing. I have noticed that every now and then when I turn the key I get a chime from the dash. It doesn't happen all the time but about half the time. Sometimes its hardly a chime and sounds like the power to the chime is weak and it just sort of "chime rattles".
Whats on the battery side of the key control? From the wiring diagrams I have it seems that it goes to the crank fuse and then the battery. Is that all?
I also tried the techniques mentioned (turning key really hard and going between P and N) and nothing. I have noticed that every now and then when I turn the key I get a chime from the dash. It doesn't happen all the time but about half the time. Sometimes its hardly a chime and sounds like the power to the chime is weak and it just sort of "chime rattles".
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From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
Don't really have anything constructive to add to this conservation, but I keep checking in to see if the Stingray badge ***** have busted this guys chops yet about calling his '82 'vette a Stingray. I wonder what's taking them so long?
Igidy, FYI, that's my snarky way of warning you that some people on this forum get a little wrapped around the axle if you call your '68, or '77-'82 'vette a Stingray. Good luck with your problem, I think you're in good hands here, and should have it figured out in no time. Sorry I can't be of help, but I have an '80 'vette, I don't know nuthin' 'bout no new-fangled '82 'vettes! And, welcome to the forum!
Scott
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haha...oops. Didn't even think about it but or anything (or even know for that matter) but its good that no one has hijacked the thread yet.. 
My apologies for messing that one up.
Well the help so far has been amazing and I am already many steps forward on getting this thing going.
Once I gain access to the anti theft module, ignition switch, etc... what are my methods for testing them?
My apologies for messing that one up. Well the help so far has been amazing and I am already many steps forward on getting this thing going.
Once I gain access to the anti theft module, ignition switch, etc... what are my methods for testing them?