removing radiator
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
It looks to me like the green is just some coolant that had been spilled on the outside at some point.
This is the worst portion of the whole radiator. Let me know if you this I'm missing something but I believe this is in good shape.
This is the worst portion of the whole radiator. Let me know if you this I'm missing something but I believe this is in good shape.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
And I will write it ONE more time...If your car where in my shop...that radiator would be professionally checked. I have seen MANY like this...and is usually a sign of a leak up high in the core or side tank.
It is your car...do as you wish...But are you not even curious if you may have an issue with that one row of cooling tubes that is NOT level with the others???? You can clearly see it....it is the very bottom row over by the lower tube for your radiator hose. The fins are collapsed and the tube is NOT level.
Go through all of this work...and when you go in and break in your new cam....you have cooling issues. Just does not make sense.
Best of luck to you.
DUB
It is your car...do as you wish...But are you not even curious if you may have an issue with that one row of cooling tubes that is NOT level with the others???? You can clearly see it....it is the very bottom row over by the lower tube for your radiator hose. The fins are collapsed and the tube is NOT level.
Go through all of this work...and when you go in and break in your new cam....you have cooling issues. Just does not make sense.
Best of luck to you.
DUB
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 119
Likes: 3
From: Boise ID
And I will write it ONE more time...If your car where in my shop...that radiator would be professionally checked. I have seen MANY like this...and is usually a sign of a leak up high in the core or side tank.
It is your car...do as you wish...But are you not even curious if you may have an issue with that one row of cooling tubes that is NOT level with the others???? You can clearly see it....it is the very bottom row over by the lower tube for your radiator hose. The fins are collapsed and the tube is NOT level.
Go through all of this work...and when you go in and break in your new cam....you have cooling issues. Just does not make sense.
Best of luck to you.
DUB
It is your car...do as you wish...But are you not even curious if you may have an issue with that one row of cooling tubes that is NOT level with the others???? You can clearly see it....it is the very bottom row over by the lower tube for your radiator hose. The fins are collapsed and the tube is NOT level.
Go through all of this work...and when you go in and break in your new cam....you have cooling issues. Just does not make sense.
Best of luck to you.
DUB
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Ah, I hadn't noticed that until you pointed it out. Thank you! Is this something I can have inspected at any shop?
I'm certainly able to replace it if needed, though the cost is high enough that I would hate to toss it if it was still reliable.
I'm certainly able to replace it if needed, though the cost is high enough that I would hate to toss it if it was still reliable.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
NO...( or VERY DOUBTFUL)....it needs to go to a radiator shop that can pressurize it...and drop it down in a tank and see if it is leaking....and then...flow test it...and then they can advise from there.
I have been doing Corvette repair for a very, very long time now...and ONE THING that I have found to be 100% true. My customers want COMPETENT repairs. And if that means me covering all potential possibilities of failure by preforming or having tests preformed to reduce the chance of failure...OR...to have the information from these TESTS to provide my customers with the options that are now showing themselves...due to the outcome of the tests... and....my customers are willing to pay for it. BECAUSE I can GUARANTEE that if specific tests are NOT preformed due to additional cost of these tests or diagnostics....and a part fails. I would hear them saying..." I would have paid for the tests". SO...I cover all possibilities from the beginning...and IF they choose to NOT have these tests/diagnostics preformed....then it is ON THEM....NO ME.
So...ask yourself a question....How soon are you willing do this radiator removal again???? The answer to this question will then dictate how you proceed in making sure that you do not have to do it again. Regardless of what it takes.
PLEASE UNDERSTAND....I have a completely different 'perspective' on repairing 'things' here on the Forum. Mainly because I do not have time to mess around and do 'things' twice....especially when I had the time to do it CORRECTLY the FIRST TIME.
It is your car....and you can make whatever choice you choose.
Just make sure that the foam seals between the radiator and the support are in place...along will all other seals...THEY MAKE A DIFFERENCE....and should not be OVERLOOKED. Sometimes I actually add more to fill in missing areas that GM did not use any or very little and this is to better seal if off so almost all the air can be pulled through the radiator for the best cooling possible.
DUB
I have been doing Corvette repair for a very, very long time now...and ONE THING that I have found to be 100% true. My customers want COMPETENT repairs. And if that means me covering all potential possibilities of failure by preforming or having tests preformed to reduce the chance of failure...OR...to have the information from these TESTS to provide my customers with the options that are now showing themselves...due to the outcome of the tests... and....my customers are willing to pay for it. BECAUSE I can GUARANTEE that if specific tests are NOT preformed due to additional cost of these tests or diagnostics....and a part fails. I would hear them saying..." I would have paid for the tests". SO...I cover all possibilities from the beginning...and IF they choose to NOT have these tests/diagnostics preformed....then it is ON THEM....NO ME.
