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i think the thunk in the trunk is usually (at least it was on mine) the mounting brackets for the diff and/or the xmission mount. check those before tearing into the drive line.
IF you replace the joints in the half shafts, make sure you bolt the flange to something solid BEFORE you attempt to remove or install them. Those flanges are pretty tough in torque, but easy to bend directionally. The flanges must be supported or they will bend and make it impossible to fit the new joints.
I just replaced both rear u-joints in my 70 last weekend. What is critical is that the flange that holds the u-joint and bolts into the outside of both wheels is not square. You must bolt that flage to a piece of wood in order not to break the part when you extract the u-joint. I learned this hard way and had to purchased 2 complete halfshafts and flanges with the u-joints already installed and it took less than twenty minutes to bolt them in. I purchased the complete halfshafts parts from VanSteel and they were great to work with and would highly recommend.
From: You are here to build strength, not demonstrate it
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by DABall
I just replaced both rear u-joints in my 70 last weekend. What is critical is that the flange that holds the u-joint and bolts into the outside of both wheels is not square. You must bolt that flage to a piece of wood in order not to break the part when you extract the u-joint. I learned this hard way and had to purchased 2 complete halfshafts and flanges with the u-joints already installed and it took less than twenty minutes to bolt them in. I purchased the complete halfshafts parts from VanSteel and they were great to work with and would highly recommend.
I looked on the VS website first and they did not have them for the early C3's.
only 75 and up
(well, thats what the website says )
I took the half shafts out of my 1969 about a week ago. Ended up having to cut 3 of the 4 u-bolts off. Sprayed PB Blaster on the u-joints for a week then tried pressing them out with a vise. They wouldn't budge. I was afraid to take a hammer to them so I took them to a machine shop. He even had problems with getting them out - and I don't think these were original because two of them had grease fittings. Machine shop charged $75. I still have to clean them up, paint them and install the new u-joints. Van Steel has them rebuilt with solid u-joints for $85.99. If I had to do it again, I'd send them out.
For what it is worth...make sure that you do not install U-joints with grease fitting in them....and I use SPICER U-joints also. In my opinion they are worth getting. It is what I install at my shop.
When I remove them I use a Cutting Torch and cut the U-Joint in 1/2 before I even start trying to press them out. Once cut in 1/2 You are only pressing one side out at a time and the chance of bending is greatly reduced. Generally they just tap out with a small hammer.
i avoided the hassle and had a pair made by a company in tampa i think it was less than 400 for the pair heavier gauge steel balanced painted ,spicer joints. i think the difference in price compared to running the risk of bending something and buying the joints was worth it. they said they are good for 600 h.p. i believe it. we used to make 1/2 shafts using ford 1 ton van driveshaft tubes these are better .
Very easy to remove from the car and send to a shop. I had six joints replaced with Spicers for about $135. They even balanced my driveshaft for me. Dropped them off in the morning and got them back a few hours later. Jerry