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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 05:17 AM
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Default Engine Temp

I purchased a 72 with a 383 4speed set up, it has a huge aluminum radiator it has a 160 degree thermostat and seems to never get hot enough for heat in the cabin. It ran for an hour last night and never got even warm. I checked the hoses and everything appears to be flowing. Top radiator hose was hot but not too hot.

Last edited by Kryptonite; Nov 8, 2013 at 05:37 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 07:59 AM
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Install a 180* thermostat. If that doesn't work for you try a 195*.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:35 AM
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What he said------180*F.......possibly 195*F (engine oil holds up slightly better with 180* thermostat though)
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:51 AM
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Did the PO put a shut off valve in the heater lines? Is the car factory AC?

Last edited by Easy Mike; Nov 8, 2013 at 11:30 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:53 AM
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What is the reading on the temp gauge?
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 11:16 AM
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I agree with the probable heater cutoff valves in the heater lines. The PO probably had an issue with cabin heat, and that would explain both the likely cutoff valves, and the 160 thermostat.

The 160 thermostat, in my opinion, is a mistake, and is increasing cylinder wear in your engine. I would replace it with a 180, or 195 for that reason.

The main purpose of a thermostat is to get the engine up to operating temperature as quickly as possible, by resticting coolant flow until the operating temperature is reached. 90% of engine cylinder wear occurs before the engine reaches operating temp. At 160 you have about double the engine wear that occurs at 185. You want your engine to get to operating temp as quickly as possibe, and a 160 thermostat will not do that, it opens too soon, and slows down the warmup process.

Here is a link with some basic information - http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/_cool3.html
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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If it ain't broke....don't "fix" it.

There is no significant difference in performance nor engine wear between 160*F and 180*F. Leave it alone until you need to do something to the cooling system....then stick a 180* stat in if you want.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 12:55 PM
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Default No heat

It is an AC, AC blows cold it has a shut off valve but its open temp goes to 140-150 no higher. Aluminum Radiator is huge not totally full of coolant, not empty but not full.

Last edited by Kryptonite; Nov 8, 2013 at 12:59 PM. Reason: more info
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:05 PM
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But, what about engine never getting warm enough for the oil to boil off moisture and other contaminants? Seems like an issue to me.

Ralph
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:07 PM
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You need to get the temps up with a 180*F thermostat.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If it ain't broke....don't "fix" it.

There is no significant difference in performance nor engine wear between 160*F and 180*F. Leave it alone until you need to do something to the cooling system....then stick a 180* stat in if you want.


Even with a 160 thermostat you should get some heat in the cabin. Nonsense about 160 degrees wearing your engine faster than 180 degree thermostat. Almost all engine wear occurs during start up, especially cold start up. Nonsense also about getting the oil temp high enough to burn off moisture . Oil temp should not be running above 212 degrees for that to occur. My 2010 Z06 never runs above 175 degree oil temp-so much for that theory. My 78 L-82 runs about 170-175 water/150-160 oil temp (I have an 81/82 oil temp gauge where the clock used to be) and has for many years and with 66,000 miles the compression test numbers look almost as good as when the engine was brand new- that with 3.70 gears and a 4 speed.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:24 PM
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An engine will run at the temp it runs at - once the stat is open, the temp is whatever the engine runs at. Realistically, it only controls (to some extent) the lowest steady-state operating temp the engine will run at. I agree that a 180 or 195 is the right choice for a street engine...test it before you put it in


It sounds like someone put an outstanding cooling system in that's more than the engine needs...and potentially you've got a stuck-open tstat. So it just never gets to operating temp.


160 degree thermostats came into vogue with the introduction of computer-controlled engines - the rationale was that a cooler engine would "fool" the computer into providing a richer F/A mixture. I drank the Cool-Aid on my '95 Impala SS LT1 and found power...until LT1Edit came out and I understood (thanks to a great teacher) what was actually happening.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:28 PM
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Folks complaiinng about a C3 not getting hot enough?!?!?! In the cabin even!!

JK, had same issue, which got worse when I opened the cowl and installed an airgap intake. In summer I went to 180* stat...now that I want heat in the cabin I changed to 195*. However it did not seem to change the avg OT much once the motor is fully warmed up, just heats up faster now! Good luck! It possible you just have too much airflow thorugh that radiator to reach desired temp....old school trick: try putting a cardboard shield in front of the rad and go for a little cruise and see if that warms her up!
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 02:53 PM
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Default Heat

I didnt have the valve screwed out enough Thanks
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Kryptonite
I didnt have the valve screwed out enough Thanks
Good mechanic's work finding and fixing that
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Kryptonite
I didnt have the valve screwed out enough Thanks
What valve are you screwing out? And how. This is intriguing. And despite what the naysayers have said, you do need a 180*F t-stat. And a full rad.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Kryptonite
I didnt have the valve screwed out enough Thanks
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:29 PM
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After reading this post I went out for a ride.....20mile trip going ~60mph, outside temp ~40-45. 350sb mechanical fan, no AC. Temp gauge stayed around 130F, no real heat coming into the cabin through the vents, all hoses were warm.... not hot
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:37 PM
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Is the antifreeze/coolant mixed right for proper heat transfer? How old is the glycol? If it's not mixed or blended correctly you'll have improper heat transfer. Maybe do a flush and refill with brand new glycol.
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rafalc
After reading this post I went out for a ride.....20mile trip going ~60mph, outside temp ~40-45. 350sb mechanical fan, no AC. Temp gauge stayed around 130F, no real heat coming into the cabin through the vents, all hoses were warm.... not hot
Thermostat is not installed or if it is, it is stuck open. Put a new one in.
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