So...ask yourself a question....How soon are you willing do this radiator removal again???? The answer to this question will then dictate how you proceed in making sure that you do not have to do it again. Regardless of what it takes.
PLEASE UNDERSTAND....I have a completely different 'perspective' on repairing 'things' here on the Forum. Mainly because I do not have time to mess around and do 'things' twice....especially when I had the time to do it CORRECTLY the FIRST TIME.
It is your car....and you can make whatever choice you choose.
Just make sure that the foam seals between the radiator and the support are in place...along will all other seals...THEY MAKE A DIFFERENCE....and should not be OVERLOOKED. Sometimes I actually add more to fill in missing areas that GM did not use any or very little and this is to better seal if off so almost all the air can be pulled through the radiator for the best cooling possible.
DUB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Yea u dont want to have to R&R the radiator anymore than u have to. Had mine recored with a 4 core - something like 200 bucks but much cheaper than new, looks just as good and works just as good or better - also the rad shop will press test and warranty it too.
Removal of rusted parts is never easy. That core support collects any water that runs down the radiator - coolant or rain. I considered repairing mine until i priced out new ones and realized i would replace mine once in my lifetime. Mine was corroded from coolant the radiator bracket bolts that were too long that bubba installed and screwed into the radiator causing (continuous) coolant leaks that puddled at the bottom core support. And when i went to replace the '74 core support i found installed was a '75 core support and brackets that had been installed before and so i needed new core support to radiator brackets for my '74 also. Nothing seemed to line up for my new replacement '74 core support. Plenty of bubba surprises on these old cars.
Reinstallation as a sandwich is really a 2 person job. Its just is so much easier to handle the radiator, condenser and core support as a sandwich with 2 people (in your case u could add on the fan shroud). Ive done it by myself and covered the radiator fins with cardboard to protect it from disfiguring the fins and it helped. But to have a person on each side of car to lower the radiator sandwich is much better than a one man comic episode. Also i recall using a come-a-long to pull the core support sandwich forward enough to get the fan shroud located with enough fan clearance until i could tighten down the side bolts and lock it in place. But i have reinstalled everything piece by piece also - still difficult and i recall using the pry bars a few times.
BTW that new cam looks like a flat tappet. I thought i read u where going roller cam? What cam and heads did u decide?
Good luck and hope post can help more than hurt.
Good night.
Removal of rusted parts is never easy. That core support collects any water that runs down the radiator - coolant or rain. I considered repairing mine until i priced out new ones and realized i would replace mine once in my lifetime. Mine was corroded from coolant the radiator bracket bolts that were too long that bubba installed and screwed into the radiator causing (continuous) coolant leaks that puddled at the bottom core support. And when i went to replace the '74 core support i found installed was a '75 core support and brackets that had been installed before and so i needed new core support to radiator brackets for my '74 also. Nothing seemed to line up for my new replacement '74 core support. Plenty of bubba surprises on these old cars.
Reinstallation as a sandwich is really a 2 person job. Its just is so much easier to handle the radiator, condenser and core support as a sandwich with 2 people (in your case u could add on the fan shroud). Ive done it by myself and covered the radiator fins with cardboard to protect it from disfiguring the fins and it helped. But to have a person on each side of car to lower the radiator sandwich is much better than a one man comic episode. Also i recall using a come-a-long to pull the core support sandwich forward enough to get the fan shroud located with enough fan clearance until i could tighten down the side bolts and lock it in place. But i have reinstalled everything piece by piece also - still difficult and i recall using the pry bars a few times.
BTW that new cam looks like a flat tappet. I thought i read u where going roller cam? What cam and heads did u decide?
Good luck and hope post can help more than hurt.
Good night.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Yea u dont want to have to R&R the radiator anymore than u have to. Had mine recored with a 4 core - something like 200 bucks but much cheaper than new, looks just as good and works just as good or better - also the rad shop will press test and warranty it too.
Removal of rusted parts is never easy. That core support collects any water that runs down the radiator - coolant or rain. I considered repairing mine until i priced out new ones and realized i would replace mine once in my lifetime. Mine was corroded from coolant the radiator bracket bolts that were too long that bubba installed and screwed into the radiator causing (continuous) coolant leaks that puddled at the bottom core support. And when i went to replace the '74 core support i found installed was a '75 core support and brackets that had been installed before and so i needed new core support to radiator brackets for my '74 also. Nothing seemed to line up for my new replacement '74 core support. Plenty of bubba surprises on these old cars.
Reinstallation as a sandwich is really a 2 person job. Its just is so much easier to handle the radiator, condenser and core support as a sandwich with 2 people (in your case u could add on the fan shroud). Ive done it by myself and covered the radiator fins with cardboard to protect it from disfiguring the fins and it helped. But to have a person on each side of car to lower the radiator sandwich is much better than a one man comic episode. Also i recall using a come-a-long to pull the core support sandwich forward enough to get the fan shroud located with enough fan clearance until i could tighten down the side bolts and lock it in place. But i have reinstalled everything piece by piece also - still difficult and i recall using the pry bars a few times.
