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T Top weather strip....Any pointers?

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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 10:38 AM
  #1  
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Default T Top weather strip....Any pointers?

Got new weather stripping installed, but now my tops are super hard to get on the car, and once they're on, the alignment of the panels is off a little. I did remove on one side, the latch and tabs, thinking it would make it easier to get the old stripping off. The other side, I did not remove them.

I realize that in time, the new stripping will compress some, but how in the world would that affect the alignment of the panels?

Was thinking I'd loosen the nuts that hold the tabs and latches, and with the panels in place try and wiggle the alignment a bit better.

Any other thoughts on how to fix this?
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 11:58 AM
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I had the same problem with new door weather stripping. I had to slam the doors, and it didn't get much better with time. Even after a year I still had to slam them. Ripped it off and got weather strip from doc rebuild. Now my doors close easily.

I'll probably redo the t-tops with doc rebuild also as they sit a little high at the rear (weather strip is too stiff).
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 03:53 PM
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Only buy the top quality soft weatherstripping because the Chinese stuff is crap....................
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 04:40 PM
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Hi TMP,
It could well be that the new weatherstrip needs to be compressed some; having the roof panel locked in place will do that.
There actually is quite a bit of adjustment available at 4 locations:
The 'probe' in the front outer corner has 2 twelve point bolts that move it around.
The 'wedge' at the rear outer corner moves the roof panel front to back, side to side, and up and down.
The 2 'tongues' on the center bar can be shimmed up and down and also have a bit of front to rear adjustment.
Also the way the front and rear locks/levers are adjusted affects how the panels fit too.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Front outer corner 'probe'.


Plate moves 'wedge' up and down, 'wedge's' threaded stud moves it forward and rearward.


Center 'tongue', front.


Center 'tongue', rear; note shims.
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 05:11 PM
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Give it a few days to compress. I just changed mine and the first time I went to install them, I had to wrench down so hard on the levers I was afraid I was going to crack my glass tops. After 3-5 days, it takes about half that effort now.
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 05:18 PM
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Hey Alan,
If I may jump in, my drivers side rear corner sits high about 1/8 of an inch.
Where would I start to lower it level with the sail?
I didn't think it needed a brand new thread.
Thanks,
Marshal
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Old Sep 1, 2015 | 05:57 PM
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Hi Marshal,
I'd first check to see if the 'wedge' on the body is seating fully in the slot in the 'receiver' in the rear corner of the roof panel.
If it is I'd then loosen the 2 screws in the plate which should allow the plate/'wedge' to move down slightly (unless it's already all the way down).
Also check to see if the adjustment on the locking lever's stud is pulling the panel down far enough.
Start with those 3.
Regards,
Alan

Here's the receiver. Make sure the wedge seats properly and that the white nylon guide is in place to prevent metal to metal contact. (Loud CREAK when going over railroad tracks!)
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 08:42 AM
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I managed to get a better fit by adjusting the wedge mounting bolts and front lock mounting bolts. The T tops sit about 1/8" too high still. I assume the shims added under the wedges would raise the height, so I took them out to try and lower it. Still high.

I'll let it sit for a while before trying anything else.

At this point the front window seals are giving me problems too. When you close the door, the glass hits the outer edge of the seal, and you have to push it in for the glass to seat as it should.

The kit I bought was Ecklers best ..........Whatever that means.
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