Considering stroking it (L-48)
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hartford County Connecticut
I think I'm right there with you on the "build a stroker and drive" plan. I would hate to not be able to drive the vette while working on it- it would make me impatient, and that is never a good thing. Not to mention I could save the original engine (the car was originally my late Father's- sentimentality isn't always practical).
To that end, can anyone speak to what I'm "looking for" in an engine block? Being new to car mechanics, I don't see anything that seems to tell whether or not it will "drop in". I'm looking for "drop in"- less hassle and money.
I'm having a lot of fun planning this project guys, and your input is absolutely what I'm looking for.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 68
Likes: 11
From: South Daytona Florida
421 Stroker
Thanks for your input! I was literally just researching some options when I saw your post. I noticed "400" blocks in the Gen 1 SMC category. What does this mean in terms of adaptations in the engine bay? I assume that would be heavier, as well?
I think I'm right there with you on the "build a stroker and drive" plan. I would hate to not be able to drive the vette while working on it- it would make me impatient, and that is never a good thing. Not to mention I could save the original engine (the car was originally my late Father's- sentimentality isn't always practical).
To that end, can anyone speak to what I'm "looking for" in an engine block? Being new to car mechanics, I don't see anything that seems to tell whether or not it will "drop in". I'm looking for "drop in"- less hassle and money.
I'm having a lot of fun planning this project guys, and your input is absolutely what I'm looking for.
I think I'm right there with you on the "build a stroker and drive" plan. I would hate to not be able to drive the vette while working on it- it would make me impatient, and that is never a good thing. Not to mention I could save the original engine (the car was originally my late Father's- sentimentality isn't always practical).
To that end, can anyone speak to what I'm "looking for" in an engine block? Being new to car mechanics, I don't see anything that seems to tell whether or not it will "drop in". I'm looking for "drop in"- less hassle and money.
I'm having a lot of fun planning this project guys, and your input is absolutely what I'm looking for.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
curious on that aircleaner deal what brand? How big diameter are the tubes? Think its restrictive at all?
Been lookiing at different idears for a temp cold air solution til I can come up with something stellar. Non vette so I wont elaborate but have the hold for WW motor open like yours.
Been lookiing at different idears for a temp cold air solution til I can come up with something stellar. Non vette so I wont elaborate but have the hold for WW motor open like yours.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 68
Likes: 11
From: South Daytona Florida
Air Cleaner
curious on that aircleaner deal what brand? How big diameter are the tubes? Think its restrictive at all?
Been lookiing at different idears for a temp cold air solution til I can come up with something stellar. Non vette so I wont elaborate but have the hold for WW motor open like yours.
Been lookiing at different idears for a temp cold air solution til I can come up with something stellar. Non vette so I wont elaborate but have the hold for WW motor open like yours.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hartford County Connecticut
Secondly, I'm looking at 400 blocks online now. This is what I've found:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dr...make/chevrolet
about $1700.
They are way more expensive than just doing a 350->383 conversion.
This is pretty much what I'm looking at, yes?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Those Dart blocks are real nice and strong the little M even better!
If you wanted a 421 thats bulletproof thats the way to go
Internally balance it not many could tell what it was
Know a motor that size you almost cant use too much head/intake no need to use "small" parts to help with low end tq. Youll love it, BBC power and tq in a sbc package.
initial sticker shock yes but worth it long run
By the time you take a GM 400 block clean mag and machine it "right" youre not that far off from the cost of one that will hold up to whatever you throw at it.
Think Dart among others even sells assembled shortblocks if thats your thing, can build to suit
383 wont even compare, youll look back at the 350 and say what was that a starter motor? LOL seriously its THAT big a difference.
If you wanted a 421 thats bulletproof thats the way to go
Internally balance it not many could tell what it was
Know a motor that size you almost cant use too much head/intake no need to use "small" parts to help with low end tq. Youll love it, BBC power and tq in a sbc package.
initial sticker shock yes but worth it long run
By the time you take a GM 400 block clean mag and machine it "right" youre not that far off from the cost of one that will hold up to whatever you throw at it.
Think Dart among others even sells assembled shortblocks if thats your thing, can build to suit
383 wont even compare, youll look back at the 350 and say what was that a starter motor? LOL seriously its THAT big a difference.
Last edited by cv67; Jun 7, 2016 at 02:17 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 68
Likes: 11
From: South Daytona Florida
Stroker
First off, holy mother of metal. I'm not sure I can even tell whats going on in that picture, except that looks like one dynamite asphalt destroyer.
Secondly, I'm looking at 400 blocks online now. This is what I've found:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dr...make/chevrolet
about $1700.
They are way more expensive than just doing a 350->383 conversion.
This is pretty much what I'm looking at, yes?
Secondly, I'm looking at 400 blocks online now. This is what I've found:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dr...make/chevrolet
about $1700.
They are way more expensive than just doing a 350->383 conversion.
This is pretty much what I'm looking at, yes?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Cost on stroker kits has really gotten affordable over the yrs would hav e ahard time using a 400 block and not stroking it
Just the slightest crack of the throttle and youre moving
Go back and forth about a BB or just abigger SB
No need for steep gears, shaft rockers etc. RPM costs money and dont last as long. If i had half a brain would have done a mild 4xx and tossed a B&m/holley street blower, HR cam and been able to DD it....cross country if needed. Now have to buy a hauler just to go 2 hrs to the track not keen on burning u psolid roller valvetrain for fwy commutes.
