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Just to make sure - your 35 degree total advance setting is with the vacuum advance disconnected, right?
Otherwise, like everyone else is saying, from 3500 rpm and up is where you'll feel the power. I rev mine to 5,800 with stock rods and a cast crank so you shouldn't have any problems there. (259 runs so far)
It will probably feel a little lazy below 3500RPM. I spent a lot of money on my 427ci and took it to a chassis dyno a week after I put it together and spun it up to 7000RPM.
You are not even spinning it up enough to seat the rings. Take it out and rev it up to at least 5000RPM and report back your feelings.
From the parts list it is not going to be a screaming small block but tuned properly it could be enough to keep you happy
Just as a matter of interest, why is this not a screaming small block?? Is it the mild cam, the 180cc heads, what?
Just to make sure - your 35 degree total advance setting is with the vacuum advance disconnected, right?
Otherwise, like everyone else is saying, from 3500 rpm and up is where you'll feel the power. I rev mine to 5,800 with stock rods and a cast crank so you shouldn't have any problems there. (259 runs so far)
BK, thanks for weighing in, whether you know it or not, several years ago when I was planning this engine build, I had some back and forth with you on it. Yes, that is with vacuum advance disconnected. By the way, with engine idling, when I plug the vacuum advance back in, the RPM increases.....is that correct at idle?
BK, thanks for weighing in, whether you know it or not, several years ago when I was planning this engine build, I had some back and forth with you on it. Yes, that is with vacuum advance disconnected. By the way, with engine idling, when I plug the vacuum advance back in, the RPM increases.....is that correct at idle?
Check out Back Street Performance in Medina, OH. They are who I go to for all my customers LS tuning and they run the mobile dyno for the race events at Mid-Ohio. Very knowledgeable group of guys and do great tuning.
Was not aware of them
There is also Big 3 Racing in Hinckley / Brunswick. They have a Mustang Chassis Dyno.
Sounds like a nice 355 build. I would spin it to 5,500 to 6,000 rpm a few times and see what the power band is like.
To get that torque feel under 3500 rpm with a 350ish size small block - 4.10 gears makes for a lot of fun. I would want to have swap to six speed T56 with 4.10's if doing a lot of highway driving.
sounds like your build is pretty close to mine. I made pretty decent power and torque on the dyno. The only real difference is the compression mine is actually 11:1. mine liked the timing set at 35*@2500 rpm. I do have a MSD distributor with a light set of springs installed. You need to make sure that you have a lot of air flow in and out. A paper filter was killing mine until I swapped to a high flow K&N.
my carb is a 750 AVS with a set of Hooker side pipes. The stock rams horns really chocked it but I tried them while waiting for the Hookers.
sounds like your build is pretty close to mine. I made pretty decent power and torque on the dyno. The only real difference is the compression mine is actually 11:1. mine liked the timing set at 35*@2500 rpm. I do have a MSD distributor with a light set of springs installed. You need to make sure that you have a lot of air flow in and out. A paper filter was killing mine until I swapped to a high flow K&N.
my carb is a 750 AVS with a set of Hooker side pipes. The stock rams horns really chocked it but I tried them while waiting for the Hookers.
Good luck
Thanks. I do have a K&N air filter on 14 inch open type. My Performance Distributors HEI was custom set up by DUI for the engine with light springs. Its all in around 2700. The Stainless Works long tube headers and 2-1/2 inch mandrel stainless exhaust are really open, and the mufflers are low restriction. It think I have the airflow as good as it can be.
sounds like your build is pretty close to mine. I made pretty decent power and torque on the dyno. The only real difference is the compression mine is actually 11:1. mine liked the timing set at 35*@2500 rpm. I do have a MSD distributor with a light set of springs installed. You need to make sure that you have a lot of air flow in and out. A paper filter was killing mine until I swapped to a high flow K&N. my carb is a 750 AVS with a set of Hooker side pipes. The stock rams horns really chocked it but I tried them while waiting for the Hookers.
Good luck
interesting,
there was a thread on here bashing the KN oil gauze type filters saying that a factory stock paper filter flowed better and trapped more dirt,
But you are reporting the opposite...which I do believe you but still I wonder why so much on the net that says KN are not all that great?
spinning through a TH350 I made 313 on the rear and 330 torque. Nice usable torque pretty flat band. We had just begun on the 7th pull to lean the carb out a bit when I had a lifter problem found out a tie bar broke and took out the cam. Morel stood behind everything but my labor so wasn't too bad. luckily filter did its job and saved everything else.
hey bats paper filter was real restrictive.....first pull was 290hp A/F mixture was real high. So bad your eyes would water and you would choke breathing. No filter and the A/F ratio was damn near perfect.
