With the 383 what is your HP goal? If it is still 400 then a very mild set of heads and mild hyd roller will not have an issue making that kind of power.

 

Your combination sounds good. It puts the duration down lower, has good lift and I like the LSA. But I think I am starting to go crazy. In reviewing the heads, I can't even find the World Products Heads i was looking at. Must not have written down the number, and in searching can't find WP-180's or a 66cc chamber. But also looking at the AFR-180s, at Summit I see 3 different parts #, 0916, 0918, 0919. They all look the same. Which ones you talking about.

 

My vacuum is 14" @ 800 RPM at 5000ft. At a lower alt it will be higher. I have power brakes as well as the rest of the vac run stuff any c3 has and no problems with running all of it. Even in gear it drops to about 10" and still no problems.
I like the 108 for it's midrange power and throttle response. It makes more peak power but gives up some upper RPMs to do so. So the HP falls off at a lower RPM. A split duration may get some of that back, but at the expense of greater overlap.
I wanted to keep the overlap reasonable for vacuum, manners and better bottom end performance. I run side pipes with STS baffles so back pressure was not really a concern, quite the opposite the Hooker header primaries are 1 7/8", too large for a 350.
If I had it to do over I would have purchased better heads for this combo. As it is I'm trying to make the best of what these heads have to offer. I did some porting before installing them to try to improve the exhaust flow somewhat and just clean up the bowls and valve guide bosses.

I had similar concerns with a higher stall converter as well. I installed an additional in-line transmission cooler to keeps the temps under control.
The stall of the converter is dependent on how much effort is required to move the car+design stall.
So if the car is on flat ground and little resistance is being generated then the stall (minimum slippage) of the converter is lower.
If you are pulling a hill and resistance is high then the stall is higher. It is all dependent on how much effort is required to move the car and the design stall of the converter.
With my 2400 stall converter it takes a little more throttle when initially moving, but very little.
If I hold the brake I can see 2600 rpm before the torque overpowers the brakes. If I mash the pedal from a dead stop then I can see 2650 RPM, this is the flash stall of the converter.

With the stock motor my stall was 2400 RPM. Less torque=lower stall with the same converter. With your stock 2000 stall converter if you develop more torque @ 2000 RPM with the new motor then your stall may move to 2200 RPM.

So the higher stall is not a penalty, at least not at the level I have it. If you go to 3500- 4000 stall then it's gonna be very noticeable and will generate a fair amount of additional heat perhaps. There are some very efficient high stall converters on the market and you can get the slip down to just a few percent.

 

You are talking a built 350 or a 383? I think your 350/350 has a forged crank so rebuilding it is not a bad option since you have a 400 HP goal. These are the heads you want of the 3. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/afr-0916/overview/
EDIT: Straight plugs, hydraulic roller springs.

 

As you can see,the options are as endless as your funds.
The Forum has a lot of good info. You have to decide what is right for you.
Building a killer high HP engine is easy. Living w/it could be a bigger problem. Learn from others. Ask how they like their combo after living w/it.

JMHO

R

 

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sum...%20Fast%20Burn

AFR Eliminators are at the bottom of the page. The ones up top are the old pre-eliminator version.

 

Sorry about that. I hid it in my sig: "... Comp XE Retro Roller Kit (K12-422-8). .502/.509 lift with Comp 1.52 Ultra Pro Magnums, 1600-5400rpm range, Adv.Dur. 270 Int./276 Exh., 218/224 @ .050", LSA 110"

I did not consider that the duration increases (nominally) with the added lift from the 1.52R rockers. The cam max lift with 1.50R was about .495/.502.

 

[QUOTE=jb78L-82;After much deliberation and advice from 63Mako, DucatiDon and others I went with the AFR 180 CC 65 CC aluminum heads and the Howards Roller cam .525/.525, duration 219/225, LSA 110 since I wanted to make strong mid range power with decent bottom end and decent top end-cam operating range is 1,500-5,600 RPM with good idle (similar to the L-82) and good vacuum. Hope that helps![/QUOTE]
Thanks JB, I like the cam that Mako suggested too and the heads. When you stated your cam up above, did you typo on the intake lift when you wrote, .525? If we're talking the same cam that he said, the Howard's, # 181145-10, the lift is .510/.525 I'm pretty sure. Just wanted to get it straight for sure. I appreciate what you said.

