what would you do SBC
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
First off have it hot tanked or heat oven cleaned.
Second have it pressure tested or magnafluxed for cracks.
Third have it sonic checked for cyl wall thickness and core shift.
If all that checks out good - Start by Deburring the oil returns and any casting flash in the valley. Break the sharp edges at the bottom of the cyls and on top of the main saddles.
True the deck surfaces.
Bore and hone with a plate.
Line hone... Main studs are not really necessary unless you need a windage tray or something. The weakest link in the bottom of that block is the cap itself... the cap itself will crack before the stock bolts let go.... that said the cyl will probably split or egg shape before the cap lets go if the rotating assy is light.
Those blocks are good to 600HP in an endurance application and we build them to that power all the time in limited class dirt oval cars. That and street cars are about the only thing I will still use a factory GM 350 block in..... The cyls will last about 2 seasons before they egg shape bad enough that the leak down goes to ****.... less if you run big rings.
It'll also be good to less power if you have a longer stroke or heavy rotating assembly.... those 2 things just put more load on the main caps and cyl walls.
You can make a lot of power for a short time in a drag racing type application but it won't last. Even poured and studded the cyls will eventually let go or the cap itself will crack. We did it all the time back in the 70's-80's when we really didn't have anything any better but today it's just not worth the time and money to put that kind of work into a stock block beyond a 600hp build.
Will
Second have it pressure tested or magnafluxed for cracks.
Third have it sonic checked for cyl wall thickness and core shift.
If all that checks out good - Start by Deburring the oil returns and any casting flash in the valley. Break the sharp edges at the bottom of the cyls and on top of the main saddles.
True the deck surfaces.
Bore and hone with a plate.
Line hone... Main studs are not really necessary unless you need a windage tray or something. The weakest link in the bottom of that block is the cap itself... the cap itself will crack before the stock bolts let go.... that said the cyl will probably split or egg shape before the cap lets go if the rotating assy is light.
Those blocks are good to 600HP in an endurance application and we build them to that power all the time in limited class dirt oval cars. That and street cars are about the only thing I will still use a factory GM 350 block in..... The cyls will last about 2 seasons before they egg shape bad enough that the leak down goes to ****.... less if you run big rings.
It'll also be good to less power if you have a longer stroke or heavy rotating assembly.... those 2 things just put more load on the main caps and cyl walls.
You can make a lot of power for a short time in a drag racing type application but it won't last. Even poured and studded the cyls will eventually let go or the cap itself will crack. We did it all the time back in the 70's-80's when we really didn't have anything any better but today it's just not worth the time and money to put that kind of work into a stock block beyond a 600hp build.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; May 31, 2016 at 07:11 PM.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
First off have it hot tanked or heat oven cleaned.
Second have it pressure tested or magnafluxed for cracks.
Third have it sonic checked for cyl wall thickness and core shift.
If all that checks out good - Start by Deburring the oil returns and any casting flash in the valley. Break the sharp edges at the bottom of the cyls and on top of the main saddles.
True the deck surfaces.
Bore and hone with a plate.
Line hone... Main studs are not really necessary unless you need a windage tray or something. The weakest link in the bottom of that block is the cap itself... the cap itself will crack before the stock bolts let go.... that said the cyl will probably split or egg shape before the cap lets go if the rotating assy is light.
Those blocks are good to 600HP in an endurance application and we build them to that power all the time in limited class dirt oval cars. That and street cars are about the only thing I will still use a factory GM 350 block in..... The cyls will last about 2 seasons before they egg shape bad enough that the leak down goes to ****.... less if you run big rings.
It'll also be good to less power if you have a longer stroke or heavy rotating assembly.... those 2 things just put more load on the main caps and cyl walls.
You can make a lot of power for a short time in a drag racing type application but it won't last. Even poured and studded the cyls will eventually let go or the cap itself will crack. We did it all the time back in the 70's-80's when we really didn't have anything any better but today it's just not worth the time and money to put that kind of work into a stock block beyond a 600hp build.
Will
Second have it pressure tested or magnafluxed for cracks.
