dash pad
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
You have to dismantle quite a bit of the dash area:
remove RH sill plate; remove all dash screws; remove RH dash; remove firewall to upper dash pad retaining screw; lower steering column; remove LH sill plate; remove outer mounting screws for LH dash; pull LH dash out slightly and down for clearance.
Now you need to remove the old dash pad. Very likely to bust it in many pieces, as it is now brittle and the windshield is installed.
Need to carefully bend the new dash and HOPE that you don't break it. (Or, you could remove the windshield to aid in install clearance.
)
If I were you, I would seriously consider whether I could repair the existing dash [in place], or install the available dash "cap", until you NEED to replace the windshield.
P.S. At least, with a '69, you don't have to screw around with the dash speakers.
remove RH sill plate; remove all dash screws; remove RH dash; remove firewall to upper dash pad retaining screw; lower steering column; remove LH sill plate; remove outer mounting screws for LH dash; pull LH dash out slightly and down for clearance.
Now you need to remove the old dash pad. Very likely to bust it in many pieces, as it is now brittle and the windshield is installed.
Need to carefully bend the new dash and HOPE that you don't break it. (Or, you could remove the windshield to aid in install clearance.
)If I were you, I would seriously consider whether I could repair the existing dash [in place], or install the available dash "cap", until you NEED to replace the windshield.
P.S. At least, with a '69, you don't have to screw around with the dash speakers.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,273
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi ray,
7T1's comments are right on.
I'll only add to remove the 2 a-pillar trim pieces, too.
About 'bending' the pad…. I'd call it more of a 'hump'. You need to effectively 'shorten' the pad a little bit to get the two ends to clear the a-pillars. So you hump the middle of the pad a little to squeeze it by the 2 pillars. I actually put one mend in place and then hump it up just enough to clear the other pillar.
It's a good idea to get the pad as warm as possible to make it as flexible as possible. I'd put it in the warmest spot in your house for at least a day right toy make it as flexible as possible before you're ready to put it in place. If it were summer I'd suggest you put it out in the sun for a couple of hours.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
7T1's comments are right on.
I'll only add to remove the 2 a-pillar trim pieces, too.
About 'bending' the pad…. I'd call it more of a 'hump'. You need to effectively 'shorten' the pad a little bit to get the two ends to clear the a-pillars. So you hump the middle of the pad a little to squeeze it by the 2 pillars. I actually put one mend in place and then hump it up just enough to clear the other pillar.
It's a good idea to get the pad as warm as possible to make it as flexible as possible. I'd put it in the warmest spot in your house for at least a day right toy make it as flexible as possible before you're ready to put it in place. If it were summer I'd suggest you put it out in the sun for a couple of hours.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Jan 30, 2015 at 05:05 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,002
Likes: 17
From: Inlet Beach, FL
It's not that bad of a job, just time consuming. As suggested above do it on a warm day so you can lift it ever so slightly to clear the ends and make sure you remove the A-pillar trim. It won't take much pressure so take it easy.
I just installed a new Al Knoch dash pad. It looks ok, but it's not as nice as the original. Everything fits and lines up with the original pad also, but not the Al Knoch pad.
I decided to put in the Al Knoch pad since the perforated speaker areas on my original pad were cracked. At the time I bought the replacement pad I didn't know of any dash repair companies.
I heard about these guys on the forum and plan on getting an estimate for having my original dash pad redone since it is far superior to the replacement:
http://www.justdashes.com/
Good luck.
I just installed a new Al Knoch dash pad. It looks ok, but it's not as nice as the original. Everything fits and lines up with the original pad also, but not the Al Knoch pad.
I decided to put in the Al Knoch pad since the perforated speaker areas on my original pad were cracked. At the time I bought the replacement pad I didn't know of any dash repair companies.