BTW that new cam looks like a flat tappet. I thought i read u where going roller cam? What cam and heads did u decide?
Good luck and hope post can help more than hurt.
Good night.
Removal of rusted parts is never easy. That core support collects any water that runs down the radiator - coolant or rain. I considered repairing mine until i priced out new ones and realized i would replace mine once in my lifetime. Mine was corroded from coolant the radiator bracket bolts that were too long that bubba installed and screwed into the radiator causing (continuous) coolant leaks that puddled at the bottom core support. And when i went to replace the '74 core support i found installed was a '75 core support and brackets that had been installed before and so i needed new core support to radiator brackets for my '74 also. Nothing seemed to line up for my new replacement '74 core support. Plenty of bubba surprises on these old cars.
Reinstallation as a sandwich is really a 2 person job. Its just is so much easier to handle the radiator, condenser and core support as a sandwich with 2 people (in your case u could add on the fan shroud). Ive done it by myself and covered the radiator fins with cardboard to protect it from disfiguring the fins and it helped. But to have a person on each side of car to lower the radiator sandwich is much better than a one man comic episode. Also i recall using a come-a-long to pull the core support sandwich forward enough to get the fan shroud located with enough fan clearance until i could tighten down the side bolts and lock it in place. But i have reinstalled everything piece by piece also - still difficult and i recall using the pry bars a few times.
BTW that new cam looks like a flat tappet. I thought i read u where going roller cam? What cam and heads did u decide?
Good luck and hope post can help more than hurt.
Good night.
I'm going to find a local radiator shop and get it checked out. I have two people to help with reinstall so should be ok there.
That cam is the stock flat tappet
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Yea u dont want to have to R&R the radiator anymore than u have to. Had mine recored with a 4 core - something like 200 bucks but much cheaper than new, looks just as good and works just as good or better - also the rad shop will press test and warranty it too.
Removal of rusted parts is never easy. That core support collects any water that runs down the radiator - coolant or rain. I considered repairing mine until i priced out new ones and realized i would replace mine once in my lifetime. Mine was corroded from coolant the radiator bracket bolts that were too long that bubba installed and screwed into the radiator causing (continuous) coolant leaks that puddled at the bottom core support. And when i went to replace the '74 core support i found installed was a '75 core support and brackets that had been installed before and so i needed new core support to radiator brackets for my '74 also. Nothing seemed to line up for my new replacement '74 core support. Plenty of bubba surprises on these old cars.
Reinstallation as a sandwich is really a 2 person job. Its just is so much easier to handle the radiator, condenser and core support as a sandwich with 2 people (in your case u could add on the fan shroud). Ive done it by myself and covered the radiator fins with cardboard to protect it from disfiguring the fins and it helped. But to have a person on each side of car to lower the radiator sandwich is much better than a one man comic episode. Also i recall using a come-a-long to pull the core support sandwich forward enough to get the fan shroud located with enough fan clearance until i could tighten down the side bolts and lock it in place. But i have reinstalled everything piece by piece also - still difficult and i recall using the pry bars a few times.
BTW that new cam looks like a flat tappet. I thought i read u where going roller cam? What cam and heads did u decide?
Good luck and hope post can help more than hurt.
Good night.
Removal of rusted parts is never easy. That core support collects any water that runs down the radiator - coolant or rain. I considered repairing mine until i priced out new ones and realized i would replace mine once in my lifetime. Mine was corroded from coolant the radiator bracket bolts that were too long that bubba installed and screwed into the radiator causing (continuous) coolant leaks that puddled at the bottom core support. And when i went to replace the '74 core support i found installed was a '75 core support and brackets that had been installed before and so i needed new core support to radiator brackets for my '74 also. Nothing seemed to line up for my new replacement '74 core support. Plenty of bubba surprises on these old cars.
Reinstallation as a sandwich is really a 2 person job. Its just is so much easier to handle the radiator, condenser and core support as a sandwich with 2 people (in your case u could add on the fan shroud). Ive done it by myself and covered the radiator fins with cardboard to protect it from disfiguring the fins and it helped. But to have a person on each side of car to lower the radiator sandwich is much better than a one man comic episode. Also i recall using a come-a-long to pull the core support sandwich forward enough to get the fan shroud located with enough fan clearance until i could tighten down the side bolts and lock it in place. But i have reinstalled everything piece by piece also - still difficult and i recall using the pry bars a few times.
BTW that new cam looks like a flat tappet. I thought i read u where going roller cam? What cam and heads did u decide?