Man I need to quit eating over this keyboard
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hartford County Connecticut
Well I've finally begun the used engine hunt. I'm going to see what I can find and go from there. Man that 421 sounds delicious. I have the 4 speed close muncie in there now- I'm fairly certain people have used those in high horsepower cars (chevelles, etc).
You guys have any clue what "minor burn" or "burn" means for a used engine? Google keeps trying to give me first aid.
You guys have any clue what "minor burn" or "burn" means for a used engine? Google keeps trying to give me first aid.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
Well I've finally begun the used engine hunt. I'm going to see what I can find and go from there. Man that 421 sounds delicious. I have the 4 speed close muncie in there now- I'm fairly certain people have used those in high horsepower cars (chevelles, etc).
You guys have any clue what "minor burn" or "burn" means for a used engine? Google keeps trying to give me first aid.
You guys have any clue what "minor burn" or "burn" means for a used engine? Google keeps trying to give me first aid.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hartford County Connecticut
Dearest Vette Owners:
Anyone have an engine stand they could recommend? looking for something inexpensive and functional.
I found a (supposedly) operational (1978) 350 cubic inch for $300 bucks, plus some additional parts. Gotta have something to mount it on.
Thanks,
Dan
Anyone have an engine stand they could recommend? looking for something inexpensive and functional.
I found a (supposedly) operational (1978) 350 cubic inch for $300 bucks, plus some additional parts. Gotta have something to mount it on.
Thanks,
Dan
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,736
Likes: 56
From: anchorage ak
Dearest Vette Owners:
Anyone have an engine stand they could recommend? looking for something inexpensive and functional.
I found a (supposedly) operational (1978) 350 cubic inch for $300 bucks, plus some additional parts. Gotta have something to mount it on.
Thanks,
Dan
Anyone have an engine stand they could recommend? looking for something inexpensive and functional.
I found a (supposedly) operational (1978) 350 cubic inch for $300 bucks, plus some additional parts. Gotta have something to mount it on.
Thanks,
Dan
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 109
From: Las Vegas NV
I use the 750lb stand from Harbor Freight that costs $48 w/o a coupon:
I wouldn't recommend it. Go at least with the 1000lb stand:
The 1000lb stand costs $60 w/o a coupon, but that bar across the front should really help with the stability.
I wouldn't recommend it. Go at least with the 1000lb stand:
The 1000lb stand costs $60 w/o a coupon, but that bar across the front should really help with the stability.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,524
Likes: 61
From: Medina Ohio
Dearest Vette Owners:
Anyone have an engine stand they could recommend? looking for something inexpensive and functional.
I found a (supposedly) operational (1978) 350 cubic inch for $300 bucks, plus some additional parts. Gotta have something to mount it on.
Thanks,
Dan
Anyone have an engine stand they could recommend? looking for something inexpensive and functional.
I found a (supposedly) operational (1978) 350 cubic inch for $300 bucks, plus some additional parts. Gotta have something to mount it on.
Thanks,
Dan
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Hartford County Connecticut
Okay, I have the 1978 350 w/ 4 bolt mains and I'm in the process of taking it apart. No one warned me how much fun getting dirty and taking these things apart can be! (seriously!) From what I have seen so far, it's in pretty good shape (minor bore rust being the worst problem).
Anyway, I'm still looking at buying a rotating assembly. At this point the one thing I would like to avoid is clearancing the block (if possible at all). Obviously the only way to do that would be to invest in rods that have additional clearance (such as these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet).
Has anyone ever found the "magic bullet" for reducing the amount of clearancing required, or better yet- not requiring grinding at all? I would obviously never just "trust" something to work out and check clearances anyways, but it would be nice if it worked straight away.
Thanks,
Dan
Anyway, I'm still looking at buying a rotating assembly. At this point the one thing I would like to avoid is clearancing the block (if possible at all). Obviously the only way to do that would be to invest in rods that have additional clearance (such as these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet).
Has anyone ever found the "magic bullet" for reducing the amount of clearancing required, or better yet- not requiring grinding at all? I would obviously never just "trust" something to work out and check clearances anyways, but it would be nice if it worked straight away.
Thanks,
Dan
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,524
Likes: 61
From: Medina Ohio
Dan,
I'd go with the SCAT I beams. H beams are overkill, and although debatable, I beams are actually a stronger design.
Depending on the details, the Scat Pro Comp I beams with the 7/16 ARP rod bolts are nice pieces for the money. (I'm running this rod with a bolt upgrade in my supercharged 383 build) The Scat Pro Stock with ARP 3/8 bolts are a bit cheaper and still a nice upgrade over stock.
Check out Skip White on Ebay, he's had them both for the cheapest I've been able to find.
I'd go with the SCAT I beams. H beams are overkill, and although debatable, I beams are actually a stronger design.
Depending on the details, the Scat Pro Comp I beams with the 7/16 ARP rod bolts are nice pieces for the money. (I'm running this rod with a bolt upgrade in my supercharged 383 build) The Scat Pro Stock with ARP 3/8 bolts are a bit cheaper and still a nice upgrade over stock.
Check out Skip White on Ebay, he's had them both for the cheapest I've been able to find.
Last edited by Ibanez540r; Jun 27, 2016 at 09:59 PM.
