ANOTHER bad window switch???
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,910
Likes: 449
From: Central NJ
ANOTHER bad window switch???
Had a window switch go bad few months ago so I got a replacement from Ecklers and the same switch went bad again.
Just coincidence or does anyone think something else could be going on causing the switch to go bad. Drivers side is fine just passenger side giving me the problems.
Tonight it particularly sucked because I was at Englishtown to make my first 1/4 mile passes and before I could even make one pass the switch went bad. They dont let you run with open windows and I didnt have anything with me to jump the switch.
Just coincidence or does anyone think something else could be going on causing the switch to go bad. Drivers side is fine just passenger side giving me the problems.
Tonight it particularly sucked because I was at Englishtown to make my first 1/4 mile passes and before I could even make one pass the switch went bad. They dont let you run with open windows and I didnt have anything with me to jump the switch.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
C3 power window switches are 3 pins...the C4 power window switches (up to 1989) are the 5 pin.
The switch can be bad..or the connector that attaches to it is bad. These new switches are crap. I run into this problem often also.
DUB
The switch can be bad..or the connector that attaches to it is bad. These new switches are crap. I run into this problem often also.
DUB
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 955
Likes: 50
From: Jersey Shore
I just replaced the switches in an '80 that used 5 pin switches... AFAIK 80-82 with the alarm are 5 pin. Not sure on the older cars though
Mark- Youre welcome to stop by one night if you need some help
Mark- Youre welcome to stop by one night if you need some help
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
Power door lock switches are 5 pin.
Power window are 3 pin.
Power window for a 1984-1989 are a 5 pin.
They do not make a chrome plated power window switch that is a 5 pin that looks like the original and it is not needed due to the motors are different than the 1984-1989. The pre-1984 power window motors do not require reverse polarity to make them work.
Now if the Corvette has been "modified"...then this may change ..depending on what was done.
Factory power window switches look like what is in Willcox's video. They are 3 pin.
DUB
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
You may have a bad wire feeding the current from that switch to the window motor. If it is frayed or fractured, inadequate current will pass that bad section of wire. A common place for that type of failure is inside the rubber tube running from the body to the door. The constant flexing of those wires (opening and closing the door) will eventually wear-out the wires.
Also, there is a dedicated ground wire (and connector) on each motor. If that connector gets corroded, the same 'loss of current' situation can occur.
Also, there is a dedicated ground wire (and connector) on each motor. If that connector gets corroded, the same 'loss of current' situation can occur.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,084
Likes: 786
From: Lebanon Township New Jersey
Mark - Can't help you with your switch question but I'm anxious to hear about your track results when you get back there. I had a power window problem at Etown one time and I had to drive 50 miles home with the driver window down in 40 degree weather after not making a single run.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,910
Likes: 449
From: Central NJ
Mark - Can't help you with your switch question but I'm anxious to hear about your track results when you get back there. I had a power window problem at Etown one time and I had to drive 50 miles home with the driver window down in 40 degree weather after not making a single run.
I'm gonna see if I can rig something up to jump the switch today and head back this afternoon.
I'm not expecting too much in the 1/4 mile yet-I dont have the right wheels and tires on the car for the track, I dont have adjustable shocks up front etc.
I have a pretty tall gear out back at 3:06 so maybe she'll grab coming out and I can at least keep her straight go through the gears without any drama. I'll post up later if I get the window sorted out.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,910
Likes: 449
From: Central NJ
You may have a bad wire feeding the current from that switch to the window motor. If it is frayed or fractured, inadequate current will pass that bad section of wire. A common place for that type of failure is inside the rubber tube running from the body to the door. The constant flexing of those wires (opening and closing the door) will eventually wear-out the wires.
Also, there is a dedicated ground wire (and connector) on each motor. If that connector gets corroded, the same 'loss of current' situation can occur.
Also, there is a dedicated ground wire (and connector) on each motor. If that connector gets corroded, the same 'loss of current' situation can occur.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,910
Likes: 449
From: Central NJ
I pulled the switch and what was happening was the cheap board the contacts are attatched to was slipping out of the bottom of the switch housing when the lever was pushed so the contacts werent touching. What a POS.
So I pulled the switch and I just lightly hammered the housing so it squeezes the board tighter. Seems ok for now.
So I pulled the switch and I just lightly hammered the housing so it squeezes the board tighter. Seems ok for now.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 955
Likes: 50
From: Jersey Shore
If the car is factory:
Power door lock switches are 5 pin.
Power window are 3 pin.
Power window for a 1984-1989 are a 5 pin.
They do not make a chrome plated power window switch that is a 5 pin that looks like the original and it is not needed due to the motors are different than the 1984-1989. The pre-1984 power window motors do not require reverse polarity to make them work.
Now if the Corvette has been "modified"...then this may change ..depending on what was done.
Factory power window switches look like what is in Willcox's video. They are 3 pin.
DUB
Power door lock switches are 5 pin.
Power window are 3 pin.
Power window for a 1984-1989 are a 5 pin.
They do not make a chrome plated power window switch that is a 5 pin that looks like the original and it is not needed due to the motors are different than the 1984-1989. The pre-1984 power window motors do not require reverse polarity to make them work.
Now if the Corvette has been "modified"...then this may change ..depending on what was done.
Factory power window switches look like what is in Willcox's video. They are 3 pin.
DUB
Whoops you are right... I was thinking the doorlock switches for some reason.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,847
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I pulled the switch and what was happening was the cheap board the contacts are attatched to was slipping out of the bottom of the switch housing when the lever was pushed so the contacts werent touching. What a POS.
So I pulled the switch and I just lightly hammered the housing so it squeezes the board tighter. Seems ok for now.
So I pulled the switch and I just lightly hammered the housing so it squeezes the board tighter. Seems ok for now.
IMHO,
Willcox
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I get so pissed off when I have customers bring me in parts that they bought and want me to install that I know are worthless and will fail....it is just a matter of time. Then...'they' think that just because I installed it that it should work and last for a long time.....YEAH....RIGHT. Like just because I touched it it made the part worthwhile for some odd stretch of the imagination.
My whole thing is that if they can make it to 90%...what the 'F' is the problem in getting that last 10% and getting it right.
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 337
From: "ɹǝpunuʍop", Adelaide, South Australia
how i fixed my burnt out switches
down here i just karnt run down the local parts store and get a new switch,
takes at least about 2 weeks to get 1 from over there...
so after about the 3rd switch packed up, i thought stuff this there has to be a better way.
so i used the switch to switch relays which handle the current draw better.
all tucked under the middle console, even the metal support had studs to mount them off.
just plug the pig tails into the existing 3 pin socket on the wiring loom.
havent had to touch them for 3yrs now....
down here i just karnt run down the local parts store and get a new switch,
takes at least about 2 weeks to get 1 from over there...
so after about the 3rd switch packed up, i thought stuff this there has to be a better way.
so i used the switch to switch relays which handle the current draw better.
all tucked under the middle console, even the metal support had studs to mount them off.
just plug the pig tails into the existing 3 pin socket on the wiring loom.
havent had to touch them for 3yrs now....
