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while in Carlisle we saw a 67 (i believe) that was named "Zora's Pick" or Zora's Choice" or something like that...anyway...
it had a "Richmond" 6 speed transmission in it...has anyone here ever heard of one of these??
the guy said that it was a "bolt on" type deal with the exception of shortening the drive shaft...
what an awesome mod this would be! he said it was just like driving the 4 speed except he had two extra gears and that at highway speeds he turned around 2000-2500 RPMs...
i hate that my 4 speed turns 3500-4000...i kind of have a feeling that that had something to do with my problems coming home from Carlisle...
we had pushed pretty hard that day, putting on around 600 miles at speeds of 70+ MPH...i think that those kind of RPMs for that kind of distance on a motor with that kind of milage could have caused my problem...
at any rate...i would LOVE to go to a 6 speed...
anyone heard of one of these or know of any other choices available??
I have one. It is the best alteration to the car that I have made. With 3.08 rear end I truly have a gear vor every need. Mine was also a bolt up; but, to make installation easier, converting the welded frame crossmember to a bolt on design like used for automatic cars is a very good idea. Otherwise the only way to get the tranny out is to pull the engine.
The Richmond 5 speed does not neet to have a shortened drive shaft for the rear cross member converted to install. But the Longs shifter that comes with the 6 speed is much superior to the Hurst. The 5 speed Richmond really isn't a bad way to go!
The 5 & 6 speed trannies have the same gears 1-5. There is some amount of customization available to choose different 1st and 6 gears if desired. I have a 3.27 1st which is the standard, and a .82 overdirve instead of the .76. Richmond said that on a high torque engine, the .76 can be a weak link. The .82 would be much stronger.
Check on the Tremec TKO 5-speed------------same first gear and same overdrive and costs about a grand less! Installation is a little more involved, but it can handle more torque. On paper, with my 3:08 rear, the car should tach at 1760 rpm's-----a little more than a high idle. Should be a blast to cruise on the interstate! Just my 2 cents....... Rick :chevy
i see the richmond is about $3000...is there any chance of finding a good used one? and if i do...are they expensive to repair if i got one and it needed work?
also,does anybody know about any other sites to check out the richmond??
the richmond site kinda sucks and dosnt really tell much...
also...the Tremec TKO 5-speed...whats the deal with that one??
where do i find info online about that one??
what do some of you know about that one??
i see the richmond is about $3000...is there any chance of finding a good used one? and if i do...are they expensive to repair if i got one and it needed work?
also,does anybody know about any other sites to check out the richmond??
the richmond site kinda sucks and dosnt really tell much...
also...the Tremec TKO 5-speed...whats the deal with that one??
where do i find info online about that one??
what do some of you know about that one??
also...are there any other options???
The Tremec TKO is the cheapest and strongest alternative if you want an overdrive gear (.68). This transmission bolts right on the existing bellhousing (the GM version).
Here are the main modifications to install the TKO:
1) shortening the driveshaft
2) cutting a hole into the tunnel where the shifter comes up and cover the hole where the old shifter came up
3) modify the console or weld a bracket on the shifter to space it to the correct location (shifter comes up in the middle)
4) Get a special bracket ($80) from Bowtie Overdrives to mount the tranny to the existing crossmember or get a custom $200 crossmember
5) You need a special Yoke $225 and a special U-joint (I can provide you with part numbers if needed)
Another option you should check out is a Super T-10 with a W or Z gear set from TexRacing. It has a 3.4 first gear and a 1:1 fourth so with a 2.7 or 3.08 rear end you still have an aggressive first gear and a very low RPM at cruise fourth. It is a direct bolt in with no mods.
Last time I checked, it was about $1500.
Got R.O.D.'s in both cars........best conversion you could make! Bolts into the C-2 and C-3 without modifying the frame- although an auto. trans. removeable crossmember would be helpful (the '79 was an A/T 350).
Driveshaft stays the same- just change the front yoke to TH400.
They are a little pricey, but the transformation is spectacular! And all other overdrives are NOT a bolt-in.
:yesnod: :chevy :chevy :yesnod:
with a 2.7 or 3.08 rear end you still have an aggressive first gear and a very low RPM at cruise fourth. It is a direct bolt in with no mods.
Last time I checked, it was about $1500.
i have a 3.55 rear end...how will that be or would i need to change that too?
Bolts into the C-2 and C-3 without modifying the frame- although an auto. trans. removeable crossmember would be helpful (the '79 was an A/T 350).
We seem to be getting conflicting views. Some are saying the ROD6 is a direct bolt in requiring nothing, others I have spoken to have even sent me pictures of the modifications they had to do to get the ROD6 into their cars.
Richmond Gears website seems to disagree with the direct bolt in method - this comes directly from their pdf instructions for the install of the ROD6. http://richmondgear.com/
To install the 6-speed, the transmission mount must be moved to the rear 3.75”.
This has been accomplished by several methods. Some cross-members have a
removable center extension that can be removed and re-fabricated. Some
extensions are welded in and have to be cut out and re-fabricated. Another
method commonly used is to cut the center section out of the cross-member and
weld end plates with bolt holes on each end, then fabricate a removable center
section. This way the motor does not have to be pulled to install or remove the
transmission. Some have also cut out the complete cross-member and made a
frame to frame bolt-in crossmember. On some of the Corvettes, a pulley for the
emergency brake cable needs to be relocated. When relocating the transmission
mount, check the driveline angle in the car. If the mount is too high, the
transmission will hit the car floor pan, and it will change the drive shaft angle,
which could cause a vibration.
Some Muncie and T-10 transmissions have a 10 spline input and 27 spline
output. Some have a 26 spline input and 32 spline output. The 6-speed has a
32 spline output, so you may have to change the drive shaft yoke. For a
Corvette, the yoke has to be open end. A Chevrolet number for this yoke is
3930827. The hub on this yoke may be too long for the Richmond 6-speed. The
hub length on this yoke should be cut to approximately 3” long. When installed,
2” to 2 ¼” of the hub should be in the transmission, which would leave ¾” to 1”
from the hub shoulder to the tail-housing seal. In most instances, the drive shaft
length is close enough to meet these dimensions.
The 6-speed uses the same bell-housing, flywheel, pilot bearing, throw-out
bearing and pressure plate as the T-10 or Muncie.
The 6-speed can be supplied with a 10 or 26 spline input. If using a high torque
motor or going to change the clutch anyway, use the 26 spline clutch, because
the 26 fine splines are not cut as deep into the shaft as the 10 splines, which
makes the 26 spline input 40 percent stronger.
T-10 or Muncie rubber transmission mount and speedometer parts may be
reused or new parts are available from Chevrolet.
The shifter will be approximately 1” to the rear of the current location and may
have to be cut 1” from the backside of the shifter hole under the console, but the
shifter will fit the console with no modification to the console.
ive been wanting the ROD 6 for a while now, but am afraid to go with it b/c of the shifter issues....I do a lot of racing and couldnt afford to miss gears on a constant basis that seems to happen to ROD owner quite often. Anyone resolve any of these issues?
If not, I might just go with the Tremec instead
Chris
Here is the website for the Tremec trannies. I haven't found info yet on fit for the vettes, but it does list gear ratios. Go to Products, then Light Duty. I'm looking at the specs and various trannies now.