Third have it sonic checked for cyl wall thickness and core shift.
If all that checks out good - Start by Deburring the oil returns and any casting flash in the valley. Break the sharp edges at the bottom of the cyls and on top of the main saddles.
True the deck surfaces.
Bore and hone with a plate.
Line hone... Main studs are not really necessary unless you need a windage tray or something. The weakest link in the bottom of that block is the cap itself... the cap itself will crack before the stock bolts let go.... that said the cyl will probably split or egg shape before the cap lets go if the rotating assy is light.
Those blocks are good to 600HP in an endurance application and we build them to that power all the time in limited class dirt oval cars. That and street cars are about the only thing I will still use a factory GM 350 block in..... The cyls will last about 2 seasons before they egg shape bad enough that the leak down goes to ****.... less if you run big rings.
It'll also be good to less power if you have a longer stroke or heavy rotating assembly.... those 2 things just put more load on the main caps and cyl walls.
You can make a lot of power for a short time in a drag racing type application but it won't last. Even poured and studded the cyls will eventually let go or the cap itself will crack. We did it all the time back in the 70's-80's when we really didn't have anything any better but today it's just not worth the time and money to put that kind of work into a stock block beyond a 600hp build.
Will
I would like to add that applications that see sustained 7000 rpm with a "stock" or even a Bowtie block need the main oil passage drilled and the cam tunnel bores drilled out for volume.......the stock style oiling system oils the cam first.....so you can see where it could be a problem with lower end oiling if the volume is low......
We learned this the hard way back in the 90's.......
It is surely not worth it now as even the lower end aftermarket blocks have priority main oiling.......Dart's SHP block is a gem for the money.....better than any GM block save for the CNC Bowtie Splay and the Rocket block.......both of which are very costly.
Jebby
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
First off have it hot tanked or heat oven cleaned.
Second have it pressure tested or magnafluxed for cracks.
Third have it sonic checked for cyl wall thickness and core shift.
If all that checks out good - Start by Deburring the oil returns and any casting flash in the valley. Break the sharp edges at the bottom of the cyls and on top of the main saddles.
True the deck surfaces.
Bore and hone with a plate.
Line hone... Main studs are not really necessary unless you need a windage tray or something. The weakest link in the bottom of that block is the cap itself... the cap itself will crack before the stock bolts let go.... that said the cyl will probably split or egg shape before the cap lets go if the rotating assy is light.
Those blocks are good to 600HP in an endurance application and we build them to that power all the time in limited class dirt oval cars. That and street cars are about the only thing I will still use a factory GM 350 block in..... The cyls will last about 2 seasons before they egg shape bad enough that the leak down goes to ****.... less if you run big rings.
It'll also be good to less power if you have a longer stroke or heavy rotating assembly.... those 2 things just put more load on the main caps and cyl walls.
You can make a lot of power for a short time in a drag racing type application but it won't last. Even poured and studded the cyls will eventually let go or the cap itself will crack. We did it all the time back in the 70's-80's when we really didn't have anything any better but today it's just not worth the time and money to put that kind of work into a stock block beyond a 600hp build.
Will
Second have it pressure tested or magnafluxed for cracks.
Third have it sonic checked for cyl wall thickness and core shift.
If all that checks out good - Start by Deburring the oil returns and any casting flash in the valley. Break the sharp edges at the bottom of the cyls and on top of the main saddles.
True the deck surfaces.
Bore and hone with a plate.
Line hone... Main studs are not really necessary unless you need a windage tray or something. The weakest link in the bottom of that block is the cap itself... the cap itself will crack before the stock bolts let go.... that said the cyl will probably split or egg shape before the cap lets go if the rotating assy is light.
Those blocks are good to 600HP in an endurance application and we build them to that power all the time in limited class dirt oval cars. That and street cars are about the only thing I will still use a factory GM 350 block in..... The cyls will last about 2 seasons before they egg shape bad enough that the leak down goes to ****.... less if you run big rings.
It'll also be good to less power if you have a longer stroke or heavy rotating assembly.... those 2 things just put more load on the main caps and cyl walls.
