C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 10:30 PM
  #21  
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As for stall speed, Greg Ducato, of Phoenix Transmission Products, explained that "a torque converter is like a clutch. Imagine when a clutch is fully released, and you get all the power from the engine. That's stall speed. A 2,500 stall speed doesn't mean you need to rev the motor to 2,500 rpm for the vehicle to move." What it does mean in this case is 2,500 rpm is the limit at which the converter will hold back the engine speed if transmission output is prohibited.



I have a 4000 stall come drive it , tell me I even have a stall converter lol .. You will not be able to , for a few reasons. One it drives normally and if you do punch it to test it out ......... I kill u LOL ...
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:05 AM
  #22  
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So, cripple the performance of the car to save a little fuel? That makes perfect sense, lol.

You can run a mismatched combo if you want. I won't be because doing that just plain sucks. I actually want my car to go when I get on the gas without having to wait for the engine to reach it's powerband. I want to have fun driving my Impala, not hate how it dogs off the line. I spent thousands on the fuel injection, Dakota Digital dash, wheels, suspension and 4l60e that wasn't required to be able to drive it but its way more enjoyable now.

Last edited by lionelhutz; Oct 13, 2015 at 12:10 AM.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:58 AM
  #23  
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The OP said that he doesn't race the car. You have your point and others have theirs. Let the OP use what matters to them.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 07:29 AM
  #24  
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Sure, but you don't chose a higher stall converter based on racing the car.

You don't need a bigger cam because you don't race the car?
You don't need better heads because you don't race the car?
You don't need better wheels and tires because you don't race the car?
You don't need improved suspension because you don't race the car?
You don't build a matched drivetrain package because you don't race the car?
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 07:48 AM
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please don't get into a slanging match over my non-understanding of torque converter mechanics

should be able with my stupid shift work this week to get out to the car on thurs/fri and do a brake stall test etc.


i have always thought that they are a black magic thing.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 08:08 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jjflash65
please don't get into a slanging match over my non-understanding of torque converter mechanics

should be able with my stupid shift work this week to get out to the car on thurs/fri and do a brake stall test etc.


i have always thought that they are a black magic thing.
Your to focused on the stall aspect . You should pull away from a stop NORMALLY period end of story, if your motor is revving to get going IT is not stall speed related..

I should make a video of how a car drives with 4000 stall .. Trust me it is perfectly normal . no revving to start out no slippage at any speed , at 60 if I just touch gas the car speeds up as it should in relation to the power I apply no matter how little I am applying ..

Last edited by diehrd; Oct 13, 2015 at 08:10 AM.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by diehrd
Your to focused on the stall aspect . You should pull away from a stop NORMALLY period end of story, if your motor is revving to get going IT is not stall speed related..

I should make a video of how a car drives with 4000 stall .. Trust me it is perfectly normal . no revving to start out no slippage at any speed , at 60 if I just touch gas the car speeds up as it should in relation to the power I apply no matter how little I am applying ..
Exactly as it should.
Reduced load on the converter reduces stall. IE, lower rear gears, lighter car.
Also less torque to the converter from the engine reduces stall.

should be able with my stupid shift work this week to get out to the car on thurs/fri and do a brake stall test etc.
Don't do the brake stall for a prolonged period of time or multiple times in quick succession. Brake stalling produces gobs of heat inside the converter and can damage it if you get things too hot.
If you don't already have one I would recommend a trans cooler in series with your radiator trans cooler to control higher fluid temps associated with a higher stall converter.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 03:17 PM
  #28  
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I think there is a bigger problem and all the converter stall talk is secondary. Important yes but still secondary.
Basic facts. It's a 3.08 gear. Even with the 700R4 it will do over 60 mph in reverse. At 60mph in od and lockup the final drive is 2.15 @ 1700 rpm. Way too low for the cam. At 60, lockup and od kicked out it's still only turning 2400 rpm. We have no idea what the DCR is or really anything about the engine.
So in my opinion: less stall, less cam, and a lot more gear.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 05:02 PM
  #29  
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Is your trans shifting properly in 1 & 2 and slipping in 3 & 4? My brand new trans burn the 3 & 4 clutches out in 118 miles. Turns out I miss adjusted the TV cable. I adjusted it just as the TCI lock up kit said. My trans bulider told be the TV jacket needs to be all the way back to the bracket and with the throttle a full open the cable needs to be pulled all the way out tight. When I did that it did come out further than the TCI adjustment. The trans bulider took responsibilitty and rebuilt it and sent it back. Great people at Mad Dogs. Lots of help over the phone.

I afraid and hope Im werong that you may have bured clutches from an improper TV cable adjustment. The stall has nothing to do with the cars movement. And yes with large cams you need a higher stall as you will never acheive idle at stops.
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Old Oct 13, 2015 | 07:41 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by tracdogg2
Basic facts. It's a 3.08 gear. Even with the 700R4 it will do over 60 mph in reverse. At 60mph in od and lockup the final drive is 2.15 @ 1700 rpm. Way too low for the cam. At 60, lockup and od kicked out it's still only turning 2400 rpm. We have no idea what the DCR is or really anything about the engine.
So in my opinion: less stall, less cam, and a lot more gear.
we aimed for 9.5 compression and cam was chosen by Howards Cams when the egine specs/usage were given to them.

Originally Posted by Aggitated Monkey
I afraid and hope Im werong that you may have bured clutches from an improper TV cable adjustment.
as i mentioned before,
"bought carb bracket and bits n pieces from BTO, and set it up using there procedure.
also installed there pressure gage for setting the line pressure.
as soon as the throttle lever is moved slightly, the line pressure increases."

aslo with the pan off, we checked the plunger, is fully depressed when full throttle is achived.
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Old Oct 14, 2015 | 10:35 AM
  #31  
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[QUOTE=jjflash65;1590666180]72 sb 30thou over, 186 small valve heads, howards retro hyd roller 272/278 .510/.525, with 3.08 rear, 700r4 and 2800 lockup converter.
build for cruising not a racer...
stall was chosen by engine builder, cam 111145-12 has a range of 1,500-5,600

how do i know if i have the right stall, the vette feels like it revs and goes nowhere...
reversing up a steep driveway, motor screaming, hardly moving..
cruising along in 4th and locked up, put boot into it, lockup disengages, but revs jump high before anything seems to happen..
........................................ ........................................ ........................................ ................


That describes a transmission problem .. Period ... No torque stall speed would ever act like that..

Close tv cable 100% so the cable end is pushed all the way into the sleeve.

Have someone sit in the car and you depress the tv cable lock and ask the person to slowly but fully open the throttle. Release lock and check it is locked.

Road test car..
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