Rear spindle nut/how tight
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
Rear spindle nut/how tight
Hello all, I'm new to the forum and already realize there is a wealth of information here. Mine is a yellow 73, 70K, mostly original, 3rd owner for 18 years. I am finishing up replacement of all u-joints and figured while I had the half shafts out why not grease the bearings. I bought the "greaser" attachment years ago before I realized it would only benefit the inside bearing, but for now some is better than none. I plan to do a complete job in a few months when I retire. I have manuals giving rear spindle torque at 75 lbs in one and 100 lbs in another. Problem on mine is that the castle nut slots line up with the cotter pin hole at around 65 lbs or 115 lbs. Which direction is best to go in? They didn't seem very tight when I disassembled and appeared to have never been touched since 73. Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,278
Likes: 4,372
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi VJ,
Welcome!!!
I don't know what "manuals" you are using.
The 2 to buy if you don't have them are the "GM 1973 Chassis Service Manual" and the "1973 Assembly Instruction Manual", (AIM).
Both these are pretty reliable and are available from the larger vendors. You'll certainly need them in a "few month"s.
Regards,
Alan
Welcome!!!
I don't know what "manuals" you are using.
The 2 to buy if you don't have them are the "GM 1973 Chassis Service Manual" and the "1973 Assembly Instruction Manual", (AIM).
Both these are pretty reliable and are available from the larger vendors. You'll certainly need them in a "few month"s.
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
Thanks for the welcome guys. I have 73 : GM Assembly, GM Overhaul & GM Service manuals The 75# was probably in the Hayes manual and it felt about that when I loosened them. When I go to the 100# the hole is barely visible going into the next raised section on the castle nut. When I get to the following slot it just seems way tight. I was worried that it might effect bearing clearance. So, no need to worry here ?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
AND...getting it super tight will not effect your bearing tolerances....because the tightening of this castle nut is bringing the set-up together...and when it is together.. it is just that...together...and can not effect the run-out that was set-up initially. All you are doing is getting the nut tighter and possibly slightly distorting the special thick washer under the castle nut....which I have seen cupped shaped a with distress cracks in them when removed.
DUB
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
What is a good source for castle nuts ? I tried to get a pinion nut at a dealership a few weeks ago, said discontinued. I've been collecting some NOS off ebay for my future rear suspension rebuild but at a premium.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
And make sure that the nut looks like what you have. Some companies are making castle nuts that are not a full hex thought the complete thickness of the nut. At the castle portion...they seem to machine it away and make the top of the nut thinner...thus cheaper.
DUB
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
Thanks for the input guys. The voice of experience far outweighs what you might read in a book. I'll get some spares from Dorman, hadn't thought about them. I've ordered Dorman parts for other cars and have been pleased with their products.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Thanks for the welcome guys. I have 73 : GM Assembly, GM Overhaul & GM Service manuals The 75# was probably in the Hayes manual and it felt about that when I loosened them. When I go to the 100# the hole is barely visible going into the next raised section on the castle nut. When I get to the following slot it just seems way tight. I was worried that it might effect bearing clearance. So, no need to worry here ?
Jus' saying.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
). YOU are smart enough to know that this makes NO DIFFERENCE......there is NO crush sleeve. The spacer and shim do not compress. So removing the nut all you want does not matter at all. AND the worthless inner bearing greasing tool requires the nut to be removed. just make sure that the nut goes back on to 90 lbs/ft and then tighten further to align up for the cotter pin.When the spindle is being pulled into the bearing support housing...where the bearing seals, spacer and correct shim has ALREADY been set-up CORRECTLY for correct end play....the installation tool is tightened to 100 lbs/ft....just like the set-up tool. BUT the nut on the spindle gets tightened to 90 lbs/ft
And that is why I am careful to make sure the threads on the end of the spindle are NOT GREASY...which can DIRECTLY effect the torque value due to lubrication.
And knowing that the amount of turn it takes to go form 90 lbs/ft to 100 lbs/ft is so minor...that is why I prefer NOT to have to turn this nut all the way to the next cotter pin hole when it just slightly went past it when I torqued it to 90 lbs/ft. That is WAY too much of a turn for me.
DUB