Good luck and hope post can help more than hurt.
Good night.
I'm going to find a local radiator shop and get it checked out. I have two people to help with reinstall so should be ok there.
That cam is the stock flat tappet that came out. I'm installing a Howard's retrofit roller and dart shp
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
Yea u dont want to have to R&R the radiator anymore than u have to. Had mine recored with a 4 core - something like 200 bucks but much cheaper than new, looks just as good and works just as good or better - also the rad shop will press test and warranty it too.
Removal of rusted parts is never easy. That core support collects any water that runs down the radiator - coolant or rain. I considered repairing mine until i priced out new ones and realized i would replace mine once in my lifetime. Mine was corroded from coolant the radiator bracket bolts that were too long that bubba installed and screwed into the radiator causing (continuous) coolant leaks that puddled at the bottom core support. And when i went to replace the '74 core support i found installed was a '75 core support and brackets that had been installed before and so i needed new core support to radiator brackets for my '74 also. Nothing seemed to line up for my new replacement '74 core support. Plenty of bubba surprises on these old cars.
Reinstallation as a sandwich is really a 2 person job. Its just is so much easier to handle the radiator, condenser and core support as a sandwich with 2 people (in your case u could add on the fan shroud). Ive done it by myself and covered the radiator fins with cardboard to protect it from disfiguring the fins and it helped. But to have a person on each side of car to lower the radiator sandwich is much better than a one man comic episode. Also i recall using a come-a-long to pull the core support sandwich forward enough to get the fan shroud located with enough fan clearance until i could tighten down the side bolts and lock it in place. But i have reinstalled everything piece by piece also - still difficult and i recall using the pry bars a few times.
BTW that new cam looks like a flat tappet. I thought i read u where going roller cam? What cam and heads did u decide?
Good luck and hope post can help more than hurt.
Good night.
Removal of rusted parts is never easy. That core support collects any water that runs down the radiator - coolant or rain. I considered repairing mine until i priced out new ones and realized i would replace mine once in my lifetime. Mine was corroded from coolant the radiator bracket bolts that were too long that bubba installed and screwed into the radiator causing (continuous) coolant leaks that puddled at the bottom core support. And when i went to replace the '74 core support i found installed was a '75 core support and brackets that had been installed before and so i needed new core support to radiator brackets for my '74 also. Nothing seemed to line up for my new replacement '74 core support. Plenty of bubba surprises on these old cars.
Reinstallation as a sandwich is really a 2 person job. Its just is so much easier to handle the radiator, condenser and core support as a sandwich with 2 people (in your case u could add on the fan shroud). Ive done it by myself and covered the radiator fins with cardboard to protect it from disfiguring the fins and it helped. But to have a person on each side of car to lower the radiator sandwich is much better than a one man comic episode. Also i recall using a come-a-long to pull the core support sandwich forward enough to get the fan shroud located with enough fan clearance until i could tighten down the side bolts and lock it in place. But i have reinstalled everything piece by piece also - still difficult and i recall using the pry bars a few times.
BTW that new cam looks like a flat tappet. I thought i read u where going roller cam? What cam and heads did u decide?
Good luck and hope post can help more than hurt.
Good night.
I'm going to find a local radiator shop and get it checked out. I have two people to help with reinstall so should be ok there.
That cam is the stock flat tappet that came out. I'm installing a Howard's retrofit roller and dart shp 180 heads. I have the new cam in and one head one. Setting up rockers and measuring pushrods today.
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Beverly Hills FL Florida
Hood on, shroud in, with A/C on a 77 C3
I went through and read all these and I just couldn't believe it would be that hard. Honestly guys I kept the hood on, unbolted the shroud, took all the houses of the radiator and just pulled it out. By myself, homeowner tools. Wasn't really that hard. Maybe it's different in a 77... Who knows
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 109
Likes: 21
From: Dripping Springs Texas
For whoever wants to jump in - I'm replacing the radiator and shroud on my '73 BB w/AC and find I can't move the core support forward (per DUB's procedure) due to the headlight actuators being in the way. A previous thread says to remove them for access. Anyone else have this issue? This has turned out to be a long job due to finding a host of 'other' issues lurking here as others have commented. Thanks
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 743
Likes: 71
From: Jarrettsville Maryland
I went through and read all these and I just couldn't believe it would be that hard. Honestly guys I kept the hood on, unbolted the shroud, took all the houses of the radiator and just pulled it out. By myself, homeowner tools. Wasn't really that hard. Maybe it's different in a 77... Who knows
I actually damaged the lower hose attaching point on the 76 radiator. So, I bought a DeWitts made for a 79 Corvette (the changeover happened late in 76) along with the corresponding coolant hoses and the radiator went in just fine. The small difference between 7x-76E and 76L-79 and on makes a big difference as far as clearance.