I'm a glutton for punishment.

I DO have holes drilled in my thermostat disc, but the reason is my own.

My temperature pickup is mounted high in the engine, in the intake manifold, very near the thermostat. I am running a 160* thermostat.

I have an issue that is amplified during cold weather driving where the engine water gets hot, then the thermostat 'cracks' allowing extremely cold radiator water into the engine. The cold water cycles through and shuts the thermostat. The thermostat then takes a certain amount of time to re-open in response to the rising engine water temperatures.

What happens is a temperature "bounce" where the temp read through my mechanical AutoMeter gauge climbs very quickly toward 200*, then goes back down to 160*, then back up...etcetera.

To mitigate this, I put several small holes in the thermostat which allows a small amount of the radiator water to cycle through the engine and allow the hot water at the top of the engine to bleed out regardless of thermostat position.

The downside is a small increase in the warm-up cycle time. The thermostat does still dominate the coolant circuit, though, so the solution is far better than full removal of the thermostat.

So...there IS an advantage to having holes in your thermostat in certain situations.

My admittedly limited understanding of the thermostat is that it opens when reaching a preset temperature.

Very basically, if I'm running a 160* thermostat, that means that my engine "centers" at 160* during normal operation. This is the temperature at which the thermostat allows water to flow to the radiator to 'dump' heat.

If I chose to run a 180* thermostat, the engine would "center", or normally run, at 180* being as the thermostat would diminish the transfer of water to the radiator until it 'sees' 180*.

So...isn't that the very definition of "cooler thermostats allow cooler engine temperatures"? That the general temperature of the coolant is, very roughly, 20* cooler when equipped with a thermostat that is 160* versus 180*?

I choose to run a Stewart Stage 2 water pump. I'm running high compression, a hot cam, mechanical lifters, and aluminum heads.

I choose to run a higher flow water pump so the water that is in the hottest portion of the engine is in contact with the engine for a shorter amount of time than if the water was moving slower. This decreases the potential for hot spots in the engine and, it would stand to reason, slightly decreases the temperature of the water exiting the engine.

Yes, it spends less time in the radiator, but it doesn't need to since, as stated, the base temperature of the water ENTERING the radiator is lower.

I'm absolutely certain it spends "enough time" in the radiator as my particular system (450+ HP 350 and a large aluminum BeCool radiator) can easily maintain 160* in the water when racing around town on a 90+* day.

In seeking to "dispel" automotive myths, this thread only serves to perpetuate several of them.

 

Cuz,,,,,, hes full of

And people that actually want to learn read this and believe it...

if you give advice on a technical thread, know what you are talking about, or STFU....

he should be banned form this forum... he gives numerous bad input, as pointed out over and over again .... on this thread along with all the other threads he has chimed in on.

he would not last a day on other forums he was not "protected" on .... they are not so PC

 

Maybe I missed a lot that may have happened before my time in the CF, but I'm not sure that DB was actually trying to stir things up on purpose. On the other hand, I believe that's exactly what the OP is trolling for.

 

Tony- don't start that up-

http://www.smokinvette.com/corvettef...ad.php?t=74666

 

Careful Paul, he might start explaining why cryo treating and REM polishing was a waste of money.

 

No one said you could always take a performance carb out of the box and drop it on any engine and it will always run perfectly. We are talking about making changes to improve performance.It is no different than picking a performance camshaft without matching the rest of the components. Many times the key to double pumper street drive-ability is getting the accelerator pumps dialed in. Pump volumes, pump cams, and pump nozzles can be changed to match the needs of the particular engine. I find you need a little more pump shot than is necessary to reduce flat spots when slamming opening the throttle. It really helps to have a wide band O2 for tuning. I doubt that a certain expert has ever changed an accelerator pump cam. Being a good mechanic on stock vehicles does not necessarily mean you automatically have the skills/experience for non-stock applications. So are his statements true? Yes - in some circumstances - NOT ALL. If someone comes here for information (you have your husband for good info) they could easily be led down the wrong path by this mis-information. This is tech-performance, not the other forums were people argue about how something looks....

 

Believe what you want, that's your choice.
Most of us do not have the time nor the inclination to correct all of toobroke's claimed facts.

In other words it's a futile effort. We are only trying to somehow stem his constant flow of "half-facts" if you will.

BTW the Q-jet is not a vacuum secondary carb.