You can make a lot of power for a short time in a drag racing type application but it won't last. Even poured and studded the cyls will eventually let go or the cap itself will crack. We did it all the time back in the 70's-80's when we really didn't have anything any better but today it's just not worth the time and money to put that kind of work into a stock block beyond a 600hp build.
Will
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
I would like to add that applications that see sustained 7000 rpm with a "stock" or even a Bowtie block need the main oil passage drilled and the cam tunnel bores drilled out for volume.......the stock style oiling system oils the cam first.....so you can see where it could be a problem with lower end oiling if the volume is low......
We learned this the hard way back in the 90's.......
It is surely not worth it now as even the lower end aftermarket blocks have priority main oiling.......Dart's SHP block is a gem for the money.....better than any GM block save for the CNC Bowtie Splay and the Rocket block.......both of which are very costly.
Jebby
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
You should be able to hone it and go at 4.125 bore......
Jebby
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,943
Likes: 850
From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I'm glad the oiling mods were mentioned that's an excellent mod on a stock block.we used to get the lifter bores straight and even resizing to use the chrysler lifter.it was worth some power and durability. I may build a solid lifter motor with the bigger lifter bores.they are lighter and require less spring preasure.and they don't seem to wipe as easily as the standard size.and you don't have the splash oiling issue either.
That's real old school and some might say it's nuts but it always worked in the past..
Some good s uggestio s here.
That's real old school and some might say it's nuts but it always worked in the past..
Some good s uggestio s here.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
First off have it hot tanked or heat oven cleaned.
Second have it pressure tested or magnafluxed for cracks.
Third have it sonic checked for cyl wall thickness and core shift.
If all that checks out good - Start by Deburring the oil returns and any casting flash in the valley. Break the sharp edges at the bottom of the cyls and on top of the main saddles.
True the deck surfaces.
Bore and hone with a plate.
Line hone... Main studs are not really necessary unless you need a windage tray or something. The weakest link in the bottom of that block is the cap itself... the cap itself will crack before the stock bolts let go.... that said the cyl will probably split or egg shape before the cap lets go if the rotating assy is light.
Those blocks are good to 600HP in an endurance application and we build them to that power all the time in limited class dirt oval cars. That and street cars are about the only thing I will still use a factory GM 350 block in..... The cyls will last about 2 seasons before they egg shape bad enough that the leak down goes to ****.... less if you run big rings.
It'll also be good to less power if you have a longer stroke or heavy rotating assembly.... those 2 things just put more load on the main caps and cyl walls.
You can make a lot of power for a short time in a drag racing type application but it won't last. Even poured and studded the cyls will eventually let go or the cap itself will crack. We did it all the time back in the 70's-80's when we really didn't have anything any better but today it's just not worth the time and money to put that kind of work into a stock block beyond a 600hp build.
Will
Second have it pressure tested or magnafluxed for cracks.
Third have it sonic checked for cyl wall thickness and core shift.
If all that checks out good - Start by Deburring the oil returns and any casting flash in the valley. Break the sharp edges at the bottom of the cyls and on top of the main saddles.
True the deck surfaces.
Bore and hone with a plate.
Line hone... Main studs are not really necessary unless you need a windage tray or something. The weakest link in the bottom of that block is the cap itself... the cap itself will crack before the stock bolts let go.... that said the cyl will probably split or egg shape before the cap lets go if the rotating assy is light.
Those blocks are good to 600HP in an endurance application and we build them to that power all the time in limited class dirt oval cars. That and street cars are about the only thing I will still use a factory GM 350 block in..... The cyls will last about 2 seasons before they egg shape bad enough that the leak down goes to ****.... less if you run big rings.
It'll also be good to less power if you have a longer stroke or heavy rotating assembly.... those 2 things just put more load on the main caps and cyl walls.
You can make a lot of power for a short time in a drag racing type application but it won't last. Even poured and studded the cyls will eventually let go or the cap itself will crack. We did it all the time back in the 70's-80's when we really didn't have anything any better but today it's just not worth the time and money to put that kind of work into a stock block beyond a 600hp build.
Will