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OK guys, i'm at my wits end. I have a 1982 Collectors Edition with roughly 90000 miles on it. Here is the problem, it started up fine yesterday afternoon. I pulled it out of my garage roughly 20' and shut it off. I was having issues with my headlamps but that I think I have figured out. Anyway, got back in it after letting the car sit for about 5 minutes and it wouldn't start. Nothing, not even a hint it wanted to turn over. I put the battery charger on it and it charged up to 100% but still no starting. Possible issues? Starter?
OK guys, i'm at my wits end. I have a 1982 Collectors Edition with roughly 90000 miles on it. Here is the problem, it started up fine yesterday afternoon. I pulled it out of my garage roughly 20' and shut it off. I was having issues with my headlamps but that I think I have figured out. Anyway, got back in it after letting the car sit for about 5 minutes and it wouldn't start. Nothing, not even a hint it wanted to turn over. I put the battery charger on it and it charged up to 100% but still no starting. Possible issues? Starter?
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
If your battery is about 5 years old, I would change it with Everstart available at Walmart. I have a 1982 CE also with the Everstart battery and it works great. I also have a battery tender that I hook up to it whenever I am done driving it for the day. Let me know.
OK guys, i'm at my wits end. I have a 1982 Collectors Edition with roughly 90000 miles on it. Here is the problem, it started up fine yesterday afternoon. I pulled it out of my garage roughly 20' and shut it off. I was having issues with my headlamps but that I think I have figured out. Anyway, got back in it after letting the car sit for about 5 minutes and it wouldn't start. Nothing, not even a hint it wanted to turn over. I put the battery charger on it and it charged up to 100% but still no starting. Possible issues? Starter?
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Assuming your battery connections are good try starting it in NEUTRAL. If it cranks and starts you likely have a bad neutral safety switch or its out of adjustment.
Glad it happened at home. BLock and unlock the car with a key to turn off the security lock-out. We've all done it. If not effective check the codes as Mike wisely prescribed. Though, speaking from experience, you could (should) be overdue for a new fuel pump and sender unit. They all have a high risk of this unpredictable crank/no-start issue, until replaced, especially after 33 years and modern but chemically harsh fuel blends.
If your battery is about 5 years old, I would change it with Everstart available at Walmart. I have a 1982 CE also with the Everstart battery and it works great. I also have a battery tender that I hook up to it whenever I am done driving it for the day. Let me know.
Assuming your battery connections are good try starting it in NEUTRAL. If it cranks and starts you likely have a bad neutral safety switch or its out of adjustment.
Glad it happened at home. BLock and unlock the car with a key to turn off the security lock-out. We've all done it. If not effective check the codes as Mike wisely prescribed. Though, speaking from experience, you could (should) be overdue for a new fuel pump and sender unit. They all have a high risk of this unpredictable crank/no-start issue, until replaced, especially after 33 years and modern but chemically harsh fuel blends.
Having a bad fuel pump would prevent the starter from even turning? My gut feeling from last year was the fuel pump was starting to go but this year so far I hadn't noticed anything ... I'll have to check into that. I dread dropping the tank to replace the pump ...
Check the wiring harness plug between the main engine harness and the starter. It is on the passenger side behind the head. This connection sometimes melts internally causing what you have described.
You can turn the key to "on" and jump the ALDL to get it to flash codes. See the sticky for instructions.
Last edited by Drawmain; Jul 27, 2015 at 05:28 PM.
Reason: added info
you need to see if you have spark. If the oil pressure sending unit doesn't see oil pressure, the ECM won't let the car fire up. The module could have burnt out in the distributor and the worst case scenario.... Timing chain usually snaps when you turn the engine off. If it's cranking faster than normal, see if the rotor is spinning. 90,000miles is a good number for it to happen.
Having a bad fuel pump would prevent the starter from even turning? My gut feeling from last year was the fuel pump was starting to go but this year so far I hadn't noticed anything ... I'll have to check into that. I dread dropping the tank to replace the pump ...
You DO NOT have to remove the tank to remove and replace the pump and sending unit assembly. If you decide to replace the pump, PM me and I will send you a copy of my description of how to do it without removing the tank. The trick is turning the assembly to the right position. Hugh
Having a bad fuel pump would prevent the starter from even turning? My gut feeling from last year was the fuel pump was starting to go but this year so far I hadn't noticed anything ... I'll have to check into that. I dread dropping the tank to replace the pump ...
A bad fuel pump would have nothing to do with the starter turning the motor. Is your engine cranking? When you turn the key on do you see the injectors pulse with fuel? Pull a spark plug wire and see if you have spark. Check those 3 things and get back to us. This will put us all on the right track to help. 82 corvettes are easy to work on fro the most part, you just have to go through the steps.
Go to the "sticky" in the above section and go under "NO START CONDITION(S)" and follow the list, hopefully it will help you correct your problem............Tom
If your starter is not even attempting to start, but your electical circuits are still working, then you have a problem with either the Neutral Start Switch or the starter solenoid.
The most likely of those is the starter solenoid. To test, you need to see if you have 12 vdc between the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid and chassis ground, when you try to start the engine. If you have voltage but no starter turning, then your starter solenoid is bad. If you do NOT have 12 vdc at the "S" terminal when starting, the problem is most likely the NSS. It could either be out of adjustment or it could be defective.
In either instance, DO NOT change out the starter. There is only a very slight chance that the starter is actually involved with this problem.
If your starter is not even attempting to start, but your electical circuits are still working, then you have a problem with either the Neutral Start Switch or the starter solenoid.
The most likely of those is the starter solenoid. To test, you need to see if you have 12 vdc between the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid and chassis ground, when you try to start the engine. If you have voltage but no starter turning, then your starter solenoid is bad. If you do NOT have 12 vdc at the "S" terminal when starting, the problem is most likely the NSS. It could either be out of adjustment or it could be defective.
In either instance, DO NOT change out the starter. There is only a very slight chance that the starter is actually involved with this problem.
Well i'll have to try the solenoid ... I tried starting the car in neutral to no avail.
Again, you can determine if it's the starter solenoid or the NSS by checking voltage at the solenoid "S" terminal when ignition is turned to "Start" position. This is an easy test and will alleviate a lot of wasted time working in the wrong area to solve your problem.
Again, you can determine if it's the starter solenoid or the NSS by checking voltage at the solenoid "S" terminal when ignition is turned to "Start" position. This is an easy test and will alleviate a lot of wasted time working in the wrong area to solve your problem.
All of the electrical circuits seem to function fine when I put the ket to the start or on position. Will get into the solenoid issue with in the next few days. The car won't even attempt to turn over, like there is no "stater" attached to the car ...
Apparently, you don't understand how the starter system works. The ignition switch (when turned to 'start' position) sends voltage to the STARTER SOLENOID; if the solenoid functions properly, it will send voltage to the starter. If it does not work properly, THERE WILL BE NO VOLTAGE SENT TO THE STARTER AND IT WILL NOT TURN.
If the Neutral Start Switch is bad, then NO VOLTAGE will be sent to the starter solenoid. That's why you need to check for voltage at the "S" terminal on the solenoid when the ignition key is turned to 'start' position.
This is my last attempt at trying to help you. It's a simple task to do the voltage check and, from the results, know what part to fix. If you choose not to do it, so be it.....