79 Many electrical/lighting issues resolved
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
From: New Jersey
79 Many electrical/lighting issues resolved
Many thanks to DiCorv and papawana for sending me very useful information. Thank you to DUB for the reminder found in his insisting on NOT replacing a volt meter with a test light. This forum is outstanding!
My 79 L82 sat for YEARS and has VERY low miles. The dashboard problems (too many to list), turn signal and brake light issues are fixed. the dashboard and directionals were found to be corroded turn/backup and guage fuses. The fuses checked fine with a test light but had significant voltage drop, under a load, when measured at the fuse block terminals. Cleaned up the fuse panel with some contact cleaner and replaced the fuses. See picture.
Brake lights were just some corrosion at the bulb base to the ground leg. Replaced bulbs.
The car isn't rusty at all, just seems that the fuse and bulb material is not of very high quality. I have found a product that I like for fuse, bulb and connector protection. It is a protectant for feed wires into electrical panels called Naolox and is available at electrical supply houses and large home centers. I have used it for years with no issues.
Again, thank you for the help!
My 79 L82 sat for YEARS and has VERY low miles. The dashboard problems (too many to list), turn signal and brake light issues are fixed. the dashboard and directionals were found to be corroded turn/backup and guage fuses. The fuses checked fine with a test light but had significant voltage drop, under a load, when measured at the fuse block terminals. Cleaned up the fuse panel with some contact cleaner and replaced the fuses. See picture.
Brake lights were just some corrosion at the bulb base to the ground leg. Replaced bulbs.
The car isn't rusty at all, just seems that the fuse and bulb material is not of very high quality. I have found a product that I like for fuse, bulb and connector protection. It is a protectant for feed wires into electrical panels called Naolox and is available at electrical supply houses and large home centers. I have used it for years with no issues.
Again, thank you for the help!
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Dash Lights
Many thanks to DiCorv and papawana for sending me very useful information. Thank you to DUB for the reminder found in his insisting on NOT replacing a volt meter with a test light. This forum is outstanding!
My 79 L82 sat for YEARS and has VERY low miles. The dashboard problems (too many to list), turn signal and brake light issues are fixed. the dashboard and directionals were found to be corroded turn/backup and guage fuses. The fuses checked fine with a test light but had significant voltage drop, under a load, when measured at the fuse block terminals. Cleaned up the fuse panel with some contact cleaner and replaced the fuses. See picture.
Brake lights were just some corrosion at the bulb base to the ground leg. Replaced bulbs.
The car isn't rusty at all, just seems that the fuse and bulb material is not of very high quality. I have found a product that I like for fuse, bulb and connector protection. It is a protectant for feed wires into electrical panels called Naolox and is available at electrical supply houses and large home centers. I have used it for years with no issues.
Again, thank you for the help!
My 79 L82 sat for YEARS and has VERY low miles. The dashboard problems (too many to list), turn signal and brake light issues are fixed. the dashboard and directionals were found to be corroded turn/backup and guage fuses. The fuses checked fine with a test light but had significant voltage drop, under a load, when measured at the fuse block terminals. Cleaned up the fuse panel with some contact cleaner and replaced the fuses. See picture.
Brake lights were just some corrosion at the bulb base to the ground leg. Replaced bulbs.
The car isn't rusty at all, just seems that the fuse and bulb material is not of very high quality. I have found a product that I like for fuse, bulb and connector protection. It is a protectant for feed wires into electrical panels called Naolox and is available at electrical supply houses and large home centers. I have used it for years with no issues.
Again, thank you for the help!
Thanks in advance
Joe
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
ONLY on the speedo/tach gauge lights go out???? So...the gauge lights where you oil pressure and fuel gauge is still work????
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Which is why I INSIST that a volt/ohm meter is what is needed.
Glad it is all working.
DUB
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Yes that is correct only the speedo/tach lights go out oil pressure/fuel guage lights stay on. Wierd huh Thanks Dub
Last edited by Jodie Moore; Dec 2, 2014 at 11:33 AM. Reason: thans
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Simple fix...or at least simple to me considering many of the things I have to fix ...where I would prefer getting a root canal instead.
DUB
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Not at all. You have a connection issue at your speedo/tach panel....or the gray wire that goes to the speedo/tach cluster is broken or partially broken.
Simple fix...or at least simple to me considering many of the things I have to fix ...where I would prefer getting a root canal instead.
DUB
Simple fix...or at least simple to me considering many of the things I have to fix ...where I would prefer getting a root canal instead.
DUB
I'll look into that as soon as I get my car out of the shop. Thought I was taking it home yesterday but after less than a 1/2 mile I had to turn around and drive it right back in for the same problem. They adjusted valves because of tapping sound was quite for about 200 yards then started again now they're saying collapsed valves or cam shaft, all 60 to 80 miles after oil change after initial break in period.Only 713 miles on new engine. talk about roller coaster ride.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Thanks Dub
I'll look into that as soon as I get my car out of the shop. Thought I was taking it home yesterday but after less than a 1/2 mile I had to turn around and drive it right back in for the same problem. They adjusted valves because of tapping sound was quite for about 200 yards then started again now they're saying collapsed valves or cam shaft, all 60 to 80 miles after oil change after initial break in period.Only 713 miles on new engine. talk about roller coaster ride.