 

I was wondering if anyone would catch that

 

I'm a bit confused by your statement. Do most people just slam the throttle to full sitting at idle and just hope for the best? So are you saying people can't push the accelerator peddle down at the appropriate speed and just treat it like an ON/OFF switch? And I'm not being sarcastic, I'm curious is this how people drive now days. Is this why most people think you can't drive RWD vehicles in the snow. Why is the idea of modulating the throttle instead of going WOT instantly off idle not practical for most drivers. It's not rocket science.

If I am going to take off hard, I bring the RPM up several thousand RPM at start before dumping the throttle on my manual (or I down shift if I'm in too high of a gear), and on my automatic I use the appropriate torque converter so the RPM raises quickly into the engine's powerband.

I guess if you have a stock torque converter, or if you have a manual and expect a double pumper mechanical carb to work perfectly from 500-1000 rpm @ idle by just slamming the throttle to wide open, I can see why people have issues with them.

 

I've seen 350's with 750 double pumpers that take off just fine when the throttle pedal is stomped to the floor. TBTR claiming they can't work for street driving because they cause the engine to stumble off the line is talking out of his ***. In reality, he doesn't know how to tune one.

 

So if I said 15 things about you and 12 were wrong, you would be ok because "some" of what I said was accurate??? What if I said I saw you kill a dog, kick a cat, push an old lady down, and beat a kid? You'd really be ok with that?

Your reasoning doesn't make sense...he is full of BS and doesn't deserve any more consideration than I should if I had actually said those things about you. You don't get a free pass just because 3 out of 15 statements are "accurate", you've just proven you're a serial BS'er and deserve zero consideration (you as a pronoun, not you specifically). Seriously, the guy should be banned from here but the rules don't allow it. He has zero credibility here and certain other forums would've kicked him off long ago. I've read a lot of the posts he has been "thanked" for and the overwhelming majority of them were false information given to the unsuspecting here. The word needs to be put out to not listen to ANYTHING this guy says, it isn't our responsibility to sort through his BS to find the one or two true statements. It's his BS, his responsibility.

 

Glad to see everyone is enjoying this thread.

 

I am, cheap entertainment

 

toobroke:
http://acidcow.com/pics/20130531/internet_memes_21.jpg

 

 

Looking at an oiled cloth air filter element logic would tell you no dirt could ever get thru it because of it's fluffy appearance and oily nature. I mean you can't see thru it so how could dirt get thru it? But under running conditions the fibers of the cloth get pulled wide open and fine dirt passes thru it with the greatest of ease and that's why the oiled cloth air filters should never be used in dry dusty areas like agricultural or desert areas. They're okay in coastal areas where the amount of airborne dust is almost nonexistent but for other areas where airborne dust is prevalent they're a quick way to destroy your piston rings and cylinder walls. Something the manufacturers uh "forgot" to tell you in their misleading and deceptive advertising. Its best to use the stock pleated paper filters and leave the so-called "high flow" filters to the arm chair racers.

 

Temp closed for review and edit

 

Ok, that took awhile. I wish I'd hear about these sooner.

If you have had a post removed from this thread, it's because it had no relevance to the thread, or it contained conflict or hostility that did not rise to the level of a Warning or Infraction.

Other members (several) have received forum Warnings or more.

Normally, a thread with so much deletable garbage and edits is closed. However, despite the repeated commentary that the OP had no value, there were many posts containing technical information disputing others' assertions. They not only had value, but the fact the thread was 8 pages long (when I started) says a lot of people were participating in the thread because they wanted to.

I will remind everyone that if you think a thread or posts within are not correct or are worthy of dispute, feel free to argue until you are out of breath. However, posts that contain hostility, personal remarks about others peoples intelligence and education, name calling, unacceptable language, etc, will be removed and sanctioned.

And to everyone, including the OP, posts initiating conflict will be sanctioned.

The old line is this: attack ideas, not other members. If you want to debate an idea, do so. If you think the thread is too silly for your sensitivities, move on to something else.

Thanks.

 

I suggest Googling "What Is A Myth" to read what a myth is and how it got started. The funny thing about myths is the longer they are repeated the seemingly truer they become until they are 100% fact.

 

The aftermarket oiled cloth filter manufacturers tell us pleated paper air filters are uh "too restrictive" and then sell us their "high flow" color coordinated oiled cloth filters to give our engines tire smoking power. Damned shame the world's automobile manufacturers haven't discovered this uh "fact" yet and continue putting those inefficient pleated paper filters on their engines. Today's engines produce about 1-1/2 times as much power as the engines of the 60's and 70's but yet they keep on equipping them with those lousy pleated paper filters. Morons!