When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Trying to get the temp gauge working properly in my 77, and thought I had it. I started the car. I have a mechanical gauge to the head and the stock gauge to intake (sending units) Well they both started working and moving up. Once the engine got to about 205, both gauges were reading 205, so I was happy, but when the thermostat opens and the Mechanical gauge goes down to about 160-170, the stock gauge does not. Any ideas?
One gauge is closer to the return from the radiator, the other is closer to the feed to the radiator - engine to radiator hose. I would check the readings with a digital gauge to be sure. That is my best guess.
I get a 10 degree difference between the head and the manifold on my 71. High flow stat and spotless internals on the engine - just rebuilt.
Water temp in the head is more relevant. The stock system uses a sending unit in the left cylinder head. Just use the one in the car with stock sender in the head.
Water temp in the head is more relevant. The stock system uses a sending unit in the left cylinder head. Just use the one in the car with stock sender in the head.
I understand that but if the gauges stays the way it is, I'll never know if the t stat is working basically
One gauge is closer to the return from the radiator, the other is closer to the feed to the radiator - engine to radiator hose. I would check the readings with a digital gauge to be sure. That is my best guess.
I get a 10 degree difference between the head and the manifold on my 71. High flow stat and spotless internals on the engine - just rebuilt.
So is my engine, I could live with 10 degress, but 35-45 is too much for my comfort
Trying to get the temp gauge working properly in my 77, and thought I had it. I started the car. I have a mechanical gauge to the head and the stock gauge to intake (sending units) Well they both started working and moving up. Once the engine got to about 205, both gauges were reading 205, so I was happy, but when the thermostat opens and the Mechanical gauge goes down to about 160-170, the stock gauge does not. Any ideas?
It could be a combination of things.. Location of the sender, the fact that the mechanical gauge is going to read more responsive than the electrical gauge and possibly an issue with the sending unit.
The senders have a wide margin for error when ascending from heat too. When we tested the senders years back the ohms going up varied from the ohms going down but they always came down eventually.
You might try a different sender and see if this corrects the issue.
You won't know "when" the T-stat is opening. But you will know that it IS opening properly, because it levels off at acceptable running temperature. If the stat did not open, your engine temps would quickly climb to 240*F or higher.
It could be a combination of things.. Location of the sender, the fact that the mechanical gauge is going to read more responsive than the electrical gauge and possibly an issue with the sending unit.
The senders have a wide margin for error when ascending from heat too. When we tested the senders years back the ohms going up varied from the ohms going down but they always came down eventually.
You might try a different sender and see if this corrects the issue.
Willcox
Wilcox, the sending unit I got was the one that advanced auto parts said was stock for the the 77 Corvette. It looks like a 3/4 npt. Thing is, my heads only have half or 3/8 threads. Any suggestions. Also do you sell sending units that are for sure the correct ohms for the 1977 year?
Wilcox, the sending unit I got was the one that advanced auto parts said was stock for the the 77 Corvette. It looks like a 3/4 npt. Thing is, my heads only have half or 3/8 threads. Any suggestions. Also do you sell sending units that are for sure the correct ohms for the 1977 year?
You won't know "when" the T-stat is opening. But you will know that it IS opening properly, because it levels off at acceptable running temperature. If the stat did not open, your engine temps would quickly climb to 240*F or higher.
I understand that. But what I don't like is the idea that my gauge is telling me im driving around at 205, and in reality I'm driving at 165
Then if the thermostat is working it should not run 165. It should run 185 or more. Maybe your cooling system is so efficient the thermostat never opens. Normally not the case
Then if the thermostat is working it should not run 165. It should run 185 or more. Maybe your cooling system is so efficient the thermostat never opens. Normally not the case
If that is the case, then wouldn't the Mechanical gauge not go up to 205-210, then drop quickly to about 165-170 after a few minutes?
Wilcox, the sending unit I got was the one that advanced auto parts said was stock for the the 77 Corvette. It looks like a 3/4 npt. Thing is, my heads only have half or 3/8 threads. Any suggestions. Also do you sell sending units that are for sure the correct ohms for the 1977 year?
The sender is probably stock but the ohms won't read correctly regardless of where you get the sender. Some will be closer than others though. But the aftermarket heads all have 3/8"npt threads for the senders and unless you have another place to screw in the stock sender you'll need one 3/8"
The sender is probably stock but the ohms won't read correctly regardless of where you get the sender. Some will be closer than others though. But the aftermarket heads all have 3/8"npt threads for the senders and unless you have another place to screw in the stock sender you'll need one 3/8"
So in theory, I could go by a 3/8 sending unit for my heads, then your adjustable resistor to mate the gauge and the sending unit correct? Obviously I would need to know the ohms of the sending unit I get
So in theory, I could go by a 3/8 sending unit for my heads, then your adjustable resistor to mate the gauge and the sending unit correct? Obviously I would need to know the ohms of the sending unit I get
No...each sender has a "curve" to the resistance. Unique to match each gauge. If you did manage to get it set, it would be accurate at only one temperature.
No...each sender has a "curve" to the resistance. Unique to match each gauge. If you did manage to get it set, it would be accurate at only one temperature.
No...each sender has a "curve" to the resistance. Unique to match each gauge. If you did manage to get it set, it would be accurate at only one temperature.
Mike... If you add resistance to the input line your are correct but the adjustable resistor is not installed inline. The adjustable resistor is installed on the dash unit in place of the stock resistor. Because the sender and the dash unit are both non linear the only way to make a linear change is to change the actual gauge resistor. This allows you to calibrate the dash unit to the sender.
Here is a video on how we did this... and why the adjustable resistor we make is awesome.
65-67
68-76
1977-1982
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Apr 7, 2016 at 05:02 PM.
So in theory, I could go by a 3/8 sending unit for my heads, then your adjustable resistor to mate the gauge and the sending unit correct? Obviously I would need to know the ohms of the sending unit I get
If you buy a factory sender that is 3/8 npt yes. I know there are aftermarket senders out there but I don't have any clue what the value range is on other aftermarket senders... Corvette didn't use them so I never tested them.