Okay, so... the wires on my Park Neutral Switch are green, pink, purple, and purple/white. The pink, purple and purple/white wires all get 12V at start and run. The green wire gets no power ever. I measured this in both the Park and Neutral positions. Safe to say that it's a bad Park Neutral Switch?

Also, I couldn't find a three wire relay for the anti-theft deterrent. I did find a four wire plug that looks like it should be. Mainly because of the size and coloring of the wires. I found a relay that with large gauge wiring containing a black/white, purple, and two purple/wires. I'm sure that's it right?

 

Alright, so after I posted earlier I decided to go ahead and see if I pick up anything at the Anti-Theft relay (what I assume is it anyways... purple/white x2, purple and black/white). I found it easy enough to push my probe in through the back side of the plug so that is how I got my measurements. On the first purple/white wire I measured 12V at start and run. Then I moved down to the next wire (purple/white) and shoved the probe in. When I turned the key to make a measurement it cranked the engine over. Turns out the connections of the pins into the plug are pretty loose and when they get pushed into the anti-theft relay they get "pushed back" and break connection. So, I'll work on getting a permanently better connection. In the mean time I did some tests with a probe in the back side of the plug. I also noticed that one of the pins coming out of the relay looks burnt up so... maybe it could use a replacement.

I notice that when I turn the key to start/run I hear a rapid fire clicking coming from the passenger side fender near the windshield. It's pretty faint and I can't really hear it from the underside of the car, nor the inside. Any guesses?

By the way.... it cranked.... but no start. I'll work on getting a better connection before I move into diagnosing what's keeping it from fully turning over. Where is the fuel pump located on this? I want to make sure I at least have it powering on.....

 

That clicking is probably your blower motor. They run on low all the time on these cars. I was told its normal on mine.

 

yeah... I noticed the blower switches and A/C were in the on position. I haven't tried it since I moved the selector but I'll find out. So, where's the easiest place to see if I have fuel delivery? Also, for checking spark to each cylinder is it best to do it cylinder by cylinder at the plugs?

 

I would go to your fuel filter on the passengers frame rail under the front fender and run a hose to a bucket, cycle your key to on a few times and see what comes out. The pump is in the tank. As far as ignition, if your cap and rotor are good, you can have your ignition module tested for free at the parts store. That leaves the wires and plugs which you should replace anyway and the coil which rarely goes bad. The sticky for 82s is a great place to learn now that you have a car that cranks. Glad you figured it out!

 

Are there injectors to check? Hmmm I see your point about the stickys now..... . where is the ignition module?

I'll go ahead and put in for new wires and plugs. Is there a good test for the cap/rotor or Is just visual inspection is suffice?

 

Ignition module is the thing below the rotor in the distributor. It has prongs on each end with connectors plugged into them. Its held in with two screws. Make sure and use thermal compound under it as it gets hot. Cap and rotor are visual inspection or just replace while your in there. Do your start troubleshooting with the air cleaner removed so you can observe the fuel injectors spray pattern, or lack of...

 

When you turn the ignition to on. You should hear the pump kick in for about 2 seconds. Right after that you should hear the prime pulse from the injectors....its a funny noise. Do you hear these noises?

Jim

 

I pulled the filters and no fuel. I pulled the fuel filter and get no fuel out of it. When I turn the key I hear a click in the back and then about two seconds later another click. I don't hear a hum or anything from the pump but just the two clicks. I guess I'm hearing the relay but not the pump?

Guess my next guess is to inspect the pump/sending unit, yeh?

 

Sounds like it. Get the 85 pump. Replace the in tank hose.

Under the ashtray is a plug jump power to terminal g. I think it's G do a search

 

On the wiring diagram I have it doesn't say which terminal is G but it does show that one side of the check connector has just one wire, and that is a red wire to the fuel pump relay.

Can I just check for power at the fuel pump? There is that two plug wire that should get power when keyed? If I'm looking at it correctly one side is hot and the other is ground. I also noticed that there is a ground terminal soldered onto the fuel pump cover. Is that just a general grounding wire for the case?

 

You can check for power at the pump. By running power to the terminal under the ashtray you bypass the relay.

Yes there should a ground on the pump lid

 

Almost forgot there is a connector buried just above the tank. Make sure it's clean

 

P.S. how do you remove that two wire plug at the fuel pump? Before I go straight pulling on it I wanted to make sure there isn't something I need to do first like turn it one way or if there is some catch release that I'm not seeing.....

 

Can you describe a little better where the connector on top of the tank is?

Where's a good source for power? I'd hate to go straight from the battery....???

 

There is a catch release. Go to ebay or a vender so you can eyeball one

 

Picture of clip of connector

http://willcoxcorvette.com/popup_image.php?pID=570

 

Okay, so at fuel pump connector I have Red, Black, and Tan/white wires. When I turn the key to run I get 12V at the Tan/White wire for a couple seconds. That's the prime pulse yeah? With key on Start I get constant 12V. Without key in I get ground at both Red and Black wires. I did not measure continuity of the Red with key on.

This says to me that the signals are in the right place but the pump/sender is bad. Agreed?

 

Your pump is bad. Gummed up. Replace with 85 model pump. You will have to add a connector but the pumps normally come with it.

 

Recommend getting both pump and sending unit? If so, both for an 85 or just the pump? seems I can only find the sending unit online... or possibly through a dealership.... maybe I can just pull it and inspect it. It really just acts like a conduit for the fuel between the pump and engine and the mechanism for measuring the fuel level, yeh?