Dash Harness
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 3
From: Buffalo New York
Dash Harness
I'm getting ready to reinstall my speedometer panel back in my '76. The wiring harness is just hanging in space. I'm afraid to just try to jam the panel in place. There are no J-hooks attached to the firewall to clip the harness to. There are a few places that I can zip tie the harness to the firewall. Good idea? The dash pad is out, and the steering column isn't.
Last edited by billsfan; Jan 16, 2016 at 01:59 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,110
Likes: 4,174
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi bf,
On earlier cars there were 3 large 'J' clips screwed to the back of the speedo and tach housings to guide the harness over them.
Have you checked for any sign of them on your dash pad.
Regards,
Alan
Here are 2 of them.
The harness should hug the top of the 2 housings.
On earlier cars there were 3 large 'J' clips screwed to the back of the speedo and tach housings to guide the harness over them.
Have you checked for any sign of them on your dash pad.
Regards,
Alan
Here are 2 of them.
The harness should hug the top of the 2 housings.
Last edited by Alan 71; Jan 16, 2016 at 03:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 3
From: Buffalo New York
Thanks Alan.
No sign of clips on the dash pad or the speedo pod. There are a couple places to zip tie the harness to the firewall. That should be all I need to easily fit the speedo panel into place. Then I can check it's location before I put the dash pad back in. I just don't want to pinch anything.
No sign of clips on the dash pad or the speedo pod. There are a couple places to zip tie the harness to the firewall. That should be all I need to easily fit the speedo panel into place. Then I can check it's location before I put the dash pad back in. I just don't want to pinch anything.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 253
From: Catlett VA
wiring harness
billsfan- I am also installing the dash harness on my 68 this weekend. I spent a couple hours trying to get the gauge pod back in place without success. I saw Alan71's suggestion about the J hooks. There are none on my speedo or tack, but I will steal a couple from the passenger side of the car. Also- are there any tips for getting the harness into the correct shape? I think I will try heating with a hair drier to form the sharp curves needed on the driver side. New harness has a wrong curve in it that I cannot get out at room temperature. I need the shape like in the photos of the old harness so the harness stays out of the way when the gauge pod goes back in. I've done a couple harnesses in other cars, but this is the most PIA so far. It's like wrestling a python in a phone booth. RA
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
The orientation and sequence of wiring/etc. are important to get all that 'stuff' back in place. The AIM has drawings that show how it is supposed to fit in place. I think there are very few folks who have been able to get all that back in place and buttoned-up UNLESS they tried diligently to match the method used by the factory installers. The bends in the main harness are critical, as well.
If you use zip-ties, they need to be left loose so the wiring can move around a bit as it all goes back together. (ref. the J-hook locations and available space.
If you use zip-ties, they need to be left loose so the wiring can move around a bit as it all goes back together. (ref. the J-hook locations and available space.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jan 17, 2016 at 02:04 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,110
Likes: 4,174
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi ra,
Originally your 68 harness didn't have the J clips as shown in my pictures because in 68 the harness went UNDER the 2 gauge pods but over the steering column. You can certainly add them.
I'm not sure if an original style 68 harness is long enough to route over the gauge pods.
There was recently a LONG thread about this… maybe in the past 2-3 weeks… that you might want to look for.
Regards,
Alan
Originally your 68 harness didn't have the J clips as shown in my pictures because in 68 the harness went UNDER the 2 gauge pods but over the steering column. You can certainly add them.
I'm not sure if an original style 68 harness is long enough to route over the gauge pods.
There was recently a LONG thread about this… maybe in the past 2-3 weeks… that you might want to look for.
Regards,
Alan
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 253
From: Catlett VA
harness
Hi ra,
Originally your 68 harness didn't have the J clips as shown in my pictures because in 68 the harness went UNDER the 2 gauge pods but over the steering column. You can certainly add them.
I'm not sure if an original style 68 harness is long enough to route over the gauge pods.
There was recently a LONG thread about this… maybe in the past 2-3 weeks… that you might want to look for.
Regards,
Alan
Originally your 68 harness didn't have the J clips as shown in my pictures because in 68 the harness went UNDER the 2 gauge pods but over the steering column. You can certainly add them.
I'm not sure if an original style 68 harness is long enough to route over the gauge pods.
There was recently a LONG thread about this… maybe in the past 2-3 weeks… that you might want to look for.
