She got HOT!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
She got HOT!
Electrical connection, that is.
Fuel Gauge terminal to Plug.
After I forced the plug from the terminals, I noticed this: The nut on the burnt terminal was loose.
My question is: Has anyone here seen this type of overheat failure on this gauge? I want to believe that it was just the looseness of the connection that heated it up and nothing else wrong in the circuit. The gauge had always worked up until I shut the car down for rework. No fuse had ever blown.
Any input will be gladly accepted.
And I'll be looking for a new plug and terminal board too in the time being.
Steve
Fuel Gauge terminal to Plug.
After I forced the plug from the terminals, I noticed this: The nut on the burnt terminal was loose.
My question is: Has anyone here seen this type of overheat failure on this gauge? I want to believe that it was just the looseness of the connection that heated it up and nothing else wrong in the circuit. The gauge had always worked up until I shut the car down for rework. No fuse had ever blown.
Any input will be gladly accepted.
And I'll be looking for a new plug and terminal board too in the time being.
Steve
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,274
Likes: 4,366
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Steve,
I'd certainly think the loose nut on that terminal could have cause the 'heat' as you've surmised.
I'd like to think a new connector and tight nut will suffice, but the missing asbestos would make me a bit nervous… but all things electrical make me a bit nervous.
I'll be interested to hear some other folks thoughts!
Regards,
Alan
I'd certainly think the loose nut on that terminal could have cause the 'heat' as you've surmised.
I'd like to think a new connector and tight nut will suffice, but the missing asbestos would make me a bit nervous… but all things electrical make me a bit nervous.
I'll be interested to hear some other folks thoughts!
Regards,
Alan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1,559
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
An easy fix!
Your #1 wire brings 12 volts to the gauge so if the insulation under the stud shifted from the nut being loose and the stud touched the metal can, you found the problem.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Hi Steve,
I'd certainly think the loose nut on that terminal could have cause the 'heat' as you've surmised.
I'd like to think a new connector and tight nut will suffice, but the missing asbestos would make me a bit nervous… but all things electrical make me a bit nervous.
I'll be interested to hear some other folks thoughts!
Regards,
Alan
I'd certainly think the loose nut on that terminal could have cause the 'heat' as you've surmised.
I'd like to think a new connector and tight nut will suffice, but the missing asbestos would make me a bit nervous… but all things electrical make me a bit nervous.
I'll be interested to hear some other folks thoughts!
Regards,
Alan
As far as repair, I too wouldn't feel good returning this to service without removing and replacing the resistor. It's too much work to get in there. I'm considering fabricating an Insulator, and then installing an 85 ohm resistor purchased commercially, but believe crowding/clearance issues may develop using one of sufficient wattage.
The dang stud had a lock washer on it Alan! I guess someone wants me to stay busy.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
HA! The element is still intact! Shouldn't be too surprised, as it did still work.
I'm deciding on either making a new insulator or just removing this one and flip it 180 around.
Just melted material at the base of the hot stud.
And no signs of arcing/soot at it's entry hole.
I might get by with using some potting compound on the Resistor and heat shrink at the base of the Hot and Tank Input Studs to insure insulation from the case.
Look; If I go buy a new/used gauge, I'll save this one for who-knows-what, and this thing is gonna end up in the trash someday. I don't like doing that. The gauge's face, case, workings & needle are perfect. I'll be sure to ohm out the Hot stud to it's silver case, but I'm believing it's alright now.
Just me.
Steve
I'm deciding on either making a new insulator or just removing this one and flip it 180 around.
Just melted material at the base of the hot stud.
And no signs of arcing/soot at it's entry hole.
I might get by with using some potting compound on the Resistor and heat shrink at the base of the Hot and Tank Input Studs to insure insulation from the case.
Look; If I go buy a new/used gauge, I'll save this one for who-knows-what, and this thing is gonna end up in the trash someday. I don't like doing that. The gauge's face, case, workings & needle are perfect. I'll be sure to ohm out the Hot stud to it's silver case, but I'm believing it's alright now.
