430 HP/ 430 TQ in a 350 needs the right gearing and driving style to be effective. OP is not looking to run 6000 RPM which is where the ZZ430 peak power is. Put it in the OP's 3.08 auto car it will be a big disappointment. How much horsepower you can make is not the point. How useable the power you make is in the application and RPM you use is the priority.

 

Stop .. For gods sake . Your not making peak torque at much less rpm with most other combos. This hits 400 ft pounds at an early 3000 and goes to 430 and holds all 400 plus to 5500 . At least here he has head room with his shifting rpm.. And that ZZ430 ran at 7k for 12 hours at sebring so it is durable and worth copying.

And I am only making it a point of reference , no matter what he does 400 ft pounds of tq with a 3.08 in a full weight C-3 is not going to break any records . . But this is a PROVEN amount of power , has a parts list as does the ZZ383 if he chooses to build something along those lines..

Every one and I mean everyone can do better then GM but reality and words seldom match up. I beat the hell out of the ZZ product line and it never failed me even shifting at 7200 rpm over and over again ..

 

I guess we'll have to disagree about the aluminum verses iron heads. But I do agree that for optimum power the alum is better. That doesn't mean you can't get what you need from an iron head. Since I am not going racing to win anything I believe the iron head will do the job. I think I understand where the builder of the proposal is coming from. It's just another way to get the results I am looking for. But Having said that, I am not completely sold on this configuration just yet. If you look at what i have been saying I think it will do the job. One correction to my rpm range I have been saying is that my 65mph cruise rpms is 2550(not 2700). I want my best torque between 2000 and 4000 rpms. I want a low stall converter that is at its max efficiency before I get to steady state cruise. the stock 2000 stall is good. Maybe move up to 2200 but that's it. I believe the 383 will give inherant torgue. The Dart Iron Eagle heads flow better at .400 to .500 lift than the small valve Vortecs. (thanks for the flow charts Mako). The Iron Eagles 180 with 2.0 & 1.6 valves will give velocity and plenty of flow for this job. The Quick Fuel carb is extremely adjustable and is going to be tuned on the dyno. I run headers and a Very Free flowing exhaust system.
As has been mentioned I have looked at the ZZ engines alot. The ZZ5 has the suggested hp & torq but sometimes it is a wonder to me how they are doing it. Alot smaller cam all the way around, the fast burn heads are very comparable to the Iron Eagles at .400 / .500" lift. Sometimes you got to read between the lines , or literally read the lines. The ZZ5 promotional literature flatly states " this engine wants more cam" . Well, my cam is more cam, and just alittle more. And the ZZ 383, 425/450hp have the same cam. And it is almost identical to the one I'm specing. Just a touch more lift. with an LSA of 112 I think they have smoothed it out too much. The 383 is going to give me plenty of vacuum for my accessories and as said plenty of grunt. Will it run out of legs at 5000 rpms? Maybe, but I'll bet it will go to at least 5400. Do I run 5000 rpms on the highway, I hope not. Do you know when the last time I saw 5000 rpms in this oldchev. I'm not that young, its been along time. I haven't said this before, but I have a C5, Do you know when was the last time I saw 5000 rpms in the C5, not very often. Although I did hit the rev limiter once down at Crusin Ocean City. Anyway, I have been listiening to you fellas and i might have this all wrong. But I didn't spec this motor. A dye hard engine machinest/ racer did. By the way I really, really do appreciate your opinions. And I'm trying to learn by them. That's one reason why I'm not completely sold on this cam. Now one of you said my specs look like they belong on a 350ci. Yeh I might agree because it is almost exactly what I said in the beginning when I started this thread and I was thinking 350 back then. but then everyone told me my cam was too big. well if you go 383 the cam ought to look too small. But, gues what the Comps Cam rep said to me just yesterday, He suggested # 08-422-8, just a touch smaller. If I go smaller, I probably will have a really smooth running 383, with plenty of pull from 1500 rpms all the way thru to 5400, and PLENTY of vacuum. So why am I stating the 08-423-8, I don't know, that's what the builder spec'd. Dave.

 

I'm sure you will be happy with your build. It will get you your 400 HP and good bottom end and midrange at the RPM your looking for it in. A 2200 stall convertor would help everything.
EDIT: If you use the 72 CC heads ( Biggest chamber available) with flat tops and that cam go with 7 CC flat tops. That gets your DCR @ 8 to 1. If you go 5 CC flat tops with optimized quench you are @ 8.14 to 1 DCR. Won't run on pump gas with iron heads and that DCR. 8 to 1 is a push.

 

A 400 with alum heads and no lope to the cam = perfect for 3.08's and a stock stall...
but that's just me..

