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1982 Stingray Starting Problems and plug/wire identification

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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #61  
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Default Good point.

Originally Posted by Arkyvette
Did you jump 12 volts to the purple wire terminal on the starter?

I forgot about checking the cables.
Todays test proves they are OK.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 04:51 PM
  #62  
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Igidy, take a look at your fuse box.
Is the fuse marked "THEFT" good?
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #63  
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I checked all of fuses again today and they are all good. I also checked and there is continuity between the crank fuse and the purple wire. It seems like the ignition switches go bad on these things often so I will go ahead and just change that out... I found one locally, and new for $10. Next culprits are the neutral safety switch ($60...errr) and the anti-theft ($$????). Where are these two?
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #64  
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Using your wiring diagrams you can bypass the expensive switch and see if its going to fix it before spending the money.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:00 PM
  #65  
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You are referring to the neutral safety switch, correct? That one I will definitely inspect on before replacing. Since the ignition switch is somewhat inexpensive and a common fault I will go ahead an replace it. Any tips on the tilt rod adjustment on the ignition switch?
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 09:09 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Igidy
I checked all of fuses again today and they are all good. I also checked and there is continuity between the crank fuse and the purple wire. It seems like the ignition switches go bad on these things often so I will go ahead and just change that out... I found one locally, and new for $10. Next culprits are the neutral safety switch ($60...errr) and the anti-theft ($$????). Where are these two?
The anti theft module is behind the passenger seat mounted to the frame in front of the storage compartment. I'm not sure of its exact location,
The starter interrupt relay is under the consol to the right of the A/C switch. There are three wires to it. One is purple with a white strip. One is black with a white strip and one is solid purple. Power goes to the relay from the ignition on the purple/white strip. Power to the starter comes out on the solid purple. If you can get at it turn the ignition to on, check for power at the purple with white strip. If you have power there check the solid purple. If there is not power on the solid purple the switch has be tripped and has deactivated the starter.

Theoretically you should be able to by pass the relay by jumping power from the purple with white strip to the solid purple. Its at your risk. I've never done it.

If the assumption is the alarm has been tripped have you tried unarming it? Lock and unlock both doors with a key.

I think this diagram is for an 81 but it looks identical to the one in my book. Go to this link and scroll down http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...rm-wiring.html

Last edited by jdp6000; Jun 7, 2013 at 09:17 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 05:27 PM
  #67  
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Ok... new ignition switch in and still no crank. I didn't make any measurements at the ignition switch plug but I'm assuming everything's making it through okay. I figure once I get into the neutral switch then I can make measurements on either side of it (purple and purple/white). If I have voltage to purple white then I know that its making it through the ignition relay. Does it go from the ignition switch right into the neutral switch or through the anti-theft first?
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 05:42 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Igidy
Ok... new ignition switch in and still no crank. I didn't make any measurements at the ignition switch plug but I'm assuming everything's making it through okay. I figure once I get into the neutral switch then I can make measurements on either side of it (purple and purple/white). If I have voltage to purple white then I know that its making it through the ignition relay. Does it go from the ignition switch right into the neutral switch or through the anti-theft first?
If I'm reading it right. Ignition to neutral switch first, then starter interrupt relay.Pink wire to neutral switch should be hot in start or run. Yellow wire to neutral switch should be hot in start only.

Diagram gets funky after that. Shows a clutch start switch feed by the same yellow. Then the purple with white strip comes out of the clutch start switch and goes to the starter interrupt relay.

J
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 05:44 PM
  #69  
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Check those two relays. But you might be chasing the wrong thing. I've heard a bad connection (main or otherwise) on the back of the fuse panel has been know to cause this exact problem.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 05:51 PM
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P.S. can I gain access to the anti-theft relay by removing just the lower console cover? Also, are there any hidden screws/bolts/clips I should be notified of before I try and remove the console cover?
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 06:07 PM
  #71  
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Okay, so... it's on to the relays. So, I found the anti-theft module but don't see the relay... it's in that compartment also right? What do you suggest as far as inspecting the fuse box?

So, its weird that when I first tried to start the car the clicking wasn't right from the get go. I played around with the drive select a little and some of the controls and then it started clicking.... Then (and now) it won't even do that. Definitely symptoms of a bad connection or even a sticking relay....(????)
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 06:17 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Igidy
Okay, so... it's on to the relays. So, I found the anti-theft module but don't see the relay... it's in that compartment also right? What do you suggest as far as inspecting the fuse box?

So, its weird that when I first tried to start the car the clicking wasn't right from the get go. I played around with the drive select a little and some of the controls and then it started clicking.... Then (and now) it won't even do that. Definitely symptoms of a bad connection or even a sticking relay....(????)
Neutral switch should be on the shifter. Look for the yellow wire.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #73  
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Looks like this

https://www.corvetteforum.com/c3-tec...t-located.html

Re fuse panel. Find the big connector on the firewall side now in the area of the fuse box. Wiggle it
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 08:23 PM
  #74  
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re fuse panel?? I'll definitely get in there and see if I can find any play in the fuse box and snug up as many connections as I find.... I just love working on that fuse box in that nice easy to access location! Where is the park neutral relay?

Maybe ill go to the "crank" pin on the ECM and see if it is even switching 12V with key turn. Would that indicate anything useful?
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 09:07 PM
  #75  
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you seem bent on getting deep into this thing. Have you messed with the Neutral safety switch yet? For your fuse box, pull all the fuses one by one, clean up terminals then put them back. I use a very thin screwdriver with emery cloth strip wrapped around the tip to stick in the fuse sockets to clean them up. That alone got half my accessories working again. Bypass your Neutral safety switch and get back to us.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 09:27 PM
  #76  
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Yeh, I gotta be careful how deep I get.... I have already pulled all of the fuses and cleaned them, or replaced where necessary. I did not clean inside the fuse terminals but that is a great idea!

I will get into the neutral safety switch tomorrow. I should be able to just put the pink and yellow wires together right to effectively bypass the thing, yeh? I'll see if I am even getting voltage to it at all! That would be the first thing to inspect I suppose. I will get into it some time tomorrow and report back.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 09:28 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Igidy
Okay, so... it's on to the relays. So, I found the anti-theft module but don't see the relay... it's in that compartment also right? What do you suggest as far as inspecting the fuse box?

So, its weird that when I first tried to start the car the clicking wasn't right from the get go. I played around with the drive select a little and some of the controls and then it started clicking.... Then (and now) it won't even do that. Definitely symptoms of a bad connection or even a sticking relay....(????)
Your looking in the wrong place. Both are under the consol. You need to remove it. Take the side panels off. Undo the screws on each side. Don't forget the two screws that hold the consol to the center cluster, there is one on each side. When you have it freed remove the **** on the shifter, you need to multi task, as you lift the consol back and up you need to move the shifter from park to L1 otherwise the consol will not clear. You just may have to romove the center cluster too. That had a trick too, loosen it off pull the top out enough to disconnect the bulb or it won't clear the upper dash pad.

Or forget the above, just remove the passenger side panel. Both relays should be somewhat visible.

Jim
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To 1982 Stingray Starting Problems and plug/wire identification

Old Jun 11, 2013 | 12:24 AM
  #78  
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So bypassing the relay means jumping the pink and yellow wires yeh?
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 01:15 AM
  #79  
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Not that ive any thing pertainent to offer, but wasnt 76 the last year of the stingray?
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 08:12 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Igidy
So bypassing the relay means jumping the pink and yellow wires yeh?
I don't know I've never done it. Start by seeing where the power runs to. If you have power going in and coming out that's not where the problem is. Report back and we can go from there.

Jim
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