I replaced the filter with a K&N and while I am not sure exactly what the A/F ratio is but my pipes and plugs are no longer black and sooty.
I just got the thing back together this past week so another dyno day is coming.
Now to be fair I also did increase the air flow by using a extreme top to help give me more air flow......so its not just apples to apples comparison. sorry forgot about that other addition. so you may be right on that.
It's the way the K&N filters vs a paper that keeps me away from them. A K&N is a loose woven fabric and relies on the oil to catch the dirt (since the element is very open). Due to that, they flow more out of he box and clog up quicker. On cars with mass airflow sensors, the oil can get sucked in and mess with the readings. I actually prefer AMSOIL reusable filters over others.
The whole air filter type bugged me last time the subject popped up,
so many pros and cons on the oiled gauze vs paper I have come to believe that their is no one "best" but rather a best for the application, like in jkippins case he admits it's not an apples to apples test, I would be curious how the thing would run with the paper lower round filter and the extreme top if I was to bet I would believe the difference would be almost undetectable,
I see the k&N with that heavy oil has to have some resistance,
After a while of making my head hurt thinking about it all I decided to go old school and run a fly eye I scored for 10.00
It's like a cousin to the well known triangle air cleaners of edelbrock,
It runs a thick foam filter that has to be rather restrictive, I "might" try to fit an extreme top in there but to start with just the foam, if I was chasing 10ths I would have to start making my head hurt again.
I just got the 77 back on the road after 4 year body off restoration. The engine build was guided by Mako, BK Broiler, and others on this forum and lots of reading and studying. I spared little expense to build what I thought was a good engine. I thought it would be torquey strong motor, and I guess truth is, that its strong, especially when you get it up in the RPM, but I thought it would pin me back in the seat and break tires loose when I pushed the pedal down. Now to be fair, so far, I haven't pushed it past 3500 RPM, so maybe I just need to nail it, but I was hoping for more without doing that.....maybe I should have stroked it to 383 like original plan. Here is the build:
- New GM ZZ4 short block
- AFR 180cc Heads, 65cc Chamber 10:1 Compression (015 gasket)
- GM Factory Hydraulic Roller Lifter system
- Comp Cam Extreme Energy XR270 Roller Cam (218/224, .500 lift, 110 LSA)
- Comp Cam Ultra Pro Magnum Steel Roller Rockers
- Edelbrock RPM intake
- Quadrajet rebuilt by Lars (with the above engine specs)
- DUI Performance HEI Distributor (timed to 35 degrees)
- Stainless Works 1-5/8 inch long tube headers / 2-1/2 mandrel bent exhaust system
- Borg T-10 Rebuilt Original 4-speed transmission with 3:55 differential; New Spec Stage II Clutch
I guess I am looking for any comments. Did I expect too much, or what could be wrong?
What rear gear, what stall? It all has to match. What is the intake duration at .050"? The right gear and the right stall and the magic comes to life. If it's a manual 3000 rpm when the clutch is released should put you in the seat. Take it to the strip and jet for mph, cheaper and funner than a chassis dyno.
Last edited by bluedawg; Jul 12, 2016 at 03:34 AM.
What rear gear, what stall? It all has to match. What is the intake duration at .050"? The right gear and the right stall and the magic comes to life. If it's a manual 3000 rpm when the clutch is released should put you in the seat. Take it to the strip and jet for mph, cheaper and funner than a chassis dyno.
Duration @ 0.050": 218° / 224°
Borg T-10 Rebuilt Original 4-speed transmission with 3:55 differential; New Spec Stage II Clutch
The whole air filter type bugged me last time the subject popped up,
so many pros and cons on the oiled gauze vs paper I have come to believe that their is no one "best" but rather a best for the application, like in jkippins case he admits it's not an apples to apples test, I would be curious how the thing would run with the paper lower round filter and the extreme top if I was to bet I would believe the difference would be almost undetectable,
I see the k&N with that heavy oil has to have some resistance,
After a while of making my head hurt thinking about it all I decided to go old school and run a fly eye I scored for 10.00
It's like a cousin to the well known triangle air cleaners of edelbrock,
It runs a thick foam filter that has to be rather restrictive, I "might" try to fit an extreme top in there but to start with just the foam, if I was chasing 10ths I would have to start making my head hurt again.
Bats,
I don't like any of the filters with foam. I have seen a backfire start them on fire.
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Idle speed increases when you connect the vac advance. (I do remember our conversations. Glad to see its running.)