AFR heads and a single pattern cam, 355/383/or 407.

 

If you are going to spend money on a set of heads I would consider a set of aluminum heads.More compression/less detonation risk helps power/torque everywhere and allows you to run the timing advance the motor wants.It also allows you the possibility to run less than premium gas depending on your final compression/cylinder pressure.

 

Right, like these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dart-180cc-SBC-SHP-COMPLETE-Aluminum-heads-Pair-72cc-127222-Small-Block-Chevy-/331209389604?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1d9e3624&vxp=mtr

 

LOL. My experience with those has not been stellar. If a guy buys them be sure to disassemble them and check ALL of the pertinent specs. Better yet have a shop who knows what they are looking for do it.

oldchev, it sounds like your not looking for high RPM performance and with what you have chosen will work well for good grunt.
That being said you could get a little more of both with higher flowing heads and higher stall torque converter. It's you build so up to you. obviously $$ becomes a factor at some point.
Just keep in mind that filling the cylinder on each intake stroke is the goal. Anything that can assist that goal without giving up more somewhere else will produce more torque, ergo more power. More torque at higher RPMs is more power.
Things that can achieve that goal are more valve lift, better flowing heads, greater duration (at the cost of potentially sacrificing low end somewhat), good scavenging, free flowing exhaust, low intake restriction, cool dense intake air.

My 3.08 rear with the TH-350 has a long hard pull when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. My solution was to rev higher in second gear. Yours is to have more grunt to pull 3rd gear, either will work.

 

Any heads have to be checked out thoroughly. My Competition Ported AFR 195's had tight guides < .001. Had to open them up a little out of the box.

 

Getting my C6 Rebuilt, what is the best way to break it in, has anyone heard of Heat Cycling.

 

LOL a bit off topic, but yeah I used heat cycling to get forged pistons to their final dimension when rebuilding bike engines.

 

OK, I'm gonna throw another head choice at ya. I completed my tired L48 to 383 Stroker build last fall. HP is around 420. I am really impressed and happy with the power band and performance. As far as heads I went with "Flo-Tek's". All aluminum 180 intake runners, 64cc chambers, 2.02-160 stainless swirl polish valves, 3angle seats, bronze guides, good seals, screw in rocker studs w guides, springs good to .550 lift, $756.00 assembled. The forum guys didn't know much about them but I pulled the trigger anyway. They are cast in Austraila and machined in Indiana. Tri state cylinder head Co. The ports were a little irregular but I didn't care since I planned to port them and did so to a Felpro 1206 gasket. Did the same with a new Edelbrock Performer Air Gap. Fits under stock hood w an Edel Pro Flow filter. Check them out as you make your choices. I've had no problems at 2k miles so far. I can really feel it pull @ 3500 and up due to porting. Also added a 2200 stal to the TH350.

Good luck

 

Flo-Tek placed high in the cyl head shootout by Chevy High Perf magazine. They were among the least expensive. Speedway Motors sells them I know.

 

Yes exactly, when I was making decisions re: my build a CF member posted a link to that head comparison and the results sold me, especially for the money. I purchased from Speedway, I'm in IL. and had them the next day.

With my build I ended up @ 10.24:1 SCR and 8.45:1 DCS. I've run both 93 and 87 octane with no ping. I'm running a 165deg high flow stat and high flow aluminum water pump. The engine has never been above 165 even before breakin when all was tight.

After porting with Felpro #1206 gasket:

 

One last FYI, I weighed the stock assembled factory iron heads, intake manifold, water pump, and exhaust manifold. In comparison the new alum heads, intake, water pump, and long tube headers weighed in 100 lbs less. I thought that was pretty cool in an engine that makes 240 more HP.

 

Thanks for the details and those look fine. (nice build)

 

I appreciate everyone's points. But I believe I will stick with the Dart heads i spec'd. But one more decision that I have to make is whether to use the angled plug or straight plug configuration. I tend to like the angled plug situation but I am wondering about the header choices for the Vette. I'm starting to search the net now to see what is available. Does anyone know which configuration has the best header choices for the Vette. Thanks, Dave.

 

See below, Your build will need Premium gas at a minimum, Race gas or detuned possibly depending on numerous parameters. This is why people are pointing you toward aluminum.

 

I went with the angled plug type for better header clearance / wrench access. This pic is not the best illustration of that but you can see the plug port points in a direction way from the header tubes.

 

Engine specs posted and iron heads will require a minimum of premium fuel, possibly dialed back timing and/or Race fuel. With the only change being aluminum heads the same size and chambers you can go with regular or midgrade. I ran the numbers.