I'll look into that as soon as I get my car out of the shop. Thought I was taking it home yesterday but after less than a 1/2 mile I had to turn around and drive it right back in for the same problem. They adjusted valves because of tapping sound was quite for about 200 yards then started again now they're saying collapsed valves or cam shaft, all 60 to 80 miles after oil change after initial break in period.Only 713 miles on new engine. talk about roller coaster ride.
The cam should not be wiped out (hopefully) IF the shop doing this knows what they are doing. NOT WRITING that thy do not know. But I have seen many shops go in and tighten up a ticking lifter to get the noise go away...and it did...but the shop did not take the time to visually check and see if the lifter was suck in the down/loaded position when the nut was removed and push rod taken out to see if the lifter plunger came back up.....and when they tighten it up to get the noise to go away...they f'd things up because the lifter was not able to do its job due the plunger in eh lifter was being basically...almost bottomed out due to them tightening it up.
DUB
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
I have run into lifter sticking in a loaded position. I then had to take them out...take them apart...clean them and oil them up and re-install. That fixed the problem due to the assembly lube was causing a problem from the manufacturer.
The cam should not be wiped out (hopefully) IF the shop doing this knows what they are doing. NOT WRITING that thy do not know. But I have seen many shops go in and tighten up a ticking lifter to get the noise go away...and it did...but the shop did not take the time to visually check and see if the lifter was suck in the down/loaded position when the nut was removed and push rod taken out to see if the lifter plunger came back up.....and when they tighten it up to get the noise to go away...they f'd things up because the lifter was not able to do its job due the plunger in eh lifter was being basically...almost bottomed out due to them tightening it up.
DUB
The cam should not be wiped out (hopefully) IF the shop doing this knows what they are doing. NOT WRITING that thy do not know. But I have seen many shops go in and tighten up a ticking lifter to get the noise go away...and it did...but the shop did not take the time to visually check and see if the lifter was suck in the down/loaded position when the nut was removed and push rod taken out to see if the lifter plunger came back up.....and when they tighten it up to get the noise to go away...they f'd things up because the lifter was not able to do its job due the plunger in eh lifter was being basically...almost bottomed out due to them tightening it up.
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Thanks Dub Got voicemail from owner of shop this AM and he's saying I am the problem that I have been over-revving the engine and caused malfunction . Lifters bent pushrods etc.Which is a Bunch of BS. I'm 56 yrs old and this is not the first time I've had an engine rebuilt. I've even rebuilt several myself. Hie own mechanics tell me there are no bent pushrods just some bad lifters which they are replacing. It's clear what I have to do. What a shame
I wish you the best. HONESTLY and SINCERELY...I DO!
DUB
5th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Question
Question i have an 81 vette and my brake lights just went out . I checked the fuse and its good , If its the brake switch behind the brake pedal is there a way to test it before replacing it to see if thats the problem or is there something else to try , thx.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
If you jump the orange wire on the brake switch to the white wire (quickly)....the brake lights should work (flicker) because you are taking the switch out of the equation....if they don't..it is hard to tell you any more because you have to verify voltage.
DUB
5th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
YES...by using a volt/ohmmeter. And the fuse may be good (visually)...but how can you tell that battery voltage is going through it??? Which is why a voltmeter is needed.
If you jump the orange wire on the brake switch to the white wire (quickly)....the brake lights should work (flicker) because you are taking the switch out of the equation....if they don't..it is hard to tell you any more because you have to verify voltage.
DUB
If you jump the orange wire on the brake switch to the white wire (quickly)....the brake lights should work (flicker) because you are taking the switch out of the equation....if they don't..it is hard to tell you any more because you have to verify voltage.
DUB
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
YEAH...TOTAL COMMUNICATION BREAK-DOWN. Something really 'fishy' on that. It makes me sick to my stomach reading what you wrote. I hate it when 'some people' can do what they do and WONDER why mechanics get a bad wrap. Doesn't this guy know that IF the push rods were bent...it is ON HIM because he DID NOT adjust the lifters correctly! And using the EXCUSE that the engine was REVVED UP is total CRAP!!! PROPERLY ADJUSTED valves are JUST THAT...PROPERLY ADJUSTED. And I have seen new engines that have had the cam broken in on an engine dyno and then get TWISTED UP in RPM's and NO PROBLEMS at all. HE IS FULL OF 'YOU KNOW WHAT'!!!!
I wish you the best. HONESTLY and SINCERELY...I DO!
DUB
I wish you the best. HONESTLY and SINCERELY...I DO!
DUB
5th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Brake light problem
Thanks DUB did the wire jump, replaced the brake light switch $12 fixed the problem . It would be nice when they originally installed wire leeds they would have given more length so when a part is replaced and its not the exact configuration you would be able to manipulate it more easily.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Thanks DUB did the wire jump, replaced the brake light switch $12 fixed the problem . It would be nice when they originally installed wire leeds they would have given more length so when a part is replaced and its not the exact configuration you would be able to manipulate it more easily.
Glad you repaired it....and it was a 'simple' repair.DUB