oil psi line
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 571
Likes: 5
From: usa
oil psi line
found the oil gauge line leaking again.
first time the line cracked, so I replaced with a new plastic line.
2 days later, it was leaking again, fitting on the gauge seemed loose.
yestday I was working on the cig liter, it kept blowing fuses. so I pull the console apart and found oil on the radio. line is weeping at the gauge. I tried to tighten it up and the brass fitting on the line broke.
is the plastic repair lines a different angle then the original gauge ????
yep carpet soaked oil again, glad I didn't replace it yet.
on the bright side, I fixed the string on the selector, got the AC and fan working. fixing dash lights, oh the lighter had a penny and dime down inside, still doesn't work but its not blowing fuses.
first time the line cracked, so I replaced with a new plastic line.
2 days later, it was leaking again, fitting on the gauge seemed loose.
yestday I was working on the cig liter, it kept blowing fuses. so I pull the console apart and found oil on the radio. line is weeping at the gauge. I tried to tighten it up and the brass fitting on the line broke.
is the plastic repair lines a different angle then the original gauge ????
yep carpet soaked oil again, glad I didn't replace it yet.
on the bright side, I fixed the string on the selector, got the AC and fan working. fixing dash lights, oh the lighter had a penny and dime down inside, still doesn't work but its not blowing fuses.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 4s,
The plastic oil pressure line has a tiny 'ferrule' that's part of the compression fitting at each end. If that collet has been compressed several times it will need to be replaced.
I'd begin over with a new line, furrels, and fittings at each end.
Regards,
Alan
The plastic oil pressure line has a tiny 'ferrule' that's part of the compression fitting at each end. If that collet has been compressed several times it will need to be replaced.
I'd begin over with a new line, furrels, and fittings at each end.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Sep 28, 2013 at 05:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 571
Likes: 5
From: usa
that what I did, but using a line from advanced auto,
think I am just going to cap it off for now til I get a new motor in.
this is the first car I have ever had a leaking oil line problem......IDK
think I am just going to cap it off for now til I get a new motor in.
this is the first car I have ever had a leaking oil line problem......IDK
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I used a copper line kit from AutoZone. The fittings for the gauge end didn't fit. My memory is a bit vague on this, but IIRC I went to the hardware store and bought a compression fitting that fit the line (1/8"?). Installed it using the original nut that was on the gauge and it didn't leak when I tested it. I've been afraid to look since but I haven't smelled any oil in the passenger compartment.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
GM used a special ferrule ( crush sleeve) on factory oil lines. Unless you have the correct one leaks are likely. I suggest you order a replacement and an extra from Wilcox to get the correct ferrule. NAPA used to carry the correct part I don't know if they do anymore.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
YEP...I use copper with the correct type of ferrule. I luckily get them here locally. Also I have seen in the plastic type tube...there is a very small sleeve that is pushed into the end of the tube to give the ferrule something to compress against. If it does not have it...the plastic tube can leak due to lack of strength at the compression point.
DUB
DUB
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
said it before, they make Stainless 1/8" line,
be sure to use the correct fittings and ferrules.
Replace it once and be done, .... forever.
Never trust those cheap plastic lines.
I would not recommend copper line, either.
good luck, on your choice.
be sure to use the correct fittings and ferrules.
Replace it once and be done, .... forever.
Never trust those cheap plastic lines.
I would not recommend copper line, either.
good luck, on your choice.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
Wasn't the reason Chevrolet used the plastic line because a copper, steel, or ss line, can harden from the constant vibiration and crack right where the line goes into the engine block fitting?
Don't the bb copper oil lines show a 'coil' in the tubbing length to deal with the vibration?
Regards,
Alan
Isn't this the reason there are rubber fuel lines at the tank and fuel pump connections also?
Wasn't the reason Chevrolet used the plastic line because a copper, steel, or ss line, can harden from the constant vibiration and crack right where the line goes into the engine block fitting?
Don't the bb copper oil lines show a 'coil' in the tubbing length to deal with the vibration?
Regards,
Alan
Isn't this the reason there are rubber fuel lines at the tank and fuel pump connections also?
Last edited by Alan 71; Sep 28, 2013 at 05:49 PM.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
I'd use a copper line with a loop as Alan posted get a braided pre-terminated line kit for it. The copper will be fine with a loop in it and I'd trust that way before I'd trust a plastic tube.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I use copper line ( for oil pressure)...it is much better in long term fatigue in cracking. Check it out. The copper/nickel brake/fuel line have better fatigue ratings than stainless steel. I am not making it up.
Yes..put a coil (spiral) in it at the engine block...much like the brake lines coming out of master cylinders on some vehicles.
I do use the 1/8" stainless tubing...but where it can be secured and not move...such as feeding vacuum to the rear of the car for the vacuum operated rear vents...due to this line can be damaged due to its routing along the real lock pillar behind the passenger seat and along the right wheel house on the inside.
DUB
Yes..put a coil (spiral) in it at the engine block...much like the brake lines coming out of master cylinders on some vehicles.
I do use the 1/8" stainless tubing...but where it can be secured and not move...such as feeding vacuum to the rear of the car for the vacuum operated rear vents...due to this line can be damaged due to its routing along the real lock pillar behind the passenger seat and along the right wheel house on the inside.
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 13
From: Hollywood, Florida
I use copper line ( for oil pressure)...it is much better in long term fatigue in cracking. Check it out. The copper/nickel brake/fuel line have better fatigue ratings than stainless steel. I am not making it up.
Yes..put a coil (spiral) in it at the engine block...much like the brake lines coming out of master cylinders on some vehicles.
I do use the 1/8" stainless tubing...but where it can be secured and not move...such as feeding vacuum to the rear of the car for the vacuum operated rear vents...due to this line can be damaged due to its routing along the real lock pillar behind the passenger seat and along the right wheel house on the inside.
DUB
Yes..put a coil (spiral) in it at the engine block...much like the brake lines coming out of master cylinders on some vehicles.
I do use the 1/8" stainless tubing...but where it can be secured and not move...such as feeding vacuum to the rear of the car for the vacuum operated rear vents...due to this line can be damaged due to its routing along the real lock pillar behind the passenger seat and along the right wheel house on the inside.
DUB
DUB--
Just curious, where can I get the correct type of ferrule you mentioned before?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 13
From: Hollywood, Florida
I will let you know. I will get a photo of it and E-mail it to you to verify. I believe the correct ferrule for the factory fitting is specific to the threaded cap. I think the inside is slightly different and requires the correct ferrule. And aftermarket fitting threaded caps are different due to the coned compression sleeve. Either way... I will get to a photo and info.
DUB
DUB