Engine test run
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
Not knowing what year you are referring to ( always WISE to let us know what year you have)....because there is a BIG difference in cranking an engine for a 1969....versus that of a 1982 which is fuel injected computer controlled....so I am responding to a NON fuel injected computer controlled engine.
Make sure the frame is either safely supported and will not fall off any jack stands....and THINK THINGS THROUGH on making sure the radiator support is CORRECTLY secured...and depending on if you have a clutch fan and shroud...if you are going to use them or have an alternate source of air blowing into the radiator.
As for the electrical...due to the body not being there so you will have to deal with running a wiring set up to get things to start and work correctly....and that also includes wiring for gauges or using aftermarket gauges like I do so I can watch water temp, oil pressure and some times I check to make sure the alternator is doing its job.
DUB
Make sure the frame is either safely supported and will not fall off any jack stands....and THINK THINGS THROUGH on making sure the radiator support is CORRECTLY secured...and depending on if you have a clutch fan and shroud...if you are going to use them or have an alternate source of air blowing into the radiator.
As for the electrical...due to the body not being there so you will have to deal with running a wiring set up to get things to start and work correctly....and that also includes wiring for gauges or using aftermarket gauges like I do so I can watch water temp, oil pressure and some times I check to make sure the alternator is doing its job.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Mar 4, 2016 at 07:08 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 78
Likes: 4
From: St. Louis
Not knowing what year you are referring to ( always WISE to let us know what year you have)....because there is a BIG difference in cranking an engine for a 1969....versus that of a 1982 which is fuel injected computer controlled....so I am responding to a NON fuel injected computer controlled engine.
Make sure the frame is either safely supported and will not fall off any jack stands....and THINK THINGS THROUGH on making sure the radiator support is CORRECTLY secured...and depending on if you have a clutch fan and shroud...if you are going to use them or have an alternate source of air blowing into the radiator.
As for the electrical...due to the body not being there so you will have to deal with running a wiring set up to get things to start and work correctly....and that also includes wiring for gauges or using aftermarket gauges like I do so I can watch water temp, oil pressure and some times I check to make sure the alternator is doing its job.
DUB
Make sure the frame is either safely supported and will not fall off any jack stands....and THINK THINGS THROUGH on making sure the radiator support is CORRECTLY secured...and depending on if you have a clutch fan and shroud...if you are going to use them or have an alternate source of air blowing into the radiator.
As for the electrical...due to the body not being there so you will have to deal with running a wiring set up to get things to start and work correctly....and that also includes wiring for gauges or using aftermarket gauges like I do so I can watch water temp, oil pressure and some times I check to make sure the alternator is doing its job.
DUB
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 78
Likes: 4
From: St. Louis
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
For whatever this is worth to who may care.
I get at this point in a restoration from time to time...and depending on the condition of the body (stripped off paint or not) ...I prefer to break in the engine when the body is not there myself. That way I can get it running relatively well and put some hours on it before I set the body back down. I know it may seem pointless...but I guess it is a mental thing for me.
And sometimes I break the engine and run it on one type of exhaust system (usually crappy one that does not matter)...and then install the new exhaust system. I often times have cast iron manifolds coated in a heat coating and they prefer that I do not break the engine in with them...so I use a crappy set that does not matter but still function well....and as for the exhaust pipes....I run rusty pipes that I have and when I get several hours on it....and the engine temps seemed to have settled down....I then install the coated exhaust manifolds and stainless system.
DUB
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
If you have everything plumbed up on the chassis (fuel lines, exhaust, coolant) all you need to do is get a remote starter switch to crank it over and power to the coil as it is running. Just actuate throttle by hand or lock it in place where you need with clamp, etc.
You should be able to do that if you need to. I'm just not sure why you would need to do it, if the engine was already 'proved' on a dyno.
You should be able to do that if you need to. I'm just not sure why you would need to do it, if the engine was already 'proved' on a dyno.
