It would take till before the BANG was heard now back to our show........

 

I installed my SD bar about a year and a half ago. PRIOR to getting my alignment.

The control arms are shimmed, not the bar, If I read question in an above post correctly.

I had full weight on the suspension and couldn't get the C/A nut loose (where the bar mounts). I jacked the weight off the tire so slightly and the nut loosened up, bolted up the mount. Repeat for the other side then put the weight back on ground
Then mounted up the bar loosely. Turned the bar by hand to elongate it until I couldn't turn it further. Put a wrench on the bar and turned it another 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn, I forget. Took it to the alignment shop for a final adjustment.

I have about 1/8" clearance between the pully and the bar, about 1/4" to the fan, on my SB mechanical fan '78.

I have a video somewhere..........


EDIT: That was fast:


Ignore the tic tic tic, that was the fan touching the shroud, and since has been resolved.

 

Are all the bars created equal? Is vendor bar better than others?

 

Honestly... I guess there may be one that may be better than another...but a lot of it depends on what you are doing with the car. If you are driving it VERY, VERY SPIRITED in an autocross every week...than I would feel that the wall thickness of the tube and the the threaded end going into it along with the spherical end could make a difference. And this is due torsional stresses that 'could possibly' effect a thinner walled tube and smaller end spherical end on the tube.

For normal street driving where you get SPIRITED from time to time....I guess it would not matter...within reason. Because as I wrote in one of my past replies...when the spreader bar is installed it is basically completing a triangle of the cradle...thus making it very strong. And with this spreader bar being a part of this triangle...IF the spreader bar for some odd reason bends downwards and bows....then the effectiveness of this spreader bar is lost and it will continue on possibly bending further....BUT that depends on how much aggression the frame is going through during driving. I KNOW it is a STRETCH actually thinking that this bar will bend...but you never know.

I do not have a preference on these spreader bars.

DUB

 

CLOSE.....................but I need a time/at least an estimate.

Let me help you get started.........an M60 fires a round approx. 0.300" in diameter.....You take it from here......

(I need an Engineer to jump in!)

 

OK...I will give it a try.

From what I found the fire rate is roughly 550 rounds per minute....so that is 9.17 rounds per second.

And the only things I know about this weapon is that my old employer used it while he was a gunner in a helicopter and would tell me 'stuff'...if my memory serves me correctly on it being the same weapon. I can not remember if he had a 50 caliber or this 7.62 M60...honestly can not remember.

And the few times I thing it was possibly used on Mythbusters and Mail Call and also on the TV show that made custom weapons for people and would shoot them.

So with all that..I guess person who really knew the weapon and knew how it would react...could do this in ONE second....because I have a +/- of a half second. 9 rounds in the waist...I think that should me more than enough.,,,,but what do I know...I never had to actually deal with this in a real world situation.

DUB

 

YEAH...it may be 0.300" going in...but coming out I am sure is QUITE larger than that....I can only assume.....never being there to actually see what happens.

DUB

 

I can tell you what the Infantry training schools was teaching in the mid 80's in the Marine Corps.
Take the slack out of the pintail using slight outward check pressure against the butt stock.
Hold trigger and count 1001, 1002, 1003.
That was a controlled burst rate.
I believe about each 1000 count was a 3 round burst.
It decimated what ever I was aiming at.
With a tri pod, I was wicked deadly with the M-60.
The M-2 Browning 50 cal was just insane when you shot something.
That's from a grunt Oh Rah.
Marshal

Oh it was 600 rds per min on a sustained rate but you would smoke the barrel first

 

Thanks Dub and Marshal135....you guys have really put some thought and/or experience into your replies.....

I have amnesia related to Nam experiences......but I just had a short flashback while thinking about what you said: The left doorgunner had to take his M60 off the window mounting bracket to aim up a high riverbank at enemy soldiers shooting at our helicopter/the mount wouldn't allow the M60 to tilt upward enough. He held the M60 with his left hand over the top of the barrel to keep it from "climbing" (you do what you have to do at the moment to keep from dying) and by the butterflies ("twin" handles because an aviation M60 doesn't have a butt) with his right hand. Even though he wore aviation gloves, his left hand was smoking after firing the M60 in 50 & 100 round bursts for about a minute. As we took off We had to take a screwdriver and pry his left hand off the barrel because it cramped and he couldn't let go of it. The glove "fingers" were burned off and the flesh of his fingers was beginning to stick to top of the barrel......one brave man! Memories---aren't they terrific.


Here's another hint......"What is the average diameter of a man's waist if he weighs approx. 130 to 160 pounds and is in very good physical condition?"

This is really something that can be calculated.......where are our Engineers?



In the meantime....while everyone is thinking..........

how about more spreader bar comments/advice?

 

Its like being on OT without being in OT. There's a video of a Taliban type dude getting obliterated by one sniper shot. Based on caliber etc my guess is 1 to 3 shots to halve someone.

 

Good try jim2527..........but the human body "stands up" to 30 caliber rounds much better than to 50 caliber rounds.......the M60 uses the "30 caliber" round.

 

Update!!!

The current issue of Vette Magazine has an extensive article on the C2/C3 frame flexibility issues (that are well known as many have articulated in this thread, despite folks who insist they are not true). Topics mentioned in the article are well documented frame flex issues with the C2/C3 frames, door opening/closing issues on a lift, convertible latch issues driving down a driveway, much less on the road, weakness of the frame materials used in construction and how the materials were formed to make the frame, recognition of the frame flex issues over 30 years ago as documented by the Chevy Power manual, lack of proper welds on the frame, etc....all these issues were mentioned by various folks on this thread....FACT!

 

That depends....

Is the man a "small block" or a "big block?"

I made my own spreader bar w/ a panhard bar and some 2" angle iron. My car is neither a big block or a small block- just has a few extra cylinders and I needed to clear a dry sump pump.


Speedway motors had it on their Garage Sale $50



Prettied up w/ some black paint...cut the angle iron- made it look a little better and welded on the mounts



Bolted it on -drivers side-Yep, I know the bolt on the pump is not tight- making a correct size spacer for the HTD gear...



Pass side-



Bolted in the Bar-



Adjusted it till snug-

 

Thank you Richard - that is a really unique looking spread bar, but I can see it's value and design advantages. Looks really good on your setup. Thanks for the pics and input!

 

 

NICE job Richard...as always.

DUB

 

My 79 with no rust no damage ..door sag as well when on jack .

 

I found the same thing with my 496. Its not even close to being able to go on there.

 

I know this is an old thread, but does anyone happen to know how many inches that bend is on the above panhard bar 3.5", 4.5" or 5.5" and what the total length is of the bar? Thanks

 

Here you go-

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Light...-22,80490.html

since the pictures went away-