I heard about these guys on the forum and plan on getting an estimate for having my original dash pad redone since it is far superior to the replacement:
http://www.justdashes.com/
Good luck.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,926
Likes: 739
From: Youngstown Ohio
The above advice is right on the money.......it's like a jigsaw puzzle. The dash parts must be disassembled and reassembled in order......the upper pad comes out last, the new one goes in first. I used a heat gun to soften mine and it went in quite easily.....that way removes the anxiety of bending it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
Hi Ray. Your initial post doesn't state which dash pad you are looking at replacing (LH, RH or upper pad - maybe all 3?) but you've gotten some good advice here on the tricks and the risks.
The only additional advice I can offer is that if/when you have the LH pad out (in my opinion, this one is the toughest of the 3), take the time to replace all gauge light bulbs. Find good, USA-made bulbs. It would be a bad thing if after you go through all the work of R&Ring the pads, something inside went bad after re-assembly. Take a good look at your speakers too. Old speakers are commonly shot.
BTW, I'd probably take the risk with the original upper pad offered here if needed. Pre-heat it and take the chance. I've had my original '72 out 2 or 3 times, and while I do wince a bit when flexing it, it hasn't broken. I think the "bow" you need to put in it is about 1.5" total.
Good luck with your project. Let us know how it all turns out.
The only additional advice I can offer is that if/when you have the LH pad out (in my opinion, this one is the toughest of the 3), take the time to replace all gauge light bulbs. Find good, USA-made bulbs. It would be a bad thing if after you go through all the work of R&Ring the pads, something inside went bad after re-assembly. Take a good look at your speakers too. Old speakers are commonly shot.
BTW, I'd probably take the risk with the original upper pad offered here if needed. Pre-heat it and take the chance. I've had my original '72 out 2 or 3 times, and while I do wince a bit when flexing it, it hasn't broken. I think the "bow" you need to put in it is about 1.5" total.
Good luck with your project. Let us know how it all turns out.
Last edited by redrdstr72; Jan 31, 2015 at 08:11 AM. Reason: spelling
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 269
Likes: 7
From: carpentersville ill.
thanks for all inputs, got pad from corvette America I will be doing this in summer when it is hot in c'ville ill. +I will be installing new led bulbs, speedo+tach cables, cd radio with new bezel, speakers sound bar + amp.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Use the two pages below to help you get the pad in. The
The link below would be perfect if it had the lower one combined... I really need to revise this. In our shop we always remove the steering column, it makes the job way easier.
Corvette Dash Pad Remove and Install Instructions 68-77
Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977
The link below would be perfect if it had the lower one combined... I really need to revise this. In our shop we always remove the steering column, it makes the job way easier.
Corvette Dash Pad Remove and Install Instructions 68-77
Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977
Racer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 413
Likes: 22
From: Justin TX
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=105
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
Wilcox has a lot of technical documents available. This is the dash pad removal/installation instructions. I did the LED bulbs in my 69 about a year ago and really love the look. I have had my dash pad in and out a couple of times, usually during the winter in Texas and just use a blow dryer to heat it up a little.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=105
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=105
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 269
Likes: 7
From: carpentersville ill.
Use the two pages below to help you get the pad in. The
The link below would be perfect if it had the lower one combined... I really need to revise this. In our shop we always remove the steering column, it makes the job way easier.
Corvette Dash Pad Remove and Install Instructions 68-77
Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977
The link below would be perfect if it had the lower one combined... I really need to revise this. In our shop we always remove the steering column, it makes the job way easier.
Corvette Dash Pad Remove and Install Instructions 68-77
Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal Made Easy 1968-1977
Racer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 413
Likes: 22
From: Justin TX
Here is pictures of them, I did a couple of comparison shots with standard and LED side by side and some are after the conversion. There is a little dimming but very narrow range, the bulbs I have found are not dimmable and drop off at around 10 VDC I believe.
http://s203.photobucket.com/user/TX-...LED_Conversion
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
You don't want to control LED light intensity with resistors. That just causes a power drain and extra heat in the circuit. You need to control LED's with a pulse-width modulator device. You can find inexpensive PWM units on eBAY if you search for "LED PWM devices".