I searched the Forum and internet for information on windshields. I have learned you have to shim out the windshield or the trim will not fit. I looked at 20 C3 windshields at Carlisle this weekend, and most of them had an irregular gap, with most of the gaps bigger at the top upper corners. Some of them had a 1/4 inch gap across the top. There were only a few cars where the trim fit perfectly. SO, my question, what is the trick. First of all, what windshield can I buy that will fit the best? I also have learned that new windshield are not as thick....does anyone sell the original thickness. Once I get the best windshield, I intend to prefit it, and all the trim and shim accordingly. Just looking for best information from any of you.

 

Hi,
I've had a good experience with a windshield from Auto City Classic in Isanti, Minn.
It's imperative that the glass and all the trim be test fit before the sealer is applied.
VERY few owners or installers are willing to take the time or trouble to do this.
Unless the shape and dimensions of the windshield frame have been seriously compromised in repairing the frame a good fit is almost always possible.
The thickness of the glass can be taken into account and compensated for when the windshield is set. St.Louis used a dense foam damming strip between the glass and frame to help with the spacing. Almost no one does this any more because it's extra work.
It's not easy under the best of circumstances but certainly doable.
Regards,
Alan

 

Here is something that will give you an idea of what is involved - more in "layman's terms"! Hope it helps!

http://users.speakeasy.net/~pws/Corvette.htm

 

Like Alan said, you need a installer willing to take the time and test fit. My installation took about 3 hours.
Spacers under the windshield can get it to the correct height to minimise the gaps. Original stainless hardware is also important. The aftermarket parts are close but just not good enough.
I first had a Pilkington installed (by the same installer) and the fit was not as good as my current PPG one. 'Luckily' I cracked it during the install
Nick

 

Alan, I have seen you discuss this before and you mentioned a Toyota part number, or what Toyata make model and year it was made for. could you pass that on to me. I also want to talk to Auto City to see what windshields they are now selling...PPG or Pilkington?? Do you remember what you used. I fully intend to have a fit as good as yours. I was surprised how most of the C3's at Carlisle have horrible fit. Some were really bad, and on many the top trip was warped across the width. That will not be acceptable on my car, so I need as much info I can get. I will most likely do it myself to ensure it is done right.

 

Great timing for this thread. I expect to be installing my first windshield this coming weekend. I have been scratching my head to figure out where to start. Thanks to all.

 

Alan, does this look like what you used?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-00-13-Tundra-Windshield-Dam-9099891004-/121309458093?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3e9b6ead&vxp=mtr

 

No one makes a windshield the original thickness... and unfortunately here in Indiana we must use urethane to install a new windshield.

The trick.. and it doesn't always work perfectly, even for us..

Use the original tape kit as a spacer to make sure the windshield is outward enough. You want to use 3m8612 for your spacers which is 3/8" thick. If you cut this ribbon tape in 2' sections and place them around the windshield you should be fine.

I like to squeeze them up a bit before installing them.

But.. Like I said before it is not a fool proof method so take your time, test fit and you should be fine.

We just did a windshield installation on a 69 in our shop and while it looks great, I still think it could have been better. Maybe I didn't squeeze them enough on the top.

When you put the urethane in place you want to also make sure you tape the windshield after you place it. If you don't it will sag and then you'll have a mess. There is more to this as well.. from the primer we use before we use the urethane to the bead thickness of the urethane.

You can view this on our facebook shop page at this link. If you have any more questions.. feel free to post them here or on that link.. I've got a tiny bit of experience.. and guess what.. it cost nothing to ask..


Willcox

Windshield installation 18243
https://www.facebook.com/WillcoxCorvette

 

Willcox, your link does not seem to work... Thanks

Tim

 

https://www.facebook.com/WillcoxCorvette Once there click on photos, then albums.

 

success. The new windshield is in. Ok, it is not perfect, now that I have done one I know how I could have done it better. But even so, it is 10 times better than it was. My dry fit found 9/16 to 5/8 inch gap to fill, the windshield was 3/16 and I used a 5/16 seal and a tube of windshield sealer from corvette central. I placed the seal with bead of sealer applied to the inside surface filling the gap between the seal and frame. Then I placed the glass and carefully lightly pressed it into the seal. The gaps look good and it looks to have a solid seal all around. spent more time thinking about i than doing it. I appreciate all the info posted, the tips were great.

 

Is there any preference in brand of Urethane Adhesive to use?

 

the aftermarkets have the wrong curvature on the top, which is why those upper corners never fit right.

I have my trim fitting all around except on those damn corners.

One of the tricks is to let the glue cure a little so it doesn't run as much. You will need a lot of glue under that windshield, so if it hasn't cured a little, you will be in for a mess. Ask me how I know...

 

The windshield we just removed, the other installer used a cheap grade urethane... it had been in the car for months and was still not dry.

We only use 08609 3M windo-weld super fast urethane.


Willcox

 

Just did this an attempted to use extra urethane to build up it worked in all spot except the Driver top corner which has a gap. This is not easy stuff, I had pro do it that works on Ferraris, and other cars most will not touch. He has done several c3 that were in frame off stage which is easier as not issues with paint or interior, it looks good, we send back first windshield he was not happy with lamination. The PPG product was only marginally better than the Plinkton ( spelling) lost of these are now made in Mexico, and quality is only fair. No US Think Glass maker exists, I looked long and hard, even the stamped ,dated items are plankton same quality, but 200 dollars more for a stamp.

 

Unfortunately I think this is the case with many of our corvette parts. I used a company for my glass called windshieldstogo.com. $180 and because I drove to a local glass warehouse to get it, no tax or shipping. It's made in China as usual now a days but looks good. Fit is decent. The company that makes the glass is a oem supplier to many Japanese built cars.

 

In the writeup that I provided earlier, it is noted that 3/8" Butyl "tape" was laid down in a bead of Urethane first, this provided the "body" under the glass - which allowed the glass to be pushed IN until the glass was at the proper height - rather than trying to space the glass OUT with a mushy Urethane base. Made the installation much more manageable!

 

Thanks, I found it on ebay unless you sell them? Also is one tube enough for front and rear window?

 

Basically, it is imperative that the windshield be spaced out far enough. Not sure why Chevy laid it in so far, why not have the window out where it belongs without spacers. Of course I knew glass is somewhat thinner, but not the huge gaps I am hearing about. I also wish I new who and what windshield to buy to have the best chance of getting a good fit....still need an answer to that.

 

Chevy didn't do it... The aftermarket glass makers did.. The replacement glass is too thin. Applying extra urethane is not the answer either, the windshield will sink. The answer is making spacers from the original style window tape and then setting the new glass. Even then you must test fit.. and pinch up the spacers you make... This is all detailed on our facebook page. But it's not that bad of a deal. Even when you do everything 100 percent correct, you'll still find there is a radius issue. But this issue can usually be dealt with by making a tweak to the upper molding if needed.

I wish there was a better solution but there isn't.

IMHO,


Willcox