Rear Spring Positioning
I just replaced the rear spring mount bolts, bushings, washers, and nuts on my buddy's 74. I'm concerned about the front-to-rear lineup of the mounting holes in the spring ends and the wheel assembly (see pictures). It appears to be a good 1" difference with the spring being further back than wheel assembly. I couldn't see any way to move the spring assembly forward. Maybe it will get better when I put the wheels back on it and drop them to the ground???


Any thoughts/direction would be most helpful!!
Thanks in advance for your help!
Wayne
Last edited by wayneyada; Oct 27, 2013 at 01:10 AM. Reason: Pix aren't working
WELCOME!!!
First post, and a question that MANY people have wondered about.
Mike's right...the bolt alignment will improve.
Remember the rear of the t-arm moves in an 'arc', so the mounting point for the spring bolt moves forward as the t-arm drops far below or goes high above the position it's at when the car is just sitting on the ground.
Hope to see more of you and your car here.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I did notice, however, in your photos how you didn't peen the new cups over once installed through the trailing arm (upper cup) and through the spring itself. The factory peened them both, thereby "locking" them into position.
Does the group here think this will be alright over time, or is there a worry that the cups could come out of position due to not being peened over?
Nice eye!
Raises the question... where the cups peened because of the reason you suggest, or because they came to the line as part of an assembly so had to be peened to hold them in place until the bolt and bushings were installed?
Don't know!
Regards,
Alan

I replaced my spring a few years back, and when I did, I peened new cups on the new spring. Being able to do it on a bench made it much simpler than I imagine it would be for the trailing arm. I did not have the TA's out, so it wasn't necessary for me to worry about those cups at the time.
I did mine with a large ball peen hammer, struck with a 5 pound sledge, ball side first then the flat side, thereby enabling the cuff to find its way to form without splitting. I was actually proud of myself on that one. To accomplish this in the trailing arm, I suppose a drawing/clamping - type fixture would be required. I think one of those has been devised, as I've read about it on the NCRS TDB.
I do know that the judges take demerits when an "un-finished" cup is observed. I did mine for this reason as well as the old "that's the way it came, so that's how it oughta be" syndrome.
Good to hear that there may be little risk of the cup coming out of position, especially for the 99%ers (
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