I suspected that.

However I was not able to 'tweak the molding more. I have been thinking about using urethane glue under it to keep it to the windscreen. However this is one messy thing to do.

I had originally planned on reusing my windscreen since it was in great schape when I took it out. However it was stored standing on the lower edge and when I took it out again after years of body off restoring, the glass had delaminated around the perimeter.

New glass is about half the thickness of the original.

Can't believe the just are not able to recreate something to exact dimensions. I suppose this is one more example of cutting corners.

 

I wish someone would identify the best windshields available. Pilkington and PPG are names I hear about....the vendors sell windshields they call Premium, but is the glass any better or is it just the BS about the LOF nomenclature to meet the NCRS types. Is the premium glass any thicker or better in any practical way.

 

Hi IWMNHG,
I bought my windshield from Auto City Classic in Isanti, Minnesota.
It was produced without a manufacturer's logo and was etched with the appropriate logo and date code for my 71.
It a Pilkington windshield with a DOT number printed on the glass's edge.
DOT177 M61. This translates to glass made in Brazil by L-N SAFETY GLASS S.A.DE C.V. OF MEXACALI.
In my case it went in with no problem after a complete dry fit including placement of all ss trim.
This sounds like a record….. I used no spacing blocks, but rather used a damming strip as a continuous spacer as I believe was used in St. Louis.
I don't know which manufacturer's glass Auto City Classic is selling now.
Regards,
Alan

 

I mentioned earlier about windshieldstogo.com, if you're looking for correct date code glass, they may not be your best source. But I'm pretty happy with what I received and the price I paid.

Now, as mentioned by others with replacement windshields, the glass may not lay exactly flush with your frame. I know, I know, we space it out 3/8" or so on installation, but guys are saying the corners are too curved, or not curved enough. I figured if the windshield lays in the frame perfectly, once shimmed out, the trim should fit uniformly all around.
So I taped the edges of my windshield and layed it in place. Both upper corners were not laying flush with the frame. A little tape, a few shims and some spring clamps strategically applied to the corners, I then parked the car in the sun for a few hours. I put the car back in the garage and allowed it to cool. The window now lays perfectly flush in the frame all around. A good start to what I hope to be a professional looking installation.

 

Hi S,
I'm curious about the amount of blacked-out area around the perimeter of the glass in your picture. Is it what it looks to be?
Is that going to look o.k. from inside and outside the car?
It seems to come VERY far up from the bottom and quite far in from the sides?
Regards,
Alan

Compare with original.

 

Alan that is something I am not even concerned about. I placed my pillar post caps in and the edges of the black are about equal to the distance that the trim extends inboard in the window. In other words, it just hides the trim from view when looking in from outside. As for the lower black, placing the dash pad in the interior, again, blocks the dash pad edge from view when looking In from outside. When inside the car looking out, it's a non factor. Purists would have a sh#t fit I'm sure. But I think it actually looks a bit more modern. Very similar to new cars.

 

Hi S,
That's certainly an interesting take on the situation.
Regards,
Alan

 

I put my rear glass in last night, was easier then I thought.. if you get any of the urethane on your hands like I did it does not come off. I was out of latex gloves.. I ordered a PGW glass and is ready for pickup in Austin TX. Will try to make the trip tomorrow.

 

And after all that I said, the more I thought about it, I called windshieldstogo and asked about a more correct application. Nope couldn't get it, but offered a full refund as it had been less than 30 days.
I called auto city classic glass, and for a non date coded glass $189, plus $90 for shipping. I went that route. Exact amount of black as the non original windshield I removed, pilkington. Glass is installed now and looks great!
I did find a good YouTube video explaining the process GM used back in the day.
I'll try and find the link.

 

This is a pretty good video explaining GM's process back in the day. The guy does sell a kit, but it's a bit pricey.

 

The PGW glass was 125.00, but you have to pick it up at one of thier suppliers. It about 45 min away from me so no big deal...

 

This is what my Pilkerton looked like to. The Black was so wide there was no way to see the serial number and it was easy to see from the inside and gave the car a closed in feel. In the long run, or in this case short, the windshield started delaminating 3 weeks after the install, with the car having never left the garage. So it went by by.

 

Thanks for posting the video, one step I'm going to do is to cut some spacers the thickness of my dam i have purchased, test fit the glass with the spacers and see how the top SS molding fits before I start think about opening the tube of adhesive. If it fits correctly I will continue to install if not I will find a little thicker dam. I also need to get some glass suction cup handles.

 

i had a pilkington windshield installed by a local shop and while not perfect I've seen factory installs that were worse. the guy had just sold a 77 and had done many c3's i personally know of 2. i am very pleased. the shop has closed as safelite has moved in to our area and strangled the competition. safelite made an appointment with me i waited all day and they never showed they called several times oh our truck broke down.
i won't comment on another episode with them.

 

In todays economy there is not a Best Wind Shield any more it is now which one has the least issues. Even if somebody has good luck with a particular brand by the time You buy it it might not be made in the same factory or even in the same continent. The Date coded ones are not nessisarly any better. They are the same imports that have had the LOF Date code added here in the USA. Safelite still might make the C3's in the USA. My Glass shop convinced me that it was worse than the Chinese ones.

 

I was at the Barrett-Jackson event today with my neighbor. Having just installed my glass, which I feel is about as good as anyone could have done if I do say so myself, I closely observed all the windshield installations on every C3 I saw. 1, count em, only 1 was clearly an original install. It looked good, with very little gap between upper trim and glass. But it did exist in a few spots. Although aged, it represented an original installation, a benchmark. Most windshields had far less than satisfactory installations. Many had sunk to the point where as much as 1/4" and more gap existed between the glass and trim. Sloppy sealant oozing, etc. Just an observation.
I ended up using 3/8" 3M window weld ribbon along with placing rubber spacing blocks in strategic locations. I followed directions to the T. My top trim fits very close to the window, and I feel tweaking the trim a little would snug it up to the glass nicely. But its probably going to live as is, not enough to worry myself about. Unless I change my mind..
Note: I sort of wanted to order a kit from the above referenced installer in the youtube video I posted, but the guy was kind of aloof. Said to send an email with my credit card info and he would ship it to me down the road. As he was extremely busy. Uh.....no. Plus a bit pricey, almost as much as the glass itself.

 

Not quite sure what would be in the kit? Daming strip that you can buy for 15.00 maybe some sharpies + Urethane sealer.

What was the thickness of the spacers you used?

Thanks,

Tim

 

Where can you buy a good damming strip. I know some have called out a Toyota part, but still no part number.

 

I put a link on the beginning of this thread where I got mine.

 

Tim, thats the thing about his kit. Dam tape, supposedly close to what was originally used, but not the exact same. Rubber spacing blocks, rubber gloves, pre cut nozzles some plastic stick and the sealant. And it was $130 + shipping. As mentioned not a very secure ordering process. I really liked his technique, he seemed very good. But at some point common sense has to prevail, and I felt the 3m window weld ribbon was a solid route to go as well. As for the spacing blocks I used, they were what was provided in the 3m window weld kit. about 3/8" thick, but they were a bit compressible so probably 11/32 or so with the window weight on it.