i dont think a 58 cc chamber on a 210 cc runner would
be useful in a lot of applications. you should be able to do well with a 64 cc head and maybe a 190 runner if you have a cam with enough lift.

the pro comp castings have no more issues than the others. i would disassemble and check any head before i would bolt it on no mater who made it. i would not buy a pro-comp assembled head unless the assembly was done by a competent , experienced cylinder head person.using good components.

pro - comp has no advertising budget to speak of so magazine don't test them, there is no money in it for them, AFR, edelbrock ,dart,brodix etc pay big advertising money and have a bunch of leverage with articles that are written. keep that in mind.

its not like the old days , there are many choices today and because of competition most are very good. plan a trip to the drag strip and ask around find a good cylinder head shop and get their thoughts. if you want AFR or another and it fits your budget go for it and be happy. but don't buy something because you want to brag about it. good luck

 

Ive seen both small block and big block procomp tested in super chevy for the money the did ok, but nothing like afr, dart, brodex or even patriot. The only bragging a head is good for is making power. Like i stated previously you like yours and thats great, im glad there working out for you, but you put money in them in port work to get them to flow comparitve to the others and hold up. To each there own, but once you pay for a decent port job, screw studs, valve seats if they need replaced youve got the same amount of money invested as you would have in a set of American made heads. There are head porters out there who use procomp castings as there budget line and better castings as there premium line, so sure they can be made to flow. But what do yours flow, what are the intake runner cc's annd whats the intake exhaust ratio? To say owning a set of afrs is soley for bragging rights is super funny.

 

I prefer to do things my way that is why I am having a hard time just copying one of these mag builds, and learning as much as I can before I put this engine together.

Looking at these heads http://www.straubtechnologies.com/st...lunimum-heads/
As well as shp's, ik180, profilers 185 all straight plug.

With the patriots from straub tech I would be able to get a hyd roller cam and still stay with in my original budget of $1500.

Question on cams is the duration @ .050 on hyd cams the same on a hyd roller cam?
Example the equivalent 225 dur hyd roller would be a 225 hyd cam? Or like solid cams where the due would be a little larger than a equal cam in hyd?

 

Ive not ever had profilers but have read alot of threads were guys love them. On either racing junk, speed talk or yellow bullet forums search each head see what are said about them. Google there flow numbers. Did chris have flow numbers for those heads? Duration at .050" should be the same, on a roller you usually end up with more lift and faster rwmp rates to give more area under the curve.

 

Well what have u learned? Big ports with big flow numbers are gonna make more top end power. U dont need much information for that other than specs and prices.

Good luck and let us read your results,
cardo0

 

My point was with a good flowing head that hadnt had the intake runners hogged out to acheive those flow numbers will yeild better performance at low and mid range rpms and compaitive top end for a givin rpm range. take 2 heads that flow the same at most lifts one with 180 cc runners and the other with 200 cc runners, the 180 cc runners runner would be the better head ecspecially on a 355" because the velocity would be better. I did say that power is made in the heads and i did say that builders compensate for sub par flowing heads by increasing camshft size, i m sure youve seen it also. Take two engines 400 horse each, one uses the edel brock total power package ane the other uses Afr 180s, the cam in the total power package has 236/242 @ .050" were the Afr combo has 218/223 @ .050", so the arf combo makes the power at a lower rpm and even though they make the same power with the same intake, afr does it with a with a smaller cam, would require less compression and is more streetable. I wouldnt suggest using hogged out heads for better flow numbers so i guess im eating a burger, i think you misunderstood or didnt read my post cardo.im not an afr sales man, but if i were buying heads to use now and on a future 383 build then yes afr heads would be a better choice, like i said if the head flows better across the board it dont take a bigger camshaft.

 

It's easy to hog out intake ports for big peak flow numbers, especially with 180+ cc intake runners. The key is to look at the flow throughout the lift range as well as the I/E ratio...THIS is where you can tell the quality of the head and their ability to make power vs. just looking good on the flow bench.

 

I have a dart shp 400 build in progress and would be more than happy
to share some information with you.Thread is on this forum if you're curious.My set up is with 1 7/8 side pipe headers.