Regards,
Alan
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 396
Likes: 3
From: Buffalo New York
billsfan- I am also installing the dash harness on my 68 this weekend. I spent a couple hours trying to get the gauge pod back in place without success. I saw Alan71's suggestion about the J hooks. There are none on my speedo or tack, but I will steal a couple from the passenger side of the car. Also- are there any tips for getting the harness into the correct shape? I think I will try heating with a hair drier to form the sharp curves needed on the driver side. New harness has a wrong curve in it that I cannot get out at room temperature. I need the shape like in the photos of the old harness so the harness stays out of the way when the gauge pod goes back in. I've done a couple harnesses in other cars, but this is the most PIA so far. It's like wrestling a python in a phone booth. RA
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 557
Likes: 62
From: Sebastian,FL
When I had everything out on my 77 last year I tried the zip tie idea thinking it would work. It didnt it held things in places they shouldnt be and nothing fit. I ended up laying upside down with the seat out and column out and getting everything as needed. Good luck. its not the hardest thing I ever did but certainly not fun. Im only an hour and a half south if I can help you any way
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
When I had everything out on my 77 last year I tried the zip tie idea thinking it would work. It didnt it held things in places they shouldnt be and nothing fit. I ended up laying upside down with the seat out and column out and getting everything as needed. Good luck. its not the hardest thing I ever did but certainly not fun. Im only an hour and a half south if I can help you any way
Attempting to 're-invent the wheel' here is pointless. Getting the wiring harness to attach to the dash panel is how it was installed and if a person secures it differently...they will more tan likely run into fit issues. This is coming from somebody who has dealt with well over a hundred of them.And..getting the column out of the car....or loosened up enough so it can lay down and give you working room and you do not have to fight around it is WORTH IT. Go ahead and try it with the column up ...and I hope you all the success you imagine.
But get it almost in and hear a 'TINK'...and that is where one of your light bulb sockets in the speedo/tach have pulled out of the retainer and the bulb fell into the gauge. Deal with that a couple of times ad then you might change your attack plan. I know I have...and I no longer struggle with them. 'We' have an understanding....if I do it a specific way...the dash goes in as designed without a lot of fuss.
DUB
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 253
From: Catlett VA
Dash harness success
Attempting to 're-invent the wheel' here is pointless. Getting the wiring harness to attach to the dash panel is how it was installed and if a person secures it differently...they will more tan likely run into fit issues. This is coming from somebody who has dealt with well over a hundred of them.And..getting the column out of the car....or loosened up enough so it can lay down and give you working room and you do not have to fight around it is WORTH IT. Go ahead and try it with the column up ...and I hope you all the success you imagine.
But get it almost in and hear a 'TINK'...and that is where one of your light bulb sockets in the speedo/tach have pulled out of the retainer and the bulb fell into the gauge. Deal with that a couple of times ad then you might change your attack plan. I know I have...and I no longer struggle with them. 'We' have an understanding....if I do it a specific way...the dash goes in as designed without a lot of fuss.
DUB
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,112
From: Crossville TN
Replacing the glass bulbs is NOT the issue. The problem with the lamp sockets is that the little [pressed-in] metal ring comes loose from the socket and it AND the bulb fall out into the instrument being lit.
When working in the dash area, ALWAYS remove accessible bulb sockets (note where they are each located; mark them if necessary), pull the bulb and then the little metal ring from the plastic socket. Mix up a bit of epoxy and place a dab over the places where the pins on the ring mate with the socket. Reinstall the ring and press it firmly in place. Let the epoxy harden, reinstall the bulb and put the sockets back in place.
They will never be a problem again. You can buy other [better] sockets, but this is easier [than splicing wires] and is a permanent fix.
When working in the dash area, ALWAYS remove accessible bulb sockets (note where they are each located; mark them if necessary), pull the bulb and then the little metal ring from the plastic socket. Mix up a bit of epoxy and place a dab over the places where the pins on the ring mate with the socket. Reinstall the ring and press it firmly in place. Let the epoxy harden, reinstall the bulb and put the sockets back in place.
They will never be a problem again. You can buy other [better] sockets, but this is easier [than splicing wires] and is a permanent fix.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 253
From: Catlett VA
dash harness
Replacing the glass bulbs is NOT the issue. The problem with the lamp sockets is that the little [pressed-in] metal ring comes loose from the socket and it AND the bulb fall out into the instrument being lit.
When working in the dash area, ALWAYS remove accessible bulb sockets (note where they are each located; mark them if necessary), pull the bulb and then the little metal ring from the plastic socket. Mix up a bit of epoxy and place a dab over the places where the pins on the ring mate with the socket. Reinstall the ring and press it firmly in place. Let the epoxy harden, reinstall the bulb and put the sockets back in place.
They will never be a problem again. You can buy other [better] sockets, but this is easier [than splicing wires] and is a permanent fix.
When working in the dash area, ALWAYS remove accessible bulb sockets (note where they are each located; mark them if necessary), pull the bulb and then the little metal ring from the plastic socket. Mix up a bit of epoxy and place a dab over the places where the pins on the ring mate with the socket. Reinstall the ring and press it firmly in place. Let the epoxy harden, reinstall the bulb and put the sockets back in place.
They will never be a problem again. You can buy other [better] sockets, but this is easier [than splicing wires] and is a permanent fix.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 253
From: Catlett VA
harness
RA