My 82 Collectors Edition will not stay running after the cars warms up, I have replaced cooling sensor, map sensor, distributer cap, rotor button. It starts and idles great but after running for 15 to 20 minutes it floods itself out and dies, no fuel pump problem there. It literally dumps fuel into throttle body and kills the motor. I'm thinking maybe it the computer now. Also cannot find where to plug scanner to read error codes it says drivers side under steering wheel but also on monitor it says the exception to this location would be the special edition corvettes which I assume would be the Collectors Edition car. Any ideas on what's going on here, all original motor..

 

Open the flap on the console exposing the lighter and ash tray. The computer connection is under the ash tray.

 

I also have an '82...

When you say "dumping" have you actually watched the EFI dump extra fuel? What happens to your idle rpms- any fluctuation prior?

Will it run if you keep the rpms up or does it die at idle only?

Slight hi jack---Is there a special scanner that fit our cars? I have n OBDII readers that I use on my newer cars, but he '82 has a different plug fitting?

 

It dumps it out until white smoke goes out exhaust then car dies it will happen during idling in park or red light, I've watch the injectors put a fine mist out at idle then when I see white exhaust smoke and look at injection it's pouring it in.

 

Then engine idle at 700rpms then it starts idling rough during the dumping then floods out and dies.

 

did you replace the cooling sensor in the front of the motor.that one is for the ecu.

 

Gary, are both injectors dumping it out, or just one of them?

It sounds as if it's time to look at the injector(s). Injectors spray a fuel mist under pressure normally as they are electronically opened and closed. If an injector is dumping fuel, it is either staying open or fuel pressure has dropped, or both. With lower fuel pressure, instead of spraying fuel, it will come out as liquid or droplets. If you're able to read fuel pressure at this point you'll probably see it drop from it's normal pressure.

If both injectors are starting to "dump" fuel at the same time, it can be that the pump is failing and can't keep the pressure up to mist the fuel.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

Yes as stated

 

Garyj1965-

A video would help as we all have a different idea of what "fuel dumping" looks like. A dump to you can be a drip to another.

Also, if you are replacing your fuel pump (a good idea on an '82) consider going with a 85-89 Vette pump. It bolts on easy and is significantly more pressure than a factory '82.

 

Why would it do this after engine is running for 15 to 20 minutes it seems once motor gets warmed up it starts dumping

 

The injectors are electronic solenoids. As they age they can lose their ability to operate as intended. This can be the result of getting too hot or even internal corrosion. The same essentially for the fuel pump. The fuel pump can suffer from internal corrosion and is actually cooled by the fuel in the tank. (A good reason not to allow an in-tank fuel pump run very long with no fuel in the tank.)

At this point determining if both injectors start dumping fuel at the same time or only one is important. Attaching a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and watching what happens to the pressure as the injector(s) start to "dump" fuel will also reveal a lot.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

I don't know what you would use, OBDII is '96 & up, prior was OBDI and those are hard to find, but back in '82 I think it was computer command control (CCC), the Tech 1 didn't even come out to dealers until '85...you'll need something that reads the old binary UART system, otherwise you'll just have to blink the codes, if there are any.

I have an old TIF 1600 unit, not sure if I have the optical punch cards for that year, and the modules. it only has a printer, no read out but worked last time I used it (but it's been 25 years). I'll let you know if I do and if you are close you can borrow it (location?). or you can find them on ebay occasionally but you need all the software cards and stuff to make it work...

 

Put the new computer on and once again after 20 minutes of idling smooth the car died, what we did notice this time was that with ignition key on the injectors continues to spray fuel what could be causing this, maybe a short somewhere?

 

Gary, not sure I understand what you're saying. After the engine quits running, key still on, the injectors (both of them?) continue to spray... is that correct? Are you able to see both injectors spraying while the engine is running? Is it spraying a mist of fuel or "dumping" liquid fuel into the intake at that point?

On most fuel injected engines, when the engine quits, and oil pressure drops below a minimum point, the fuel pump cuts off which should stop the injectors from spraying fuel. It may take a few seconds for this to occur however.

GUSTO

 

Yes you can turn key off and then to the on position (motor not running) but the injectors (both) continue to spray a must of gas with the clicking noise from injectors.

 

coolant sensor will tell it to go rich.check sensor again.check wiring.did you put in the new sensor with the new wireing harness .reverse the wires.have you replaced o2 sensor?http://www.winaldl.joby.se/

 

Gary, I'm gonna say that it shouldn't be doing that. The computer on initial start up will turn the pump on to pressurize the fuel system. In the start position it will also begin to activate the injectors. Once the engine is running, it will start looking for oil pressure to keep the pump running. If it loses oil pressure, I believe this will shut down the fuel pump. If you shut off the engine, it should shut off the fuel pump as well.

Turning the key to the on position at that point should not start the injectors operating until you go to the start position. Even though there may still be residual pressure in the fuel rail, the injectors should not be operating. (They could however be stuck open at this point and residual pressure would possibly result in them spraying, at least for a few seconds. If they are cycling however, they are not stuck open.) It would seem that something is causing the injectors to operate prematurely if they start spraying before you go to the start position. At that point, I'm unsure of what to look for next.

I'm not as familiar with the '82 fuel injection system as I am the tuned port. In my '85 the shop manual tells you how to manually pull the codes on its OBD I system. Don't know about the '82 system. If you have access to a shop manual for the '82, it should provide some additional guidance.

You might try sending a PM to DUB He tends to hang out in the C1-C2 Forum, but runs a shop in Charlotte and may have some insight on where to go from here. He's a great asset and always more than willing to assist when you ask him a question.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

Back before I got a scan tool, I could just jumper the A and B connectors on the diagnostic link. This would flash a 1 and 3, code 13, 3 times, then the next flashes would be the codes, a pair of numbers 3 times. This may help, http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm...codes-free.php .

 

Run a self test before you do anything. This is never the second step, always the first to avoid wasted philosophical theory. It is not perfect - a vacuum leak will not show up with a code - but, it is always your first stop. If you did not know the location of the self-test pins under the ash tray, be sure to do a Google search, or better, read the excellent '82 sticky on this forum to save yourself time and money.

 

When the car dies its making white smoke ? I would think that if it was running rich with an injector dumping fuel it would be making black smoke. I'd figure out what the Codes are as stated above and go from there.