Just me.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1,559
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Yes, you and anyone else can use that picture or any other that I post.
The idea behind the forum is to help fellow enthusiasts figure out and fix whatever went wrong.
Thanks to you Alan for taking the time to post your pictures and give detailed instructions with them.
Pete.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,426
Likes: 1,559
From: mount holly NC
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
HA! The element is still intact! Shouldn't be too surprised, as it did still work.
I'm deciding on either making a new insulator or just removing this one and flip it 180 around.
Just melted material at the base of the hot stud.
And no signs of arcing/soot at it's entry hole.
I might get by with using some potting compound on the Resistor and heat shrink at the base of the Hot and Tank Input Studs to insure insulation from the case.
Look; If I go buy a new/used gauge, I'll save this one for who-knows-what, and this thing is gonna end up in the trash someday. I don't like doing that. The gauge's face, case, workings & needle are perfect. I'll be sure to ohm out the Hot stud to it's silver case, but I'm believing it's alright now.
Just me.
Steve
I'm deciding on either making a new insulator or just removing this one and flip it 180 around.
Just melted material at the base of the hot stud.
And no signs of arcing/soot at it's entry hole.
I might get by with using some potting compound on the Resistor and heat shrink at the base of the Hot and Tank Input Studs to insure insulation from the case.
Look; If I go buy a new/used gauge, I'll save this one for who-knows-what, and this thing is gonna end up in the trash someday. I don't like doing that. The gauge's face, case, workings & needle are perfect. I'll be sure to ohm out the Hot stud to it's silver case, but I'm believing it's alright now.
Just me.
Steve
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Bingo.. we have a winner.. I've seen this one before and when that stud hits the can your in for some fireworks. I've got the correct connector and a replacement resistor if you need it just let me know. The adjustable resistor I made for the temperature senders will work in place of the stock fuel resistor since the ohms reading is the same.. Or I have some original wire wound used resistors on my site but they are a bit on the pricey side. You'll need to insulate that brunt stud before re-installation if the gauge works.. plastic fusion might be an option or some sort of insulating washer. When tight, the stud pulls the white plastic looking area around the stud into the hole on the gauge canister. Since it's been smoked off there something needs to replace it.
You can test the gauge once you get a resistor in place by applying power and ground to the back only.. the gauge should go to full, then ground out the ohms stud to ground and the gauge should go to empty.
Connector
https://willcoxcorvette.com/catalogs...c_part_year=21
Resistor
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...tor-used-68-76
adjustable resistor
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...resistor-68-76
I have the insulator... it's not on the site but I have one.
Email me at support@Willcoxcorvette.com and I'll get you a decent price on all of it.
Ernie
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; May 16, 2016 at 10:49 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Bingo.. we have a winner.. I've seen this one before and when that stud hits the can your in for some fireworks. I've got the correct connector and a replacement resistor if you need it just let me know. The adjustable resistor I made for the temperature senders will work in place of the stock fuel resistor since the ohms reading is the same.. Or I have some original wire wound used resistors on my site but they are a bit on the pricey side. You'll need to insulate that brunt stud before re-installation if the gauge works.. plastic fusion might be an option or some sort of insulating washer. When tight, the stud pulls the white plastic looking area around the stud into the hole on the gauge canister. Since it's been smoked off there something needs to replace it.
You can test the gauge once you get a resistor in place by applying power and ground to the back only.. the gauge should go to full, then ground out the ohms stud to ground and the gauge should go to empty.
Connector
https://willcoxcorvette.com/catalogs...c_part_year=21
Resistor
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...tor-used-68-76
adjustable resistor
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...resistor-68-76
I have the insulator... it's not on the site but I have one.
Email me at support@Willcoxcorvette.com and I'll get you a decent price on all of it.
Ernie
I ohmed out the Stud-to-Case: Infinite!
I took a sliver of Heat Shrink tubing (on the right) and applied it to the Stud's base just for a little insurance against grounding on the mounting plate. Will carefully clean up the Stud, use a bit of dielectric grease on assembly, and then make damn sure I torque the nuts properly.
