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I just replaced the control valve on my 1979. Now the steering wheel points to the left when the car is going straight. The old control valve seemed to be threaded as far as possible onto the relay rod. I threaded the new one on as far as possible. I am having trouble visualizing what will happen to the steering wheel if I loosen the control valve one revolution counter-clockwise. Will the steering wheel move toward the right in which case the wheel would be more centered or will it move toward the left?
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
You have to adjust the tie rods...
If your steering wheel needs to be rotated counterclockwise to bring it back to center the LEFT tie rod assembly will need to be lengthened and the right one shortened.
If your steering wheel needs to be rotated clockwise to bring it back to center the LEFT tie rod assembly will need to shortened and the right one lengthened.
Turn both tubes an equal number of turns so you do not mess up the toe setting.
Turn both tubes an equal number of turns so you do not mess up the toe setting.
That will get the steering wheel on center, but because fractional movements of the adjuster sleeve have an affect on toe, I would not recommend this without planning a trip to the alignment shop. Right now, his steering wheel is off center, but his toe is where it was before the valve replacement. If he were to do this and not affect toe, he needs to buy a lottery ticket.
If your steering wheel needs to be rotated counterclockwise to bring it back to center the LEFT tie rod assembly will need to be lengthened and the right one shortened.
If your steering wheel needs to be rotated clockwise to bring it back to center the LEFT tie rod assembly will need to shortened and the right one lengthened.
Turn both tubes an equal number of turns so you do not mess up the toe setting.
That's all true, HOWEVER, there IS a certain amount of adjustment that's required at the hydraulic assist ram, which is what the OP is referring to. Having said that, I have to apologize for not being able to explain the procedure for doing that adjustment. I did, though, go through that procedure about 20 years ago, on the '79 that my wife owned back then....
That's all true, HOWEVER, there IS a certain amount of adjustment that's required at the hydraulic assist ram, which is what the OP is referring to. Having said that, I have to apologize for not being able to explain the procedure for doing that adjustment. I did, though, go through that procedure about 20 years ago, on the '79 that my wife owned back then....
No, that's not what he's referring to. First, there is no adjustment to the ram. It has a ball stud on one end the attaches to the drag link. The other end has a threaded rod mounting to the frame bracket and is tightened to snug up the bushings. The control valve adjustment, which I believe you are referencing, is only for bias of the assist. The valve threads onto the drag link and if you remove it, you have to count the number of turns it took to take it off. When putting the valve back on the relay rod, you screw it on the same number of turns. Most of the time -but not always, this puts the steering wheel in the same position.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
When removing and replacing (with a new one) the PSCV the gap (.06 to .12) will most likely not be the same and that is why the steering wheel is no longer centered.
See post 16 on how to correct the problem and not disturb the toe.
Wheel now looks straight. I disconnected the control valve and rotated it one turn counter clockwise. When I removed the old one, I didn't count the revolutions as it was turned against the relay rod. Now there is a little gap between the end of the control valve and the relay rod. Not sure why there is a difference between how far the two valves had to be threaded onto the relay rod.
Getting that device screwed back onto the steering link can be a pain. I use a small chisel or a screwdriver blade driven into the gap on the locking collar to take the 'bind' out of that installation. This works to remove and to install it. It is best to count the number of revolutions (to the nearest 1/8 turn) when removing it and turning it back to the same location at installation. That limits the need for resetting the tie rods.
"This could change the set up for cancelling your turn signals". The OP said he needed to make a minor adjustment- from 12:01 or 12:02 back to 12:00. Moving the hub this small amount will not make any noticeable change to the turn signal cancelling mechanism. I have done this three times on my 68 convert to fine tune the centering of the steering wheel. Once after removing the steering column to remove the dash panel, once after replacing the steering gear and once after changing the rag joint on the steering column. Each time required a slight adjustment that was easier working on the top of the car, rather than on a creeper under the car adjusting the tie rods.