 

No typo. The cam I have is 111145-10 and summit lists the lift at .510/.525 but Howards website lists the lift at .525/.525 as my cam card does. Summit must have a typo....Here are the specs from howards website:


272 278
219/225
.525.525 LSA110
1500-5600 Fair idle, Performance Street, Nice streetable mid range power. 1800+ stall suggested.

http://www.howardscams.com/howards2015.pdf

 

Remanufactured, 1996 to 2002 Chevy block w/ mechanical fuel pump

If your going with a factory roller block your cam is this:

Howards Part #181145-10
Adv duration 272/278
Duration @ .050 219/225
lift W/ 1.5 rockers .525 .525
LSA 110
ICL 106

 

Got ya Mako, 181145-10, That lift number is throwing me off too, because I think it is Summit that has it listed as .510/.525
Got the AFR-180 heads (0916) , this cam, & Edelbrock Performer because it will fit under the hood. Thanks. I need to take a break this stuff is hard to digest. I need to chew on all of it awhile and with all due respect, I need to talk to some local people. Dave.

 

Lift numbers and specs listed came from Howards catalog.

 

Sounds like an excellent combo. I would go this route if I had a do-over.

If he is still in the business, Lars can rebuild and setup that q-jet to compliment your combo. He rebuilt my q-jet over 10 years ago and it still performs flawlessly.

Let us know once you start the build and share the results!

 

The 355 L-82 ST10 Close Ratio 4 speed 3.70 gears has been running since June 2014 and so far I would not change anything about the build.....So far I am very happy with how the engine runs, torque, Peak Power, gas mileage, low end grunt with my 4 speed. I was a little concerned that the cam would not have optimised high RPM power but it pulls VERY hard to 6,000 RPM with the AFR 180's-my rev limit for this motor and only occassionally. Moderate throttle in any gear especially above 2,000 RPM lifts the nose of the car notficeably-never did that with the OEM L-82.....that is happening with a 360 rear spring and Bilstein Sports in the back......

 

I can relate. Even with my lower power levels, I break the tires loose anytime I do more than gently accelerate from a dead stop. With my retro-roller conversion, I targeted comparable performance to my Crane Energizer 272-H10 grind but more lift since my DART heads have good flow up to .500. The Mastercraft tires I have on rear are stickier than the 10+ year old Eagles I replaced in 2013. The Bow-Tie 700R4 and 3.54 gears contribute to a 'prompt' launch too. I get around 18-19mpg with spirited driving with limited and occasional use of 4th/OD.

 

Well, I have an engine specification maybe locked in. But first I have two very simple questions not related to the motor. I am just about to pick the old motor out of the Vette. Have everything stripped clear including all trans attaching things like lines, cables, wires etc. But I have never pulled a chevy V8 before. So here's the questions. What size and thread bolts do I need to attach the back of the engine to the engine stand? And, where is the best way to attach the lifting chains to the engine to pick it out. I have a balance beam for my engine hoist. Thanks.
Now about the new engine, It looks like its going to be a 383 cu in. I have been in discussion with a machine shop in a nearby town that is well known for building performance engines. It seems they build for drag racers, circle track and the street rod crowd. They will build the engine and dyno it. Here is what they propose, 383ci, 6" rods, hyperuetectic flattop pistons, an OEM roller block, clearanced, aligned, magnafluxed, shot peened, trued, Bore/hone,. A blending valve job, port match heads and intake, degree cam, check quench, and clearances, Balance crank, rods and pistons. I told them I want Iron Heads so they suggested Dart, Iron Eagle 180s. Edelbrock Performer Intake, (because it fits under hood) heat crossover blocked off. Quick Fuel carb w/electric choke. & mechanical secondaries. (650cfm). Comp Cams, # 08-423-8. 224/230 duration @.050, .502/.510" lift, 110 LSA. (coincidentally this is the same cam I was looking at when I started this thread and I didn't suggest it to them). I'm still not sure about all this but this shop seems very competent. Dave.

 

Do your self a favor .. Look at GM ZZ5 and GM ZZ383 ...FOR SPECS only ,, It will give you a feel for what works perfectly for your ideas.

You can make 430hp/430tq with a 350 easily (ZZ430) and its street manners are perfect in all rpm ranges from idle to red line..

You can use several brands of heads to do it and cam shafts , I only suggest this because it is time tested and proven power you can set a base line from.

Or you can call cam companies or post and get 100 different ideas .. I just think from what you seek having a forged crank / block ect you can easily reach hp/tq with out a replacement rotating assembly .

 

I just don't see the reasoning for iron heads.

 

There is no advantage and many disadvantages to using iron heads, especially if your looking for streetable power. Aluminum heads allow a more streetable cam with higher compression and less weight. Win, win, win. This part is uneccessary with a 400 HP 383 if parts are properly selected.
"A blending valve job, port match heads and intake"

 

I think those heads and that cam are both suited better to a 350.
You'll have a low RPM grunt machine that runs out of steam soon after 5000 RPM, if that's what you want.
Have to agree on aluminum though, for a little more $$ it's a lot better situation.