I can't believe that wire/plug wasn't protected by a fuse. I've a mind to splice an in-line one on that 12 volt input. And where it's easy to access too. Of course THEN, with the tight connections, my chances of needing it would be nill.
Steve
Last edited by Cavu2u; May 17, 2016 at 07:13 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Drilled the voltage Stud holes out just an RCH larger to ensure clearance with the heat shrink and full gauge base-to-plate contact.
Clinched down the Ground Stud first so as to position the voltage Studs clear in their Stud holes.
Very carefully mounted everything up and went to test per:
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...it-testing.pdf
All is well so far. Once potting compound is applied to help absorb shock and hold things together, another test will be run and hopefully it will pass. Only then would I put the assembly in the car.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I'm not so comfortable with the reuse of that resistor "as is". The insulator strip that the resistance wire is wrapped around not only keeps any heating of that resistor wire from causing any problem, but it also is a structural element that keeps that wire separated as it is wound around it. The damaged insulator bar in your resistor is not going to keep that resistance wire restrained, IMO. I think you could just unwrap that resistance wire and come up with a way to rebuild that insulator...then re-wrap the wire and epoxy the end piece on to the rebuilt insulator.
OR, maybe Willcox can sell you just a replacement resistor.
OR, maybe Willcox can sell you just a replacement resistor.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
I'm not so comfortable with the reuse of that resistor "as is". The insulator strip that the resistance wire is wrapped around not only keeps any heating of that resistor wire from causing any problem, but it also is a structural element that keeps that wire separated as it is wound around it. The damaged insulator bar in your resistor is not going to keep that resistance wire restrained, IMO. I think you could just unwrap that resistance wire and come up with a way to rebuild that insulator...then re-wrap the wire and epoxy the end piece on to the rebuilt insulator.
OR, maybe Willcox can sell you just a replacement resistor.
OR, maybe Willcox can sell you just a replacement resistor.
Non-standard, but secure, insulated, and out of sight.
Steve
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I'm not so comfortable with the reuse of that resistor "as is". The insulator strip that the resistance wire is wrapped around not only keeps any heating of that resistor wire from causing any problem, but it also is a structural element that keeps that wire separated as it is wound around it. The damaged insulator bar in your resistor is not going to keep that resistance wire restrained, IMO. I think you could just unwrap that resistance wire and come up with a way to rebuild that insulator...then re-wrap the wire and epoxy the end piece on to the rebuilt insulator.
OR, maybe Willcox can sell you just a replacement resistor.
OR, maybe Willcox can sell you just a replacement resistor.
I missed that you were re-using that resistor.. that's not going to be a positive thing.... Steve-
Email me an address... Support@Willcoxcorvette.com... Last week I had a customer send in a 66 Chevelle temperature gauge to have one of the adjustable resistors installed in it. (it was a test mule and we didn't know if/how well it would work).
It worked perfect and I got to keep the old resistor. It's yours.. just send me the address and I'll have Tony ship it to you tomorrow. I'll be in SD in sept... might have to call in a favor.. lol
Ernie
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; May 17, 2016 at 09:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
I missed that you were re-using that resistor.. that's not going to be a positive thing.... Steve-
Email me an address... Support@Willcoxcorvette.com... Last week I had a customer send in a 66 Chevelle temperature gauge to have one of the adjustable resistors installed in it. (it was a test mule and we didn't know if/how well it would work).
It worked perfect and I got to keep the old resistor. It's yours.. just send me the address and I'll have Tony ship it to you tomorrow. I'll be in SD in sept... might have to call in a favor.. lol
Ernie
This is most gracious of you. Thank you so much.
I just put in an order to you at Willcox (Order #100003802). If you can smuggle it into the box with the order, it can be painless for you and most beneficial to me.
Thanks again sir.
Steve
P.S.: And yeah, let me know when you hit town!
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Don't put those terminals on there either... a new connector dropped in the box with the resistor. 
Just un-pin the old one and then snap in the new connector.
Just un-pin the old one and then snap in the new connector.