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I rebuilt the carburetor and found lots of rush in the filter. The tank looks clean from above, but when I got a scope in the tank it looks like the top of the tank has rust. The car has been sitting for about 8 months. I added an inline filter at the tank.
Do I need to replace the tank? Or is there a way to treat the tank?
1970 just completed rebuilt 383 and frame off restoration. I am about to put the body back on the frame. Jut like the other 100 things now is the time to change if I have to.
The tank must be removed though to apply it. My tank had little pin holes and rust. It had been left under a tree for who knows how long.
After removing the dead frog, I spent some time really cleaning it and then following the directions of this kit. I used a hair drier to ensure it was really dry in between processes. That was 10 years ago.
Replacement fuel tanks are readily available. If you are going to go to all the trouble to pull the tank out, $300 for a new tank seems pretty reasonable.
I worry about putting a coating on the inside of the tank. If it ever starts to come off you've got a whole other set of problems. Replacement tanks really aren't all that expensive. I've used POR products as well, and the do stick like snot to a screen door. I've seen them lose their finish, but they don't seem to peel.
If the tank does not have any pinholes in it, just turn tank upside down and pour a quart (or more) of CLR in it. Slosh it around and let sit; do this a few times to make sure all the rust has been eliminated.
If there is some RELIABLE coating that you can apply in the same manner, go for it. Otherwise, just rinse it out and dry it well, then install with a servicible fuel filter (all metal, please) close to the fuel line outlet.
Interestingly, I just got my "Smoke Signals" magazine [Pontiac periodical] in the mail today. And, one of the articles is how to remove rust from the inside of a fuel tank! They used detergents to clean everything but rust out of the tank; then, used a battery charger (with 8-10 amp capacity) and a steel rebar rod as a sacrificial anode to un-plate the rust from the tank to the rebar rod.
If you want to try that, I'll figure a way to get you the article or, at least, the content via PM.
Interestingly, I just got my "Smoke Signals" magazine [Pontiac periodical] in the mail today. And, one of the articles is how to remove rust from the inside of a fuel tank! They used detergents to clean everything but rust out of the tank; then, used a battery charger (with 8-10 amp capacity) and a steel rebar rod as a sacrificial anode to un-plate the rust from the tank to the rebar rod.
If you want to try that, I'll figure a way to get you the article or, at least, the content via PM.
That is such a cool idea I would probably do it just so I could tell the story.
Interestingly, I just got my "Smoke Signals" magazine [Pontiac periodical] in the mail today. And, one of the articles is how to remove rust from the inside of a fuel tank! They used detergents to clean everything but rust out of the tank; then, used a battery charger (with 8-10 amp capacity) and a steel rebar rod as a sacrificial anode to un-plate the rust from the tank to the rebar rod.
If you want to try that, I'll figure a way to get you the article or, at least, the content via PM.
Interesting love to learn more. I am currently leaning towards cleaning it and using the POR sealant.
Yes. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda and water was used as the plating fluid for the tank. One tablespoon of soda per gallon of water in the tank [using more does not improve results]. The 'Smoke Signals' article provides good tips on how to do this properly.
Last edited by 7T1vette; May 10, 2016 at 10:37 AM.