hmm ..bent rod??i use the thumb over the hole trick to get compression stroke.

 

how could I check for a bent rod w/o taking of intake

 

Taking off the intake would not tell you anything. The oil pan would need to be removed...and possibly the cylinder head of the rod that looks suspect...such as cylinder #7...where the gas came out of.

When I get engine like yours that is giving me a fit. I STOP and VERIFY that the
notch on the harmonic balancer is CORRECT by using a piston stop tool I made and manually rotate the engine until the piston stops on my piston stop tool...and then put a dot of paint on the balancer where the "0" mark is on the indicator tab...then rotate the engine in the other direction...and put a dot of paint again on the balancer where the '0" mark is on the tab when the piston stops on the tool again. The distance between the two dots is number 1 TDC...BECAUSE I had my tool in cylinder 1.

If you have spark...you should be able to get this to run...especially if the valves were not messed with and the engine ran fine before.

In very rare cases...I have had the red power wire that goes to the distributor cap was bad. In regards the the number of strands in the wire were broken...and even though it showed to have 12 volts going to it...the wire could not carry the AMPS needed.

Take two headlights and wire them together and use the red wire going to the distributor to power up these headlights. If the headlights can burn well...then the wire is fine...if you can not get the headlights to burn...you may ave a problem in the red wire.

DUB

 

wow ,very good info, thanks DUB after fooling with it some I think its back out of time so I working on that. Stay tuned!!

 

ok this is a first , Got it turning over smoother, HOWEVER I went to palm the distributor and got shocked????wt?? Ever had this happen?

 

ok guys here we go, I have no spark going to several of the plugs. #1 is sparking but #5,#7,#2,#4,#6 & # 8.. Module???

 

Pull your hair out or pull $50 bucks out your pocket and change the module..,,no brainer in my opinion....LOL

 

Yeah the spark is not strong coming off the cap to the wire.I am thinking the module. I going to get one shortly . Any other thoughts today guys?

 

Start with the module. Why guess? They do go.

Jim

 

Module not bad. Had it tested at autozone and advance. how can I test the stator ,Would (could) that cause irratic spark,weak spark,no spark?

 

what brand cap and rotor did you buy? did you put the little spring that goes under the coil back in?

 

I put the old back on , yes I did put spring in . I m wondering if Its because Im not getting enough voltage

 

Same problem with the old parts?

 

Yes,

 

What shape is the part the module plugs into? Its the piece that has the radio capacitor on it.

seen in the picture in the following link

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...or/ACD221.html

And the other side going to the pickup coil? How do all the wires look?

 

This video may help. Could be to do with your pickup coil

 

Performance Distributors sells both sides of wiring harnesses for the ignition module and an ignition module for about $100. ~$50 for the module, $30 for the harness to the ecm, $20 for the harness to the coil.

 

Ya I saw that on Willcox. They sell the whole thing....pretty cheap too.

 

How bout this one....I put the old wires and cap back on..right>...and ot freakin cranked!!!!!!
Now i am trying to get it to idle by itself. wt????Thanks for all the help and info

 

Did you buy the wrong cap and wires or did you put it on **** eyed?