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Windshield Chrome removal

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Old May 11, 2016 | 06:08 PM
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Default Windshield Chrome removal

How do you remove the top piece of chrome on a C3 roadster windshield frame? I have to replace the windshield and want to inspect the upper windshield frame as I have rust falling from it into the passenger cockpit. I know that the C3's have a history of the frames rotting out and now is the time to replace it if I have to.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 06:31 PM
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Hi f,
The weatherstrip retainer on each a-pillar will need to be removed first, then the ss reveal molding on each a-pillar can be unscrewed.
This will allow you to carefully pry up the long thin piece of ss trim at the top of the windshield. CAREFULLY!
Then you can remove the large piece of ss trim that is held in place by screws.
You'll then see the 3 sides of the windshield frame except for the small area in the upper corners of the header. Those 2 corner pieces can really only be removed and REINSTALLED while the glass is OUT.
Do you have an Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) for your car? It has a page that shows how this trim is installed.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
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Old May 11, 2016 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi f,
The weatherstrip retainer on each a-pillar will need to be removed first, then the ss reveal molding on each a-pillar can be unscrewed.
This will allow you to carefully pry up the long thin piece of ss trim at the top of the windshield. CAREFULLY!
Then you can remove the large piece of ss trim that is held in place by screws.
You'll then see the 3 sides of the windshield frame except for the small area in the upper corners of the header. Those 2 corner pieces can really only be removed and REINSTALLED while the glass is OUT.
Do you have an Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) for your car? It has a page that shows how this trim is installed.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan, I appreciate the reply. No, I do not have the Assembly Instruction Manual, but have been looking for one on eBay, but I may have to bite the bullet and spend the big bucks.
tnx again,........Dale
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Old May 11, 2016 | 07:07 PM
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AS Alan mentioned..you need to remove the pillar moldings on each side.

Then there is a special tool used to release the top trim for the windshield (the narrow long one).

http://images.cjponyparts.com/media/.../w/ew25077.jpg


When that is off then you have to remove you inner upper molding...which will require removing the Phillips head screws and your sun visors also. Then you will see the screws that are holding the large wide upper stainless trim.... remove them and the trim will come off.

When you get you new windshield installed...MAKE SURE your car is ON THE GROUND and NOT up on jack stands....OR...you will regret it!!!!!!!!!!!!

AND...hopefully the people who put your windshield in KNOW what thy are doing...becasue to me....it is SO IMPORTANT that when the windshield is being installed that it is set correctly so when the stainless trim is attached...the glass is up against it and NO major gaps...so it looks factory.

AND whatever you do...DO NOT allow the glass installing company worker to plaster the windshield urethane on the backside of your pilaster post stainless trim to seal it against the windshield frame. IT just WILL NOT WORK correctly....and I KNOW many glass installers 'feel' that teh windshield urethane is a 'fix-all' for water leaks ...and it IS NOT!!!

DUB
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Old May 11, 2016 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
AS Alan mentioned..you need to remove the pillar moldings on each side.

Then there is a special tool used to release the top trim for the windshield (the narrow long one).

http://images.cjponyparts.com/media/.../w/ew25077.jpg


When that is off then you have to remove you inner upper molding...which will require removing the Phillips head screws and your sun visors also. Then you will see the screws that are holding the large wide upper stainless trim.... remove them and the trim will come off.

When you get you new windshield installed...MAKE SURE your car is ON THE GROUND and NOT up on jack stands....OR...you will regret it!!!!!!!!!!!!

AND...hopefully the people who put your windshield in KNOW what thy are doing...becasue to me....it is SO IMPORTANT that when the windshield is being installed that it is set correctly so when the stainless trim is attached...the glass is up against it and NO major gaps...so it looks factory.

AND whatever you do...DO NOT allow the glass installing company worker to plaster the windshield urethane on the backside of your pilaster post stainless trim to seal it against the windshield frame. IT just WILL NOT WORK correctly....and I KNOW many glass installers 'feel' that teh windshield urethane is a 'fix-all' for water leaks ...and it IS NOT!!!

DUB
Thanks for the advise Dub. I have been searching for a glass shop that actually cares about their customer's vehicles. The one that I like the best is about 20 miles away, and the guy is a real car nut and has several high end, restored vehicles that he has restored himself.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fatboy999
Thanks for the advise Dub. I have been searching for a glass shop that actually cares about their customer's vehicles. The one that I like the best is about 20 miles away, and the guy is a real car nut and has several high end, restored vehicles that he has restored himself.


When I get my glass guys to put one in for me.

There is a lot of set-up performed...and they cut the stands for the glass to raise it in the top outer corners. The trim is re-installed ( with or without the glass in place.... so a piece of tape can be applied to the top narrow trim and the wide stainless header trim....SO when the top windshield trim is being installed....you simply line up the tape so it goes on RIGHT the first time...because you know that it is correctly positioned side to side so the side pillar stainless trims cover it correctly.

KEEP IN MIND that the surface where the windshield urethane is going to be applied to the steel windshield frame. You will want to make sure you follow the suggestions of the glass installer BECAUSE...in most cases....they will NOT want you to paint this surface. AND that is because of SHEAR. Using the correct primer so the primer will not SHEAR off the steel in the event of an impact is IMPORTANT...and MANY glass installers follow a strict procedure to keep them from having a problem that they are liable for. SO..I would NOT recommend priming the heck out of it and then applying paint to this flat surface. In many/most cases...if it is bare steel or lightly coated in an epoxy primer is best. Less film build and layering thus less chance of material shearing from one another.

DUB
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Old May 13, 2016 | 06:18 PM
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Take Dub's advice he does it for a living and won't steer you wrong. He has been a key person that you can count on when you need or have a question.
RVZIO
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