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When I start the car it barely turns over and starts. It runs just fine once started.
BUT
But if I even think about hitting the gas pedal at the wrong time it floods and I cannot start it or it takes almost the whole battery to start. Yes, if I know it is flooded I push the pedal to the floor and hold it there to open the butterfly till it starts. It is so worrysome to the point that I cannot go anywhere and turn the engine off for fear that I will not get it started. FYI, This carb was rebuil by LARS a number of years ago. I smell a distinct odor of gas in the garage many times. When I pull the air cleaner off I see gas in a hole when looking at the carb from the top. Amother clue is my gas mileage is bad. I expect that to be true but I do not think I get 100 miles on a tank full of gas of city driving. So, what am I doing wrong? I drove carb cars like this for many years and do not remember such sensitivity to flooding. What can I check or do to understand this?
Sounds like a stuck float or the needle and seat isn't sealing when the float rises to the top. So all that extra fuel just dumps into the engine.
The good news is it's a cheap fix. The bad news, it has to come apart.
Something along those lines anyhow. Could be seat has just come loose or that gasket has broken also or the needle tip has dried and cracked. Gotta open it up to find out.
If you know that the battery is good and the car is still hard to start (doesn't really crank over well), you may have a bad positive battery cable/terminal and/or a bad (or missing) main ground wire between frame and right-side motor mount. A bad terminal, rotted-out wiring (inside the insulation), and poor ground connection to the starter will make it very difficult to start...especially when either HOT or COLD.
Otherwise, take Lars up on the offer to check out your carb.
If you know that the battery is good and the car is still hard to start (doesn't really crank over well), you may have a bad positive battery cable/terminal and/or a bad (or missing) main ground wire between frame and right-side motor mount. A bad terminal, rotted-out wiring (inside the insulation), and poor ground connection to the starter will make it very difficult to start...especially when either HOT or COLD.
Otherwise, take Lars up on the offer to check out your carb.
Something has gone wrong. Send it back and I'll fix it.
Lars
Thanks Lars, can you PM me your address. And for the record folks, in NO WAY am I saying LARS made any kind of error. I was just giving facts so that people don't say it was rebuilt incorrectly or something like that. Actually I still think Im doing something wrong but if Lars helps me I will take his information at face value and do as i'm told!
Other facts:
Exhaust does not smoke.
kinda rough idle at 900 rpm but I figure thats my semi aggressive cam.
Also I am told that mathematically anyway I should be about 380-400 HP on my 383. I have close ratio gear trans and a 3.73 rear end. cam is for low end torque. The car goes pretty good but I am disappointed. I cant even spin the tires too much and some days barely at all. And it will not go over 75 MPH! I guess I will learn something either way.
Your words: "...it barely turns over and cranks." That's a bit different than it "...cranks and cranks." We can only offer suggestions based on your input.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by AWilson
Thanks Lars, can you PM me your address.
Just send me an e-mail request for the services info sheet. You can disregard the pricing, but it has all the shipping info and address. Since it's been a few years since the rebuild, I'll charge you return shipping costs, but otherwise check it, correct it, and test it at no cost.
Just send me an e-mail request for the services info sheet. You can disregard the pricing, but it has all the shipping info and address. Since it's been a few years since the rebuild, I'll charge you return shipping costs, bit otherwise check it, correct it, and test it at no cost.
Your words: "...it barely turns over and cranks." That's a bit different than it "...cranks and cranks." We can only offer suggestions based on your input.
When I turn the key it might turn a revolution then if starts and I immediately give it gas to keep it going. But if I miss that split second accelerator pedal push by pushing too soon then it floods and it then cranks and cranks. Hope that clears it up.
Just send me an e-mail request for the services info sheet. You can disregard the pricing, but it has all the shipping info and address. Since it's been a few years since the rebuild, I'll charge you return shipping costs, but otherwise check it, correct it, and test it at no cost.
Thats interesting. How can I figure that out? Also would that not be more of an issue once it is running rather that at startup?
If it's a stock fuel pump, the output pressure is probably ok, but if it's an aftermarket performance type like an Edelbrock #1721 which I used one time, the pump put out about 8 psi on my pressure gauge which overpowered the high flow needle and seat in my Quadrajet. This caused flooding like you described. My solution, which retained the larger diameter orifice in the needle & seat, was to substitute a weaker fuel pump spring, lowering the pressure to 5.5 psi. (This did not hurt performance either as this '78 Vette ran mid to high 11s in the 1/4).
Ok carb is on its way to Lars! I drove the car over the summer and am now just getting around to sending it in. While Lars has it I am buying new heads and intake!