 

That AFR 180 will increase power across the entire operating range substantially and not need high RPM, huge ports or a big cam to do it. The 195 will not cost much loss of throttle response or bottom end because the power gains from superior flow and more efficient chamber design more than offsets the loss of velocity. If your buying a now and later head spend the extra few hundred bucks, set them up with a HR spring that works with your cam and lean toward a HR with lift and duration specs to take advantage of what the heads offer and get max power in the operating range you want and your bottom end can handle.

 

450+ HP with PM rods and cast pistons. SMDH.

 

I've learned with aftermarket heads and good cam my goal of 400hp isn't going to be hard to achieve . and will cost less than I thought . I will start a build thread once I begin to get in to the engine I am which will be around christmas

 

No 400 HP with a midrange HR cam in the 220 duration area. The OP has already said his long term goal is to build a 383. Why buy heads twice. I did post "power in the operating range you want and your bottom end can handle". There are dozens of forum members running over 400 HP on their stock, well used L48 bottom ends with good heads, exhaust, intake and a roller upgrade. RPM, high cylinder pressures and detonation kills engines specifically cast pistons. The OP is talking a brand new short block that should handle a lot more than a 40 year old L48. That said you can get more power in a lower RPM range with quality heads and a cam to compliment them which is what you need with a lower quality bottom end that won't take the RPM.

 

These heads flow 300 CFM...by the power estimation formula you advocate, they're capable of 600 HP. As I noted, you can choke a set of heads down using a too-small carb, low-rise dual-plane and under-camming, but what comes of it is exactly what you say it won't be...lousy off-idle and mid-range throttle response and power, and a narrow power band that will just kick in about the time he'll need to get off it. These engines *suck* to drive behind; I've seen enough of them over the years.

It is surprising to see "Mr. If It Ain't Forged It's Crap" advocating for 400+ HP and 6,000 RPM from a factory replacement part motor with factory cast crank, PM rods and cast pistons.

I look forward to seeing your cam recommendation, and I hope the OP circles back with AFR to get their perspective on it as well.

You can pound a square peg into a round hole with a big enough hammer, but it's a lousy way to design an engine.

 

**** I would recommend a set of our 180cc Eliminators. Your specific combination would be able to harness the power potential of these heads. They flow remarkably well while retaining a relatively small intake runner volume. This increases the velocity of the intake charge resulting in not only a peak horsepower gain but also an increase in bottom end power. If you take the time to compare our heads with our competitors, pay attention to not only the peak flow numbers but also with flow ratings throughout the valve lift.

**** If you have any further questions, don’t hesitate to contact me. I look forward to hearing from you in the future and helping you to place your order.
From AFR

 

Which heads is this in reference too?

 

If AFR recommends them go for it theyd probably know better than anyone else.

 

The 195's being advocated.

180's will still produce more power than I would put through your shortblock and so would still need to be choked down somewhat...and could easily be too small for a really hot 383 or larger CID engine.

 

300 cfm heads on a 350 street motor,with a cheap cast lower sounds like the white house is building engines.

 

The cam recommendations I have received so far.
Comp cams xe268
Adv dur 268 280
Dur @ .050 224 230
Lift .477 .480
Sep 110

Crane use with 1.6 ratio rockers
Energizer 282
Adv dur 282 282
Dur @ .05 226 226
Lift .470 .470 .517 .517 w/ 1.6 rockers
Sep 106

Lunatic voodoo268 ground on 108 sep 104 ICL
Adv dur 268 276
Dur @ .05 227 233
Lift 489 .504
Sep 108

Howards
Adv dur 275 275
Dur @ .05 221 221
Lift .470 .470
Sep 108

Crower 00903
Adv dur 278 284
Due @ .05 218 226
Lift .462 .470
Sep 112

Bullet
Adv due 276 286
Dur @ .05 221 230
Lift .454 .454
Sep 110

 

If you compare to the 195 street head youll probably give up 10 lbs of torque and give up+5hp
Take the torque! A 180 is plenty for a mild 350

you never know what youll wanna build next.
When you get there then go buy the best head for that build. Used afrs bring decent money so it wont be a total loss.